Edge Pro Reprofiling: How much time?

They do cut better after lapping them, a new one will cut slower than one that has been lapped or flattened on the Silicone Carbide.

Use a lot of water and not a lot of pressue, they cut better.

I can usually reprofile a 4" blade to like 30 degrees inclusive in less than 20 mins with most steels.
 
ricklee4570 said:
I wouldnt think you need to lap a new course stone. As a matter of fact, I dished the heck out of my course stone reprofiling and never worried about lapping it. If your just trying to remove a lot of metal, it shouldnt matter as much. I have even used it dry with no problem.
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Your right, if the stone is cutting and breaking down properly. The problem here is, that's no longer occurring, which is indicated by the finish he says it's now leaving. He needs to do something to restore it.

Edit to add: You might also think that just by using the stone, you'll wear it enough to "rough it up" and get it to cut again, but this doesn't occur. Once it smooths over, it won't break down fast enough for it to start cutting well again.

cbw
 
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Man, I'm now confused. Should I buy another stone or just buy some SiC? If there was some SiC to be bought here it wouldn't be a problem. I'd need to buy online.
 
singularity35 said:
Man, I'm now confused. Should I buy another stone or just buy some SiC? If there was some SiC to be bought here it wouldn't be a problem. I'd need to buy online.
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I would buy the Silicone Carbide, it's cheap and lasts forever. :thumbup:

You will need it to flatten the stones anyway. :D
 
cbwx34 said:
Your right, if the stone is cutting and breaking down properly. The problem here is, that's no longer occurring, which is indicated by the finish he says it's now leaving. He needs to do something to restore it.

Edit to add: You might also think that just by using the stone, you'll wear it enough to "rough it up" and get it to cut again, but this doesn't occur. Once it smooths over, it won't break down fast enough for it to start cutting well again.

cbw
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That is exactly what I thought, that by using it, it would roughen up.

Thanks for the info!
 
stitchawl said:
A lot of EdgePro users use stones other than those sold by the company. There are lots of diamond stones that will fit, plenty of smaller water stones, etc. I had some nice Japanese water stones cut by a local lapidary shop into pieces that will fit on an EdgePro blank. I also had some cut twice as wide to use when doing large blades. Don't feel constrained to use only EdgePro stones. There are plenty of other choices and the device itself still does its sweet job of producing perfect edges. Just think outside the box. Use the tool. Don't let it use you!! :thumbup:
Stitchawl
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Might be a dumb question, but if you are replacing a EP stone with something else, how do you attach the new one to the metal plate? Also, do you have to buy a new blank plate, or do you somehow remove the EP stone from its plate and then reuse that one?
 
blacktails said:
Might be a dumb question, but if you are replacing a EP stone with something else, how do you attach the new one to the metal plate? Also, do you have to buy a new blank plate, or do you somehow remove the EP stone from its plate and then reuse that one?
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like they do at the factory, glue it. epoxy must be fine.

btw i'm glad i found this post as i have the same problem than the OP.

both my 120 and 220 stone just don't cut period. i've tried to lap them with XXC, 80 grit SIC paper with no results.

both stones provide a shinier finish than the 320 and 600 grit stone. my guess is that they don't wear so don't expose new abrasives no matter how much water i use, and how i lap it.
 
blacktails said:
Might be a dumb question, but if you are replacing a EP stone with something else, how do you attach the new one to the metal plate? Also, do you have to buy a new blank plate, or do you somehow remove the EP stone from its plate and then reuse that one?
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I use ordinary contact cement. Spread it thin on both surfaces, let it dry for 15 minutes, and press together. You could buy new stone blanks, or you could take a piece of aluminum and cut them yourself. It's not rocket science. All you need is a ruler, a hacksaw, and 15 minutes time. Another knife nut made a bunch of them for me, some of them wider than the originals so I could mount wider stones securely. If your stones are different thicknesses, just use a Sharpie to match the angles to the blade edge. Very easy stuff...

You can use all sorts of stones from different grits to different sizes to different abrasives. No need to be locked into one rigid way of thinking.

Stitchawl
 
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singularity35 said:
I can only dream. :D
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Dream about this... If your stone isn't cutting the way you need it to, and you don't want to wait for a mail order shipment, use some rubber cement to glue a piece of wet/dry sandpaper to the surface of the stone. That way you will get the accuracy of the EdgePro combined with the cutting action of coarser grits. 80 grit wet/dry does a damn fine job of re-profiling, while 2,000 grit wet/dry does wonders for finishing an edge. As I said in another post; use the tool. Don't let it use you. :thumbup:


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
Dream about this... If your stone isn't cutting the way you need it to, and you don't want to wait for a mail order shipment, use some rubber cement to glue a piece of wet/dry sandpaper to the surface of the stone. That way you will get the accuracy of the EdgePro combined with the cutting action of coarser grits. 80 grit wet/dry does a damn fine job of re-profiling, while 2,000 grit wet/dry does wonders for finishing an edge. As I said in another post; use the tool. Don't let it use you. :thumbup:


Stitchawl
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Excellent advice, thanks!
 
ricklee4570 said:
Excellent advice, thanks!
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Common sense. We all know that wet/dry sandpaper works very well. It just doesn't last as long as stones. We all know that the EdgePro device works very well and produces constant angles. We also know that 80-100 grit cuts faster than 120 grit, especially a 120 stone that isn't working. Why not combine the two for the best of all worlds? Do the re-profile with paper, then switch to the 220 stone (if one wants to, or 220 wet/dry paper... why not?) and keep right on going. After all, it's that final perfectly angled edge we're after. Doesn't matter what cuts it. :)


Stitchawl
 
pwet said:
like they do at the factory, glue it. epoxy must be fine.

btw i'm glad i found this post as i have the same problem than the OP.

both my 120 and 220 stone just don't cut period. i've tried to lap them with XXC, 80 grit SIC paper with no results.

both stones provide a shinier finish than the 320 and 600 grit stone. my guess is that they don't wear so don't expose new abrasives no matter how much water i use, and how i lap it.
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Now that you mention it, my 220 barely cuts at all. The 320 cuts faster. You can feel it with how sticky it feels when cutting.
 
exactely, all the brownish colored wear pretty fast and cut the same way, my 320, 600 and 1000 (or 1200 not sure to remember) are pretty well worn out, the 120 and 220 are way thicker, and i've spent quite a lot of time and sweat trying to lap them with quite a lot of different abrasive including concrete blocks, 80 SiC paper, 40 grit emery cloth, dmt XXC ..... no way, they just don't wear.

recently ankerson advised me to keep the stone in a water bucket, they've been soaking for 2 weeks with no difference.


i'm a bit lost, i've ordered both the fine and E-fine diamond plates from ben dale, not received yet, if it's not fast enough i'll buy a DMT diasharp at the size, probably a XC.
 
pwet said:
exactely, all the brownish colored wear pretty fast and cut the same way, my 320, 600 and 1000 (or 1200 not sure to remember) are pretty well worn out, the 120 and 220 are way thicker, and i've spent quite a lot of time and sweat trying to lap them with quite a lot of different abrasive including concrete blocks, 80 SiC paper, 40 grit emery cloth, dmt XXC ..... no way, they just don't wear.

recently ankerson advised me to keep the stone in a water bucket, they've been soaking for 2 weeks with no difference.


i'm a bit lost, i've ordered both the fine and E-fine diamond plates from ben dale, not received yet, if it's not fast enough i'll buy a DMT diasharp at the size, probably a XC.
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I've been advised to lap the stones with SiC grit powder that sells for something like $3 dollars. I am ordering some online but it will take about 2 weeks for it to get here. You may be able to buy some immediately. If so let me know how it turns out.

I also tried stichawl's suggestion. I glued some 80 grit sandpaper on the tape blanks. I was able to reprofile a largish kitchen knife in a couple of hours.

BTW, thanks stichawl. I may forego buying another 120 stone and use low grit wet/dry. I may have to buy more blanks since the wet/dry wears out fast.
 
singularity35 said:
I've been advised to lap the stones with SiC grit powder that sells for something like $3 dollars. I am ordering some online but it will take about 2 weeks for it to get here. You may be able to buy some immediately. If so let me know how it turns out.

I also tried stichawl's suggestion. I glued some 80 grit sandpaper on the tape blanks. I was able to reprofile a largish kitchen knife in a couple of hours.

BTW, thanks stichawl. I may forego buying another 120 stone and use low grit wet/dry. I may have to buy more blanks since the wet/dry wears out fast.
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what grit is the powder ?

if it's 80 grit i wonder how free abrasive would cut a world better than wet dry paper of the same grit. but why not ...

i use high quality SiC paper, that's not much different than free SiC powder.


EDIT: sorry unlike i said previously the other paper i tried isn't corindon but carburandum. the SiC was not 40 and 80 but 60 and 80, i just checked.
 
pwet said:
what grit is the powder ?

if it's 80 grit i wonder how free abrasive would cut a world better than wet dry paper of the same grit. but why not ...

i use high quality SiC paper, that's not much different than free SiC powder.


EDIT: sorry unlike i said previously the other paper i tried isn't corindon but carburandum. the SiC was not 40 and 80 but 60 and 80, i just checked.
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I think Ben mentions the SiC at 60 grit in the edge pro video. Ben did say sandpaper would just make it worse since it doesn't break the surface of the stone. Free abrasive on glass is supposed to do it. I think it was cbwx34 who tried the free abrasive and got his stone cutting well.

I do think that Ben has some issues with his newer stones. Even if a new stone won't cut as well as a lapped stone, it should at least cut like it's grit size. Ben should address this issues with his stones but he doesn't seem to want to face that there is a problem.

The stone above is the older 120 stone that never had any issues. The lower one seems to be the one with issues.

edgeporstone120.jpg
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Can anyone specifically recommend some good replacement stones that will work well with the EP Apex, and where to get them? Thanks.
 
singularity35 said:
I also tried stichawl's suggestion. I glued some 80 grit sandpaper on the tape blanks. I was able to reprofile a largish kitchen knife in a couple of hours.

BTW, thanks stichawl. I may forego buying another 120 stone and use low grit wet/dry. I may have to buy more blanks since the wet/dry wears out fast.
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Glad to help. Use what works for you. Get rid of what doesn't. That's the real key to effective sharpening. I've got drawers FULL of stuff that doesn't work for me! The EdgePro is a fantastic sharpening device, but sometimes requires personal modifications. Don't be afraid to experiment.


Stitchawl
 
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