Edge Pro Sharpener?

Mitchell Knives

Mitchell Knives

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Hi, have some questions for you guys:

One of the stones on my trusty Sharpmaker broke a couple of days ago (2nd time this has happened!), and got me thinking about other sharpening systems. (I can't do free hand sharpening.) While the Sharpmaker is an excellent product, and probably the best for sharpening serrated edges, it does have some limitations. I can get a nice sharp edge with the system, but not that elusive "crazy sharp" edge that will scare hair off your arm. Removing large amount of metal is very slow with the Sharpmaker (reprofiling, etc), and I have rounded off the points on more than a few knives. So, I'm looking for something better and more versitile.

I've been looking at the Edge Pro system, and it seems like a pretty good setup. Apparently you can sharpen at any angle you wish and even polish the edge. A couple of questions:

1. Has anyone ever used the Edge Pro system?

2. Is it easy to use and produce an insanely sharp edge?

3. Is this really the best sharpener around? I want to be able to get an edge that is even sharper than my best Spyderco factory sharpened knife.

The number of knives in my collection is starting to increase, and I want a high quality sharpener that will last forever and produce great results. I want this to be the last sharpener I ever buy...Something that I would not be afraid to sharpen expensive custom knives with later down the road.

4. Should I go for the Pro model or the Apex model? I know the Pro is all metal and has more accesories and stones. I don't mind spending the extra money if the Pro is really a better system...as I said, this will be the last sharpener I buy.

Thanks Guys
 
Try doing a search. This has been covered numerous times, and you will find the answers to your questions a lot quicker than waiting for people to respond to this.

BTW, how did you break two of your sharpmaker stones? I have dropped mine on concrete, and the only thing that happened was the very corner of the tip chipped. I can't see one breaking with normal use. If you drop the stones that come with the Edge Pro, they will break too. As far as the speed of reprofiling, they sell a diamond stone for the Sharpmaker that is used for that purpose, and they also sell an ultra fine stone, which coupled with some good stropping on leather charged with CRO2 will polish the edge very nicely. Overall the Edge pro is a good system, but it does have a learning curve to it. You will need to practice on some cheaper knives. You also will need to tape your blades to prevent them from getting scratched from the slurry that forms under the blade from sharpening. This slurry is made up of the water, ground metal, and ground stone. This will scratch a blade some, and is prevented by taping your blade. Regarding the Apex or Pro model (which should you get) question, the apex will do everything that the pro model will. This was covered very recently actually (within the last week or so). The pro is designed for very frequent sharpening, like needed in restaraunts, meat shops, or knifemakers. The apex will do just fine for routine sharpening. Most people will use the Edge Pro to get their edge the way they want it, then just use the Sharpmaker to keep the edge in good shape. It is much easier to keep an edge sharp than it is to resharpen a very dull knife. Like I said, do a search and type in Edge Pro, you will find a lot of info.

Mike
 
EZ expect a flood of replies, lots here have one and swear by it.

I have one, an Apex, with the stone upgrade, I love it like most who have used it for a while.

There is a learning curve, but with a little practice, and help from Edgepro,(they're great with Customer Service), and a little patience, you'll be poppin' hair, an scarrin' the the rest of the knives in the neighborhood.:D

If you get one remember, if you think your not pushin' hard enough, your probably pushin' too hard, also it's real easy to adapt diamond hones to the Edgepro.
 
Medic:

Will do a search for more info. Keep forgetting they turned the search function back on.


I had one Sharpmaker stone develop a nick in the edge, and that is where it broke when I was trying to sharpen a larger knife. I'm going to call Spyderco about this and see if they will replace it for free.

The other stone broke when it slipped out of my hand and fell about 4 inches onto the table. It was really odd, I don't think that should have broken it. It broke right in the center which leads me to believe that there was also a nick in this stone.
 
Edge Pro Apex is very good. takes a little to get used to it but it does produce sharp edges that I could never get with my Sharpmaker.

S.
 
You mention that you want an edge at least as good or better that your factory Spyderco edges. Sal has mentioned that Spyderco sharpens their factory edges with a a relatively coarse edge.

The Edge Pro allows you to put on a very fine edge but this may be misleading depending on the sort of cutting you do. I suggest that the Edge Pro with the coarse stone is comparable to the Spyderco factory edge.

In any case, the Edge pro is THE sharpening tool, particularly if you are not achieveing the desired result free hand. I am also free-hand challenged and have found the Edge Pro to be the best thing since sliced bread. Not to belabor the metaphor, I slice bread with a non-serrated knife sharpened with a coarse stone on the Edge Pro and have had excellant results.

Bindlestiff
 
I have a question. I just ordered an Edge Pro Apex and stone upgrade kit. The Edge Pro is supposedly marked at 15, 18, 21, 24 degrees and my sharpmaker is at 20. So for those of you that use your sharpmaker for touchups, what angle do you use on the edgepro?? A tick under 21 to try and match it, or do you use 18 and essentially double bevel when using the sharpmaker for touchups?
 
It is important to note that the angle formed by the blade subtracts from the angle set by the Edge Pro. The blade wedge can be of the order of 5 degrees. So if you set the Edge pro to 18, you will actually be creating an edge bevel of something less than that, say 15 or 16.

I set my Edge Pro to about 15 and for touch-ups I use a Sharpmaker with the stones in the 15 degree position. (30 degrees in Spyderco speak) The Edg Pro gives a very nice profile and the Sharpmaker gives a nice microbevel.

Works for me. YMMV
 
The Edge Pro is a wonderful sharpener but I never see this posted about them. To achieve the ultimate results with it, it must be used OFF-HAND! Some folks have trouble with this and for some reason, it's never mentioned.
 
I'm thinking of getting one of these too, but more and more of my blades are coming with a convex edge and I like it. I just haven't got the hang of shapening it just yet. I guess that thye edgepro would be of little use on the convex edges. Yes?
 
Any type of sharpening "system" i.e. crock sticks, clamp guides, etc... will remove the convex edge. The only way to do convex, to my knowledge is by hand.

You could, with the edge pro, set up a triple bevel and maintain a quasi-convex edge. For example, set primary at 15 secondary at 18 and final edge at 21 degrees.

what do you mean by off-hand? Can you describe, please
Click to expand...

The knife is not clamped down, so one hand has to hold the knife while the other moves handle of the sharpener to grind the stone across the blade, and when you reverse the knife to sharpen the opposite side of the blade, your strong hand holds the knife and off-hand does the grinding. (maybe you could try crossing your arms?) But by most accounts this is not a big problem.
 
Tom,
I apologize and should have said "weak hand". I mean that the Edge Pro needs to mastered with BOTH right and left hands. When you finish one side, it needs to be flipped and stroked, (for maximum results), with your "weak hand" or the opposite of whatever hand you regularly use. Some folks just can't do it.
 
Thanks for the info. This still looks like it needs to go on my needs list :)
Tom
 
I can't really add much except to say that the Edge-Pro is a great system, and I've been very happy with mine. You'll need to practice to get really great results, but the learning curve isn't bad if you apply yourself and Ben Dale is very helpful if you have trouble or need advice. The only quibble I have with it is that it can be tough to do really small blades, like the Kershaw Chive. That may be an issue with technique though. Sometime soon I'll be recieving a Pro Combo hone from Handamerican; once I get it I'll be posting a comparitive review.
 
Decon,
Naw, a convex edge can be aquired by the Edge Pro or any other "set-angle" sharpener. Use diamond hones, (stones), if you can because they make short work of things. Just start at a 20/25 degree angle and use a coarse stone. Start on one side and hone the blade up and back and however long it takes until you get a FULL LENGTH burr on the OPPOSITE side. It's easy to feel or you can SEE it! Then flip the blade over and do the same until the complete burr is on the side you started with. This will also reprofile the edge. Then take a FINE diamond stone, (hone), and start with the first side and REMEMBER which side this is! COUNT strokes here! I usually do 20 strokes a side. Then flip it and do 20 strokes on the opposite side. Do this about 3 times on each side. Flip it again and stroke it GENTLY on the original side you started with ONCE to get rid of any burr that is left. Check it for sharpness and if it's not up to your expectations, repeat the process once more.

THEN, set your LAST angle at 25/30 degrees and skip the coarse stone because you've already reprofiled the edge. Count strokes on each side again and follow the above until you get a super sharp edge at this last angle. You can also end the process by swiping this edge on a SMOOTH steel, pencil tablet back or just your jeans to get rid of any burr that's left. You can also "polish" this edge but I've found that a "toothy" fine edge works the best for all around cutting. You will end up with a sturdy convex edge and it will be easier to sharpen the next time because you'll only have to do it at the last angle you've chosen when the edge starts to drag a little.

I know this sounds like a hassle but it's easier than I've described here but it DOES take about an 30 minutes to an hour, (or longer!), depending on blade steel. It's true that if you practice a lot results will be quicker with "free style" sharpening but some folks just can't get the hang of it. Some day I'll get a "slack belt" set-up and that takes ALL the hassle out of sharpening once you've adapted to it! :)
 
I am repeating this since nobody has answered me yet.

Originally posted by Dcon67
I have a question. I just ordered an Edge Pro Apex and stone upgrade kit. The Edge Pro is supposedly marked at 15, 18, 21, 24 degrees and my sharpmaker is at 20. So for those of you that use your sharpmaker for touchups, what angle do you use on the edgepro?? A tick under 21 to try and match it, or do you use 18 and essentially double bevel when using the sharpmaker for touchups?
Click to expand...

Gene, you just described how to double bevel an edge, its not the same as a convex edge. A convex edge is usually formed by sharpening with a slack belt and is a curved bevel, it can't be done on a hard surface like a stone if your keeping the blade at a consistant angle.
 
You are correct. It is not a "curved" or convex edge. My mistake. It is however an edge though that has worked well for me, is strong and a pretty good slicer.
 
The only way to make sure you match angles is to use a Sharpie to mark the edge of the knife , than keep adjusting the angle till you wear off the marker, that's your angle. It actually sounds harder than it really is. I can find the angle of any edge in a couple of minutes.
 
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