Recommendation? Edge pro stones won't cut

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Bo-dacious

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Hey guys, I've been using my edge pro for about a month now and my 600 grit 1/2" stone isn't cutting. It barely makes a sound when i use it and it doesn't give me burrs. I leveled it and it still doesn't cut very well. It makes the stone shiny so I guess it cuts a little but I'm still not getting a burr. I tried raising the angle a couple times to see if the problem was the angle but that didn't fix it. I tried doing 400 grit which gave me a burr, then I went to 1000 grit and I'm not really getting a burr again but that may be because the gap between this and the previous grit is too big. Does anybody know what I should do? Is the problem that it doesn't cut or is it something else?

Thanks guys,

Bo
 
Bo-dacious said:
It makes the stone shiny so I guess it cuts a little
Click to expand...
Could you restate that. I'm not sure what you mean.

Is the freshly flattened stone getting black swarf on it when you use it to sharpen your knife ?
Like this :
PS: are you flattening / cleaning / conditioning the stone with at least a diamond stone and preferably an Atoma 140 ?
IMG_4770.jpg
IMG_5215.jpg
The above photos are old and not taken to show swarf
This one shows a lot of swarf
IMG_4379.jpg
 
What steel are you sharpening?
 
I should state that I'm getting a burr on the other side of the knife.

Wow: yes I'm getting swarf and I'm levelling with the silicon carbide ep sells.

Blues: the knife is just Aus 8 so I don't know why it's so hard.

Thanks,

Bo
 
Wowbagger: I mean the scratches are smaller it seems so it gets shinier. Meaning it is doing something.

Bo
 
Are the bevels very uneven or relatively even in width and angle?
 
You need to check how you're holding the knife on the blade table. When I first started using my Edge-Pro, my right hand was holding the blade slightly different from the left hand.

AUS 8 cuts like butter. you should be able to get it sharp very quickly. If you can't, check your procedures.

Or, get a 1000 grit Shapton glass and go straight to that from your 400.
 
Blues: the edge that I'm having trouble with is wider.

Ben: the way I'm holding it causes it to not get a burr?
So I can go from 400 to the shapton glass 1000 but not the 1000 that comes with the apex 4 kit? Howcome?

Thanks,

Bo
 
The Shapton Glass cuts more aggressively.

If one side is wider, you have an uneven bevel. You may need to go back to a coarse grit or diamond and reprofile for an even bevel on both sides.
 
What knife is this ? Brand and model.
If the blade is ground so the edge is off center of the spine that could give a wider bevel on one side when sharpening to the same angle on each side.
In any case (you probably already know this) you need to use sharpy and be sure you are right on the edge with the stone on both sides. In other words set of the EP to a steep enough angle to hit the apex when sharpening on both sides of the knife. Set up that way you would probably get a bur even if you were using a sheet of glass for a stone just from the burnishing effect.

Also you are aware you need to compensate for different stone thicknesses by adjusting the rod guide on the vertical post . . . right ? Do this by using sharpy or the drill stop collar.
 
When I use the lower grits...320 and 400, I get a lot of slurry...As I progress up to 600, 1000, and upwards, the burr becomes much smaller and is much harder to detect. IMO, this is to be expected.
 
Ben: ooh okay, but I set the angle the same. Does that mean I should do more passes on the skinnier side?

Wow: this is a blade tech riptide karambit (I'm trying to learn on Karambits).
Okay, i will even the edges out next time and yes I know about the black marker.
Yes, I'm ordering a drill stop clear collar on my next order and making due for now by using Sharpie and changing the angle when needed.

Sonny: yes, I am getting less swarf but still getting some.

So guys, could the wider bevel mixed with the fact that my higher grit stones aren't cutting a lot be the reason I'm not getting a burr on 600 or 1000?

Thanks guys,

Bo

P. S. I tried to just finish the knife as if I got a burr, just Incase I got a burr I couldn't feel. I got it sharper to the point where it just push cuts paper. Does that tell you anything?
 
The Karambit curve is at lest part of your problem. Test your technique on straight or bellied blades to see if you are doing everything right.

I was wondering why you had the 1/2" stone. Well at least you are doing what you can there by using a narrower stone. The only place on the stone that is cutting is going to be near and at the corners of the stone.
 
Wow: I was just thinking about that. Should I round the corners of the stone with a piece of glass and SiC so it cuts more evenly across the stone? Won't it remove more material and be more likely to form a burr?

Thanks,

Bo
 
a karambit is hard to sharpen with any flat stone ... and the smaller the krambit the more difficult ... a rod works much better IMHO ...

I have never tried to sharpen a karambit with a flat stone ... I use a round rpund or the Artic Fox Scythe stone for the rounded edges ...

the uneven bevel will also throw you off at times you may need to use the sharpie and measure the angles and get them evened out before getting a good crisp edge.
 
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I just remembered something. I think I remember trying the 600 grit narrow stone on a gentle recurve knife. I couldn't get a burr there either. (I don't stop until I solve the problem. Luckily the recurve was gentle enough that the 1" stones worked) So it may not be the curve that's the problem. Maybe. What do you guys think?

Bo
 
A lot of karambits I have seen aren't good blades at all. They tend to be really thick and have quite obtuse edge bevels. Some seem to be ground a little funny also. It seems to be a challenging blade shape. Or maybe I've just seen a lot of bad karambits.

I did a little training with the man that popularized the karambit in the US. I never asked him about sharpening them.

I think you are making things hard on yourself using a karambit while you are still learning your tools. I think I said the same thing the last time you were having some trouble with one or more karambits. I think that was on a sharpmaker maybe?

Brian.
 
Brian: yes, it was on the sharpmaker. Actually this is one of the same blades I was trying on the sharpmaker. I still havent been able to get it sharp. On the SM I couldn't get a burr at all. On the ep I can get a burr at 220 and 400 but not at a higher grit. I got it to push cut paper but it tears as it cuts. *Do you think that's okay for a potential customer or should it be sharper? I asked the guy that sharpens knives in town if every blade should cut paper and be said absolutely not. He went on to explain that it depends on the blade and the steel. What do you think?

Bo

Ps. I have got different Karambits sharp on both the sharp maker and the edge pro. Just not this one.
 
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