Edge Pro

[oldrifleman]

Ok, when using the polishing tapes, do you use them like a sharpening stone and cut into the edge, or like a strop and pull away from the edge? Steven

 

[Scott Dog]

Yeah use them like the sharpening stone. I reprofiled my large sebbie with the edge pro and it was a lot of work. But once done the edge is easy to maintain.

 

[bbcmat]

For Cliff:

Lisa

Table = 1.830" no clip no tape
file mark - 18 deg 180 stone
blue - 19 deg 220 stone
20 deg - green DMT

(I have a file mark as ref between 17 black and 19 blue graduations - also I have a red/green DMT hone attached to a blank stone plate which has an overall thickness that req raising the stone to the est 20 deg mark, though this only puts the true stone angle at the prev 19 degree wear pattern)

I regularly tune this one up at the sink with DMT hand hone - this setup puts the hand hone angle almost exactly where the EdgePro angle is if I start my sweep with the handle of the hone resting on handle of the knife. On the EdgePro I finish with a fresh DMT stone because it is sharp enough to cut the rubbery burr but leaves a bit of tooth to encourage some slice in it's use.

Jazz

Table = 1.855" with clip and tape
CA = 17 deg black MF / 320 / 600
Finish 600 wet

(this knife comes back to me with edge roll at the tip, but in general the blade shows impact marks but no working edge roll down the blade. She feels it cuts very well, so no value in tightening up the angle)

Mom

Table = 1.855 with tape and clip
21 deg black with MF / 180 / 220
c-rod to finish.

This knife comes back to me beat - So I just leave the stone arm on 21 deg, rip off the damage with my worn MF stone, reset the bevel with my thicker 180 stone, and wipe off the burr with my thinner 220 stone. I then make 3 or 4 alternating strokes on my ceramic rod to put a microbevel on the edge, referencing the top of the blade resting on the wooden handle. I havn't calculated what that angle is, but it does put a microbevel on the blade that is visible under good light. The material is too soft to take whatever she does to it.

I will stress the edge between stones (and before the final few light passes) by cutting a roll of printer paper in a slicing manner, delibrately putting lateral force on the edge. These knives average 65th" at the spine and flat taper to 12th" at the top of the bevel, and have a Santuko shape.

Out of box they were 17 deg per side. They are slightly harder than wood but with the same corrosion resistance.

MAT

 

[cbwx34]

Ok, when using the polishing tapes, do you use them like a sharpening stone and cut into the edge, or like a strop and pull away from the edge? Steven

If you're just starting with the EP, I'd use away from the edge. Once you get used to a light touch, and how it works... edge into. (You'll go thru less tapes).

Also make sure you clean your edge up before the tapes, and not use them for burr removal.

cbw

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I will stress the edge between stones (and before the final few light passes) by cutting a roll of printer paper in a slicing manner, delibrately putting lateral force on the edge.

That's a nice idea. I was never found of cracking the burr off as is commonly recommended, but some light use like that can enhance its removal in subsequent sharpening. Why no multi-bevels on the second two knives. Whave you tried a small additional bevel to minimize roll?

-Cliff

 

[bbcmat]

I haven't used a micro-bevel because:

1) lazy
2) 17-21 deg/side is where I put most micro-bevels anyways
3) when I see a $9 knife with consistant impact damage along it's edge - I don't invest too much effort in optimizing it's plate cutting ability (LOL - see #1)
4) I usually get an handful of Whilshire knives in the same bag of blades to sharpen, so throughput becomes important.
5) I will next time, just cause it makes sense to do so and I have just run out of excuses.

Just a side note to EdgePro use - a new user will hit the 80% efficiency mark very quickly with this device - clean sharp edges that look good and are consistant from heel to tip. From that point, it's all about the burr.

Sharpening junk knives forces you into techniques to minimize burrs during the process. You WILL look at steels differently once a variety has passed under your stones - junk is junk but a thin junk edge with an appropriate amount of tooth and no burr will shock you with it's ability to cut non-abrasive materials. (kitchen work). Anybody can sharpen good steel.

IMO

MAT

 

[Cliff Stamp]

That is interesting, in general micro-beveling decreases sharpening time significantly. Why does it take longer / more work with the Edge Pro.

I know what you mean about the damage, many of the kitchen knives I sharpen are mangled. Usually this is because they are just thrown in th sink to wash or banged around in a drawer full of other knives and of course will cut up food right on plates.

-Cliff

 

[bbcmat]

Cliff -

These blades are so soft that I just hit the main bevel with the coarser stone, removing whatever rolled/impacted mat'l that is there. (including the microbevel) - so the resharping process wouldn't be helped by a microbevel. Keep in mind, though - the mat'l is only 12thou thick at the top of the bevel - so it just disappears with a MF or 180 stone.

I am going to try finishing with a +5 degree microbevel - if that reduces the damage, then I may not need to reset the primary bevel, and then it will save a few swipes of the stone - or - it will stay in service for a longer period of time and that will save a bit of time.

I seen the edge dented (reflecting light) in about 20 places after press cutting a semi-frozen banana loaf that had crushed nuts in it - LOL - but the grip / shape / lightness / overall length make it user favourite.

MAT

 

[Cliff Stamp]

These blades are so soft that I just hit the main bevel with the coarser stone, removing whatever rolled/impacted mat'l that is there. (including the microbevel) - so the resharping process wouldn't be helped by a microbevel.

Yes, I do the same, I was wondering more about then sharpening it with additional bevels. But since the steel is so soft it seems like the time again would be of no consequence as it works so easily anyway.

I seen the edge dented (reflecting light) in about 20 places after press cutting a semi-frozen banana loaf that had crushed nuts in it - LOL - but the grip / shape / lightness / overall length make it user favourite.

That's pretty soft. Sounds like someone forgot to harden the blade.

-Cliff

 

[mdarby]

I have done many edge retention comparisons freehand in the last few months which have been posted. The initial sharpness isn't lower than obtained by jig sharpening on the sharpmaker, I would never have switched otherwise. As a minimum I accept edges that push cut newsprint at about an inch and I consider that a bit sloppy and optimal is 2-3". If you go back even a year or two then I was just looking for a clean shave with any push cutting ability.

Cliff,

Could you please clarify how you test sharpness by push cutting newspaper? How do you hold the newsprint, the knife, how do you make the cut? What does the reference to 1" refer to?

Many thanks,
Michael

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Could you please clarify how you test sharpness by push cutting newspaper?

Take a piece of paper and pinch it between the thumb and index finger. Push the blade into the paper at a 90 degree angle in regards to both left/right and up/down orientations. The distance between the point where a cut can be made and where the paper is held between the fingers is a direct measure of the sharpness.

-Cliff