edge problems

Wider than the primary edge? You mean a higher angle? Cause you could realistically make a 10o inclusive edge and then put a 40o micro if you wanted. Extreme I know but it's an example. So all a micro bevel is doing is making the edge itself more obtuse. I could do that on any primary. I really don't think my edges are too obtuse. I have no problem gliding them through magazine paper effortlessly or plucking hairs off my skin. My bevels are reasonably wide. Maybe 1.5 mm. I know with the convex it gives a rounder edge but I use very little pressure and I run it close to the top wheel. Only knife a cant get a nice sharp edge on is my opinel no 6 carbon. I've never been able to get an edge that'll glid through paper though but it still cuts well
 
V edge = a isosceles triangle. leg=1.5mm, base=thickness at edge shoulder. When base:
a) 0.5mm: angle ~19.2o
b) 1.0mm: angle ~38.9o
With Mora (2.5mm spine) saber grind, I think edge shoulder some where between 0.5 to 1.0mm.

Adding a perfect convex/curve, you'll end up with a larger angle than anticipated. David's suggestion, about obtuse angle, may worth a second look.
 
Oh ya a mora is thick. I was talking about my edc. .15 behind the edge. Not sure about the kitchen knives but they're pretty thin. My mora I zero ground. Removed the secondary from factory
 
That's why I went higher than factory edges to take into account the convexing and because convex is supposed to be stronger. I just need to find a way to remove the wire and my results should be better. May have to look into a felt block or belt or both
 
Vicv said:
That's why I went higher than factory edges to take into account the convexing and because convex is supposed to be stronger. I just need to find a way to remove the wire and my results should be better. May have to look into a felt block or belt or both
Click to expand...

Earlier I de-burr/wire my zdp 18o/26o blade by gently put/cut the edge perpendicular to a spyderco uf ceramic stone, while using very light pressure to tilt the blade from 90o to 20o a side (yes, higher than my micro bevel 13o per side), transition to edge leading-stroke. then repeat for the other side. For most of the time, I just edge lead into a dmt diasharp xxf at slightly higher angle. I use uf ceramic because 1) diamond is too aggressive 2) some burnishing actually (guessing here) strenghten the edge.

I had more failures deburr by cut into hard-felt/cork/end-grain-wood/plain-leather-stop than successes.
 
Ok. I tried with a 6000 king last night and I didn't raise the angle much higher. I was using it dry but it was actually cutting into the stone and still didn't remove the wire. I don't have a sharp maker and my lansky also didn't work
 
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