edge thickness before Ht

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by Jax knives, Jun 21, 2020.

  1. Jax knives

    Jax knives

    May 25, 2020
    I've down plenty search's /reading maybe even too much to the point I have educated myself and then confused myself to all the info. lol

    I presently working with 1080 and 1095 steel in .125. , .187 and .250. thickness. I have got my primary bevels to a finished point (320 grit) and my secondary bevels at .040 or thickness of a dime before heat treat.

    1) After heat treat and decarb I will have to regrind my entire bevel and achieve my final secondary(edge) bevel thickness before sharpening.

    2) I'm not sure at what grit I regrind with after heat treat and at what final edge thickness im wanting to achieve. All my knives are a combination of (3)each EDC, Hunting, tactical, survival/woodsmen.

    3) I'm not real sure at what my secondary bevels should be for each style of knife and I was anticipating using a 20° for all of them.

    4) I'm also looking for what belt grit or stone grit procedure for final sharpening for just a good toothy paper cutting sharp and I'm not sure if any need to be razor/hair cutting sharp.
  2. Justin Schmidt

    Justin Schmidt Schmidt Forge

    Feb 18, 2016
    For the .125 thick stuff grind post heat treat. The thicker stuff go down to .020 take it to a 220grit finish. Post heat treat clean up with 220 grit then go up grits from there
  3. argel55


    Oct 30, 2005
    Think dime thickness.
  4. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    A dime is over .050" thick. That is almost twice the thickness you want at HT (unless you have the ability to grind while hardened). Around .030" at the edge is a good rule of thumb for carbon steel blades. It is best to have the surface at 220 grit minimum for HT.

    On a different note, most new makers make blades way too thick. .250" is good for a belt axe or a giant cleaver, but too thick for any normal knife. .125" is about the thickest a normal knife ever needs to be ... and .060" is a good thickness for most hunting/fishing knives. Measure the thickness of some commercial blades to verify this to yourself.
    Justin Schmidt likes this.
  5. Scaniaman


    Jun 15, 2012

  6. Jax knives

    Jax knives

    May 25, 2020
    Truth is the steel supplier shipped the .250 stuff by accident so I decided to keep it and make some survival/choppers type knives out of it rather than the hassle of returning it.

    I meant to entitle this thread thickness "after" heat treat but but I messed that up too. lol

    I'm looking for secondary edge thickness after heat treat before sharpening and some of the grinding/grit procedures during that process.

    Ive read plenty but so many different opinions it's hard to pick a base/middle
  7. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    Post HT the edge should be about .005" before sharpening as a general rule. Rough use blades can be a tad thicker and fillet/kitchen blades can be near zero.
    Justin Schmidt likes this.
  8. Josh K

    Josh K Pirate

    Sep 29, 2008
    You're speaking about stock thickness/max thickness of the blade itself? (If there's a better term please correct me, I'm new)
  9. ren01228


    Apr 30, 2018
    Don’t want to derail this thread but I don’t think this question justifies starting a new one so I figure I’ll ask here.

    I know AEB-L ideally should be ground entirely after HT since it’s prone to warping. What about Nitro-V? Can I treat this like most other stainless steels and grind the edge to near final thickness (~.010”) pre-HT? I’ve tried looking it up but haven’t really found a definitive answer. Thanks.
  10. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    I would grind Nitro-V after HT unless the blade is thick. If doing it pre-HT, I would leave a pretty thick edge.
    ren01228 likes this.
  11. JTknives

    JTknives Blade Heat Treating www.jarodtodd.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Jun 11, 2006
    I would say 80% of all the blades we get for heat treating are not ground. We do get aebl that is ground and unless you are perfect with your grind so everything is even it warps. Don’t get me wrong most aebl warps no mater what a little but we have had some nasty warps on ground blades. Just a personal opinion I feel like blades that are not ground get a better quench between plates then blades that have edge bevels.
    Storm W, Justin Schmidt and ren01228 like this.

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