I'm grinding some small test blades (@ 1/2" x 2") out of .110" W2 from Aldo and using a 10 - 15 degree saber grind. These are test pieces to practice my quench technique. I'm going to try interrupted quenching. I'll be using water to start and switch to canola if my first couple of test pieces fail. I'll try 1450 F as my austenizing temperature. What is the minimum edge thickness that I should use?
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Edge thickness
- Thread starter Bo T
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james terrio
Sharpest Knife in the Light Socket
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Kind of a smart-alec answer, but shaving sharp is the minimum (not a great idea for several reasons) and in your case, .110" is the maximum. Many makers and all factories I know of grind thin blades after HT to avoid warpage issues. The only way to know for sure is to try a couple test pieces and see how it goes.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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There are a couple issues here.
One is that 2" by 1/2" test blades may tell you what hardness you are getting, but may not tell you much about how an 8"X1.5" piece of steel will warp or crack. You didn't say what the full size knife will be, so unless it is 2X.5", you may want to test larger pieces.
Second, The edge thickness for water hardening steels needs to be fairly robust, and since you are starting out with .110, about half that should be the minimum.
On my thin blades made from .065 stock, I only profile the blade, and grind after HT.
On .100 stock, I profile and then rough in the basic bevel to about .050 edge. Avoid all sharp lines, like plunges or notches. Grind them in after HT.
One is that 2" by 1/2" test blades may tell you what hardness you are getting, but may not tell you much about how an 8"X1.5" piece of steel will warp or crack. You didn't say what the full size knife will be, so unless it is 2X.5", you may want to test larger pieces.
Second, The edge thickness for water hardening steels needs to be fairly robust, and since you are starting out with .110, about half that should be the minimum.
On my thin blades made from .065 stock, I only profile the blade, and grind after HT.
On .100 stock, I profile and then rough in the basic bevel to about .050 edge. Avoid all sharp lines, like plunges or notches. Grind them in after HT.
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You might wanna drill a hole in one end and put a loop of wire in the hole. When you get ready to quench grab the wire with the tongs so they don't take the heat out of your blade before you get to the quench.