Edgepro angles

Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
144
Hello all,

Who here knows if the Edgepro angles are inclusive? I think they are, but I am not positive.

Thanks.

Matt
 
Are you referring to the diagram in the manual that tells you what each of the colored angle markers (21º, 18º, 15º, etc.) corresponds to? If so, I'm pretty sure those are not inclusive.

(I have an Edge Pro Apex that I got a little less than six months ago. The manual may be different if you have an older one, but I doubt it.)

If you want to be totally sure, just drop Edge Pro an email. Their customer service is fantastic. :)
 
What does this mean? If the angle on the Edge Pro says 21 degrees, is that 21 degrees for that side or is it actally 42 degrees total?
 
What does this mean? If the angle on the Edge Pro says 21 degrees, is that 21 degrees for that side or is it actally 42 degrees total?
It's 21 degrees per side, which can vary depending on what part of the blade you're resting on.

I'm not sure if anyone thinks about this, but when resting the blade on the secondary bevel(say, a FFG), the actual angle you're sharpening at is going to be a few degrees lower than what you set it at.

So if I want the knife to be at 15 degrees per side, I typically have it set at 18 or higher. Because of this little curveball in the angle settings, I find it might be more accurate to simply sharpen freehand.
 
It's 21 degrees per side, which can vary depending on what part of the blade you're resting on.

I'm not sure if anyone thinks about this, but when resting the blade on the secondary bevel(say, a FFG), the actual angle you're sharpening at is going to be a few degrees lower than what you set it at.

So if I want the knife to be at 15 degrees per side, I typically have it set at 18 or higher. Because of this little curveball in the angle settings, I find it might be more accurate to simply sharpen freehand.


This is a good point. A distal taper and the severity of the saber grind and the position of the knife on the holder all affect the actual stone-to-edge angle. This is why I like the Wicked Edge. It holds the blade at a vertical angle, no matter whether the blade is a full flat grind or saber grind. And it locks the blade into a precise location so that as the stone moves further out the edge (away from perpendicular), the angle can be replicated exactly on both sides, even if the actual angle changes slightly along the blade.

It also adjusts a bit for changing blade widths.

The key isn't so much holding a perfect x-degree angle, as it is keeping the stone angles exactly constant at every part of the blade with every pass and on both sides of the blade.
 
This is a good point. A distal taper and the severity of the saber grind and the position of the knife on the holder all affect the actual stone-to-edge angle. This is why I like the Wicked Edge. It holds the blade at a vertical angle, no matter whether the blade is a full flat grind or saber grind. And it locks the blade into a precise location so that as the stone moves further out the edge (away from perpendicular), the angle can be replicated exactly on both sides, even if the actual angle changes slightly along the blade.

It also adjusts a bit for changing blade widths.

The key isn't so much holding a perfect x-degree angle, as it is keeping the stone angles exactly constant at every part of the blade with every pass and on both sides of the blade.

Interesting point. Do you have any problems clamping the full flat grind knives such as the Spyderco Military in the Wicked Edge Sharpener? I have heard that they tend to "twist' a little in the clamp if any pressure is applied.
 
Interesting point. Do you have any problems clamping the full flat grind knives such as the Spyderco Military in the Wicked Edge Sharpener? I have heard that they tend to "twist' a little in the clamp if any pressure is applied.


I have the second generation. It is possible to clamp the blade off vertical if I'm not careful. But because I know it's an issue, there is no problem. Once the blade is properly clamped, it doesn't move.
 
How nice to read this topic at this point in time,:D

Just this moment i finished sharpening my CPM-D2 Military in a first generation Wicked Edge.
Earlier i had trouble clamping this flatgrind blade, but luckily i found the solution: the exact spot to clamp the Millie is right on the hole in the top position.
This prevents that the blade moves away from exactly vertical.

I use this Millie as a guinea pig to test edge finishes from polished to coarse to find out what finish works best on certain materials.
Until now the edge had been polished, but now it's finished to 600 grit (the finest of the standard Wicked Edge stones) after which i stropped it to remove the burr.
 
How nice to read this topic at this point in time,:D

Just this moment i finished sharpening my CPM-D2 Military in a first generation Wicked Edge.
Earlier i had trouble clamping this flatgrind blade, but luckily i found the solution: the exact spot to clamp the Millie is right on the hole in the top position.
This prevents that the blade moves away from exactly vertical.

I use this Millie as a guinea pig to test edge finishes from polished to coarse to find out what finish works best on certain materials.
Until now the edge had been polished, but now it's finished to 600 grit (the finest of the standard Wicked Edge stones) after which i stropped it to remove the burr.

Wicked Edge now has 800 and 1000-grit diamond stones and 1200 and 1600-grit ceramic stones. Then various micron-level grit diamond paste for its leather strops.

I think EdgePro still has a wider spread of stones and polishing tapes -- and it's an exceptional system. But Wicked Edge now has plenty of spread and an easier, more precise sharpening system. You really can't go wrong with either one, but you still need a little knowledge.
 
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