Edgepro: Apex or Professional?

I have the Professional model, and I think some important points should be made here.
The Professional model comes with a "Panavise", which is an expensive item all by itself. Not only does it allow you to put you work at any angle that's comfortable for you and will give better control, but can be used for other things too. There are Panavise optional items that are probably available from Panavise, but since I don't need them, didn't bother checking. Ben doesn't sell them either. He uses the Panavise as the base for his machine, and the Pro model is made for it.
One of the real beneficial things about the EdgePro is that it has marked angles on the angle adjustment which you can use for a reference, but the adjustment is infinite, so you can put any angle you want on your blade edge bevel and/or put a double bevel if you want to make the edge sharp, yet stronger.

Once you see this machine, you won't wonder why it's so expensive. It is pure quality, and made to last almost forever, no matter how hard you use it. It IS overkill for a guy who want's to sharpen a cheap folder every year. But for people with high grade knives that use them, it's worth it. I have a lot of money invested in my knives, and they're worth using the best on. At the same time, I can sharpen my kitchen knives, steak knives, fixed blades, folders, OTFs, anything. But the best part is they are all like razors when sharpened on the EdgePro, and it doesn't take but a few minutes.

I figured since I'm going all the way, I got the fitted storage box with it, and am glad I did. It holds everything in foam cut out sections very nicely. For anyone who buys the Apex, I strongly suggest getting the video. It makes starting and learning MUCH easier. This video comes with the Professional model.

Yes, I spent a lot of money on my Professional model. I think it was money well spent, and would recommend it to anyone who cares about their knives. And no matter what you've heard, you CAN'T take it with you. You also won't get "another chance" at life here, so you might as well get some GOOD things that will make your trip here more fun and easier.

And no, I have no connection with Ben Dale. I've just done business with him, and find him to be a straight shooter, with a fine product.


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George
StarPD
 
I don't know if this is the right place, but I have had 1 problem with my Apex. I have a Randall 15 with optional sawteeth on the spine. Because of the bevel on the top edge, it won't stay secure on the platform. In general true double edged knives present a problem. Any ideas on how to solve this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom
 
Originally posted by knifeknut:
I don't know if this is the right place, but I have had 1 problem with my Apex. I have a Randall 15 with optional sawteeth on the spine. Because of the bevel on the top edge, it won't stay secure on the platform. In general true double edged knives present a problem. Any ideas on how to solve this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom

Tom, the Pro that I just received came with a plactic clip that you can insert on the guide. This gives more support and safety for a double-beveled blade. I believe this idea could be applied to Apex as well.

Hope this helps,
Kris.
 
Excuse me, but how does it handle serrated edges? Anyone know? Thanks.

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Champions make improvements as fast as losers make excuses.
 
Knifenut, double bevels are a little tricky but it can be done. The guide clip (just a section cut off of a plactic binder) gives you the extra height to support the bevel. If that doesn't work, you can lay the knife on the opposite bevel of the one you are sharpening. You'll have to mark the edge you want to sharpen with a marker and adjust the pivot arm until you get the angle. I've used this method and it does work. If the angle is too high for the arm, turn the pivot upside down, you'll get a couple more degrees.

Champion, Ben Dale (the maker) has told me that he sharpens the back side of a serrated blade the same as a plain edge. It does work, but all my serrations are done on a Spyderco 204. It just works better for serrations.

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
If you want to buy the Best Sharpening System spend the little extra and go with the PRO Model..
If you buy the best you will never be disappointed..
 
I agree with ProEdge.....if you want the best knife sharpener available, then go with the Pro! In the long run, it may just be the cheapest, as your always trying to find the best sharpener there is, if you buy the Pro then you don't have to worry, because you will have the best.
If I had known about Edge Pro a long time, I could have saved lots of $$$ because I bought most all the sharpeners on the market searching for the ultimate. I have lots of sharpeners, but only use the Pro now!
 
Well, I just did it. My EdgePro Professional is on the way. Jerry Hossom had one he never uses, so I saved him having to carry it to the blade show to sell. I'll let you guys know what I think when I get it (not for a little while, 'cause I'm moving and it's going to the new address, but I won't be there for a while).

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
I can't imagine anyone being disappointed with the Professional model. Ben Dale's advise on maintaining combo edges by sharpening ONLY the plain part of the edge on the serrated side, and full length on the back side really works, and makes keeping combo edges sharp easy.

Also, wiping and rewetting the stones for each pass only takes a few seconds, and improves the consistency of the edge. Regular wiping of the excess water and metal and stone particles from the "bench" the blade rests on prevents blade scratching.

His method of determining factory bevel angle, which you can then duplicate thanks to the infinite angle adjustment is one of those "why didn't I think of that before?" reactions. Of course, with a fixed only set of bevel angles, the question is moot, since you may not be able to equal the angle with the factory pre-sets.

As I've said before, even though just like any good sharpening system, you have to travel the learning curve to achieve best results, I don't think anything in the business even comes close. Undoubtedly, SOMEONE will find a fault with it, but they'll have to look very hard, and any negative will have to be a real stretch.




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George
StarPD
 
Well, sharpening the back side of serrated blade might be a problem, if the back side is coated.

Ben Dale, after exchanging some emails, suggested a following solution for sharpening serrations on the "front" side. Get a blank aluminum insert, and glue a triangle stone (like one used with Sharpmaker) to it. Then, take advantage of a set agle and use it for sharpening serrations on the "front" side.

I just got some blanks today AND I AM GOING TO TRY IT!
smile.gif


Kris
 
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