EdgePro Apex

Geez guys, right when I'm content with the diamond and UF combo paired with stropping, everyone starts talking more about the Apex.

You guys are sure an expensive set of friends here. Making me drool over new gear constantly!!!

I guess I'm lucky its tax season (and I dont live in Cali:D) so I can get a knife AND a new sharpener.

I also have just moved into a much bigger place, which I can devote a solid amount of space entirely to having an Apex permanently secured. So I guess I'll let you know when I pull the trigger.
 
My Pro Kit 2 arrived Friday and it is the BEST sharpening system I have ever owned and I will probably never need anything else. The initial "buy-in" was high but after seeing the results on a few of my knives, well worth the investment. I had some questions for Ben at Edge Pro when I first started using it this weekend and he answered everything quickly for me and got me on track for those amazing reults. I couldn't be happier although I wish now I had taken the plunge earlier and not wasted my money on those inferior designs!
 
So-Lo said:
I do like the results an EdgePro gives, but like Dale said if I could leave it up all the time I would use it more.

As it is now I tend to reprofile new knives and put that first screaming sharp mirror edge on it then use a Spyderco 306UF benchstone for touch ups. The 306UF is the best sharpening item I have ever bought hands down!

Straight off the 306UF you can whittle hair easy, no stropping needed. Ask Dale how sharp the knife we traded was :D I don't find any need for a knife sharper than "hair whittling."

So yes, get the big Apex kit and get a 306UF also :D That stone might give you some sticker shock but it's well worth the $80-$90. I use mine everyday! My EDC of the day will get a few swipes before it goes in my pocket. :cool:
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+1 on both, absolutely!

Be safe.

NJ
 
TheGame said:
Where is the best place to get an Apex at? I have held off getting one for a while and think I am just going to pull the plug when I start working again and get one.
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I think the best place is at Edgepro (I looked everywhere on the web). I bought the "#4" package (was the only place I could get this package without having to buy add ons).

(from the order page) SKU: 03-APEX KIT 4
APEX MODEL EDGE PRO SHARPENING SYSTEM, CLOTH, WATER BOTTLE, 120 GRIT COARSE, 220 GRIT MEDIUM FINE , 320 GRIT FINE, 600 GRIT EXTRA FINE, 1000 GRIT ULTRA FINE WATER STONES, 3000 & 7000 GRIT POLISH TAPES, 2 POLISH TAPE MOUNTING BLANKS, 8" 1200 GRIT CERAMIC HONE, INSTRUCTIONAL DVD , INSTRUCTIONAL MANUAL ENCLOSED IN BLACK CORDURA CARRYING CASE.
Price: $225.00


I'M NOT ADVERTISING HERE but I wanted to emphasize that sometimes it's better to go to the source, like I did, lol. It's a terrific kit!

Be safe.

NJ
 
Native Justice said:
I think the best place is at Edgepro (I looked everywhere on the web). I bought the "#4" package (was the only place I could get this package without having to buy add ons).

(from the order page) SKU: 03-APEX KIT 4
APEX MODEL EDGE PRO SHARPENING SYSTEM, CLOTH, WATER BOTTLE, 120 GRIT COARSE, 220 GRIT MEDIUM FINE , 320 GRIT FINE, 600 GRIT EXTRA FINE, 1000 GRIT ULTRA FINE WATER STONES, 3000 & 7000 GRIT POLISH TAPES, 2 POLISH TAPE MOUNTING BLANKS, 8" 1200 GRIT CERAMIC HONE, INSTRUCTIONAL DVD , INSTRUCTIONAL MANUAL ENCLOSED IN BLACK CORDURA CARRYING CASE.
Price: $225.00


I'M NOT ADVERTISING HERE but I wanted to emphasize that sometimes it's better to go to the source, like I did, lol. It's a terrific kit!

Be safe.

NJ
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You'll probably want to pick up a couple of extra 120 grit stones. Those seem to be the only ones that wear out, (besides the polishing tapes) and they do wear out quickly. EdgePro is easily the best hand powered sharpening system ever made!

Stitchawl
 
Long.Rider said:
Is the Pro Kit 2 worth the extra near double the investment?
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I got the Pro Kit 2 a couple of weeks ago and I like you was hung-up on the price difference, but now I'm glad I did. In a word... Amazing ! Like a few of the others have said though, get an extra 129 grit or two, it seems like the others don't even wear.
 
What am I getting with the extra price in the Pro model over the Apex. The website says they're the same, but then I thought I saw that the Pro model may so a narrower angle without having to use a mount of some sort.
 
pocketfulladoubles said:
What am I getting with the extra price in the Pro model over the Apex. The website says they're the same, but then I thought I saw that the Pro model may so a narrower angle without having to use a mount of some sort.
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The EdgePro Pro Kit is better built. The EdgePro Pro Kit is a heavy duty machined professional piece of equipment. It clamps down to your table via a lever activated mechanical suction on the bottom of the base. It holds your sharpener solidly in place. Once you flip the lever you can pick up the table with your EdgePro Pro Kit. The Apex Kit which sets on your table with two plastic suction cups. The EdgePro Pro Kit also has a ball joint that allows you to adjust for the most comfortable sharpening angle for you, independent of the blade sharpening angle. The EdgePro Pro Kit sharpening arm or stone arm is larger and has a nicer tension ramp lock carriage. Over all it is just a nicer more solidly built piece of equipment and has a couple of extras the Apex does not have but that you can order separately from EdgePro. If you only sharpen one or two knives on occasion, with a little extra effort I am sure the Apex will provide the same results as the Pro. Personally I really like professional quality tools which IMO is what the EdgePro Pro Kit is. Plus I really like how easy the EdgePro Pro Kit is to use.

ep-apex-kit3_1512_general.jpg

The Apex Kit 3 includes Apex Sharpening System, cloth, water bottle, 120 Grit Coarse, 220 Grit Medium Fine, 320 Grit Extra Fine, 600 Grit Extra Fine, 1000 Grit Ultra Fine Grit Water Stones, instructional Manual enclosed in black cordura carrying case. 8" 1200 Grit Ceramic Hones and an Instructional DVD.

ep-pro-kit2_899_general.jpg

The Pro Kit 2 includes Professional Model Edge Pro Sharpening System, 120 Grit Coarse Silicone Carbide Water Stone, 220 Grit Medium Fine Ceramic Stone, 320 Grit Fine, 600 Grit Extra Fine 1000 Grit Ultra fine, 1 Pack of 15 -3000 Grit Mylar Polish Tapes, 1 Pack of 15 - 7000 Grit Mylar Polish Tapes , 2 Polish Tape Mounting Blanks, 10" 1200 Grit Ceramic Hone, Instructional DVD, Instructional Manual

Hope that helps some
 
An aside when I reprofiled my Kershaw D2 OutCast using my Gatco system it took a good 20 hours and literally ate up my coarse stones. The EdgePro reprofiled the same knife in minutes and none of the stones show any wear at all
 
The EdgePro is great. I get fast, consistent, sharp, good looking edges. It is a truly professional system.

The 120# stone for the EP cuts fast and wears pretty quickly. I'd get two of those if you plan to do much reprofiling. You definitely want this stone if you are going to do any rough work. Even just reprofilling and or sharpening a really dull knife.

I am surprised by how much finer the EP stones are then Japanese water stones (JIS grading system) or even the ANSI system (sandpaper). The 800 EP stone is somewhere between 3000 and 4000# on the JIS system and around 1200 to 1500 compared with wet or dry sand paper. I haven't used the EP 1000 stone.

It is particularly hard not to scratch the side of the blade when using the 120 stone. Even you you tape the table and the blade it tends to get under the tape. I don't think just taping the table, as shown in the vid really helps much. Maybe I use to much water. It doesn't look like Ben Dale uses much and he wipes it off. I like a little more water and mess. I have to take extra precautions and have to remove the tape and re-tape a couple of time to prevent scratching from the slurry / swarf on the table and knife. On my cheap kitchen knives I don't care. Just something to consider if you have a show knife.
 
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pocketfulladoubles said:
Indeed, much appreciated! :thumbup:

Do they have the same range of blade sharpening angles? In other words, can the Pro get a more acute angle?
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I have the Pro.

The pro can go to a more acute angle but the Apex can also (go to 0) with the addition of a riser block on the table under the blade. Ben Dale will also supply the riser block if you ask for it or you can easily make one form a piece of aluminum, nylon, or wood. It is just a rectangular block. The stone holding system is a little faster on the Pro (quick release) but I understand some have modified with Apex with a spring to get the same results.

After that the main advantages of the Pro are adjustable working angle, debatably better stability (not and issue), and the ability to use the scissors adapter.

You need a fairly smooth (no cracks) surface to use the pro because of the suction cup base. If a table or counter is textured like tile or something it wont work. Placing it on a cutting board on the table works fine in that case.
 
pocketfulladoubles said:
Indeed, much appreciated! :thumbup:

Do they have the same range of blade sharpening angles? In other words, can the Pro get a more acute angle?
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You're welcome. I would imagine they would be pretty similar in that regard. But that is only a guess as I don't have both. I just took the leap and went with the Pro. After a bit of research and 4ever3 recommendation. The Pro's possible sharpening angles will more than cover anything from a hatchet to a razor
 
You need a riser block on the apex to match the pro's minimum angle or to get to 0.
 
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I see on the website you can get extra stones unmounted for a little less money. What is an unmounted stone, and is this what you want for a replacement? Also, do you guys use the Diamond stones at all, for what blades, when used, and why? I'm definitely getting one of these - it just looks too good. Have to see if I have space in the garage for a permanent place for a Pro.
 
The stones are mounted (glued) onto an aluminum plate. The aluminum plate is what locks in to the handle/arm. Getting them unmounted just saves some money and takes some more time.

If you buy them unmounted you need to mount them yourself. The mounted ones have the stone already glued to the aluminum plate. Ben Dale recommends 3M spray adhesive so I think that is what he uses. You can also use epoxy but they are easier to replace if you use the 3M spray adhesive. You can also buy the aluminum plates separately or use your old ones. To use the old one you have to remove the old stone, clean off the glue (use solvent to remove spray adhesive or sanding for epoxy or both), and glue the new stone on. I always sand the plate to give the glue purchase (something to stick to).

The stones are $7 unmounted, $7 for the plates, and $14 mounted. You save $7 if you buy an unmounted stone and put it on your old plate.

I haven't used the diamond stones from EP so I can't comment. As stated before the water stones work very well. The 120 stone wears pretty fast but you only need it for really rough work. Normally, on knives that are just a little dull and not damaged much, you start with the 220# or 330# stone. Just depends on what shape your edge is in to start.

As a stone wears it dishes (is not flat). For precision work they need to be flat. You can flatten them by lapping. Get some of the carborundum grit Ben sells (for a couple of $ or maybe gives free if you ask). Put some on a flat surface like a piece of glass, or tile and work the stone on it until flat. Not too hard to do. There are directions. You could also use 120 or 220 sandpaper on a piece of glass, a conventional flattening stone, a ceramic whet stone, or a DMT diamond plate to do the lapping.

The EP is great.
 
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gary jp4 said:
As a stone wears it dishes (is not flat). For precision work they need to be flat. You can flatten them by lapping. Get some of the carborundum grit Ben sells (for a couple of $ or maybe gives free if you ask). Put some on a flat surface like a piece of glass, or tile and work the stone on it until flat. Not too hard to do. There are directions. You could also use 120 or 220 sandpaper on a piece of glass, a conventional flattening stone, a ceramic whet stone, or a DMT diamond plate to do the lapping.

The EP is great.
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Exactly what you said. Dave sent a glass plate and some silica with my Pro. That said I reprofiled my D2 Kershaw OutCast with the EdgePro and there was no wear on the stone. I as done in a few minutes. With my Gatco system the Kershaw ate my coarse stones up and it took a good 20 hours
 
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