Edgepro Gets a Go.

Sounds like I need to rewrite my B'day list again. ;)

Where did you guys order your Edge Pro's from?
 
I've been strongly considering getting one of the Apex Complete kits from www.bestknives.com for $180.

I've used several sharpening systems and always go back to free hand sharpening. I can get some scary edges freehand with only some diamond stones and a strop... hell, I even got my Ka-Bar to hold an edge for more than a few days. But, I got to try out an Edge Pro a few months back.

There's a knife booth at one of the local malls and I was browsing the selection; mostly cheap Chinese, but a fair selection of Cold Steel and even a few Sebenzas. On the counter top was an Edge Pro and I was looking at it and fondling it gently. The guy asked me if I had a knife on me and I pulled out my Kershaw.

I told him that I'd used some sharpening systems and am better at free handing. The Kershaw wasn't shaving sharp, but its weight alone would almost pull through news paper. He told me to try the Edge Pro. So I did, not expecting much. But, to my amazement, it was shaving sharp and kept that edge for a long time. Had I had the money on me, I'd have probably bought it. Fortunately, they didn't take cards and I found a better price elsewhere.

So, maybe in a few weeks (looking for a new place to live at the moment) I'll put down the money and get one.
 
So, when you tried the EdgePro in the mall, I'm assuming water was not involved...so it was basically a touch up job?

Yeah, I know I'm bringing up the water thing a little too often on this thread - just wondering...
 
I've had my Apex for about 2 months now & couldn't be happier with it.

Freehand sharpening on stones has always been the way I sharpened most of my knives. Through the years I've tried other ways (ceramic sticks, Sharpmaker, etc.), but nothing ever seemed as good as I thought it should be. The EdgePro system is as close to perfect as I think I'll ever need. :D

As far as using water, I believe it really does keep the stones from getting clogged. The easiest way I've found so far is something I got from a previous thread about this same subject (I don't know who it was that mentioned it, but they deserve the credit; it's a great idea). I set up my Apex on the vanity top in a bathroom next to the sink. I put the stones that I'm not using yet in the sink & let the water trickle over them to keep them wet. About every time or every other time I turn the knife over to sharpen the other side, I just tilt the Apex over a little so the stone I'm using can be easily rinsed under the running water. All the water is either in the sink or on the counter top and is easy to clean up when I'm done.

Also, setting up the system does not seem hard or time-consuming to me. The results FAR outweigh any set-up or clean-up time involved! :)

If you're considering getting an Apex, get the version with the 120 grit and 600grit stones; they're worth having.
 
I agree with everything Gregg45 says above and I use a similar system, albeit the kitchen sink. I never thought to have the stones I'm not using soaking in the sink, so I'll try that next time.

I purchased my Edge Pro Apex about a month or two ago and finally got it right on a KaBar Dozier and a Ken Onion (can't keep the vegetables straight but its the one with a blade of about 2 1/2 inches with a slight curvature). I took my time with the 120 stone and reprofiled to 15 degrees and waited till I made the burr. That was critical. I then moved through the 180, 300, 600 and the tapes which I believe are 1200 at about 18 degrees. I then wacked them on a leather strop.

Using the manly test of shaving the arm, I can only say that if I were a dog, my owner would have me at the vet being treated for mange.

I think that I'm done buying anymore systems as I believe that I'll be able to occassionally touch up the blades with my Sharpmaker set to 40 degrees. :D
 
Tim: You mentioned an Onion (A Scallion, unless I miss my mark). I've not tackled any blades with concave curves.

I've been corresponding with Ms. Montgomery and Mr. Dale at EdgePro (quick and satisfying responses). I was asking after the availablility of oval profile stones just for recurves. Mr Dale assured me that he has no trouble with recurve blades using the stock set of rectangular stones. He also mentioned that they have thicker stones available that can be shaped to what ever profile I desire. I may still give that a look. In the meanwhile, those Kershaw Onions are so reasonably priced, I think I can afford trash one :rolleyes:

The tape that comes with the complete set is 3,000 grit. They also have 4,000 grit available. I'm more attuned to the micron scale when it comes to papers, and am fond of using 3M .5 micron PSA Mylar as a pre-curser to a .5 micron stropping.

The important thing for me to understand is that there is no holy grail of knife sharpening. The techniques and tools are every bit as varied as the knives and the people who use and make them. While the EdgePro has certainly provided a HUGE leap in my sharpening capabilities, I havn't tossed ANY of my old stuff (except that POS "pull thru" style opposing steel wheel 'traption). I still enjoy free hand sharpening in front of the TV from time to time, and stropping remains the ultimate for shaving-sharp-ability.
 
edb said:
So, when you tried the EdgePro in the mall, I'm assuming water was not involved...so it was basically a touch up job?

Yeah, I know I'm bringing up the water thing a little too often on this thread - just wondering...
Click to expand...

EDB,
I do not have an Edgepro, I wish. As I recall, however, it uses waterstones. With waterstones you use water. You should be able to confirm that with Dale. If I am correct, that should answer your question. If I am wrong, I am sure somebody will probably enlighten me shortly. ;) A couple of people have come close to stating this, but not explicitly.

From the reading I have done, over the years, the Edgepro sounds as if it is one of the best systems for standard secondary bevels. I would like to get one sometime.

I have recently been using more Scandi (flat bevel) edges or convex edges. I am not sure that an Edgepro would be a big advantage with those edges, and of course there is always the money issue.

I do have a RazorEdge system. I bought it barely used, to try it. I did manage to finally get one knife as sharp as I wanted with it. It was a hollow ground blade, that I think was done on too small a wheel, so the lip or edge was thick. It took a long time. Another knife came out so so. A third was too thick for the clamp. I would not bother to get the standard RazorEdge system. The stones are OK, but they do not even attempt to tell the grit. Fine and coarse are all you are going to learn. I hope someone can tell me I am wrong on that and tell me the grit. Probably all one needs to know, but it still bugs me. I have the book and that is worthwhile. I would also like to have the little portable steel. So there are some RazorEdge items that I would recommend, but fooling with the stones and clamps, no. Can someone explain how you use the edge tester they sell? Do you slide it along the edge. could a Papermate stick pen barrel be used that way?

I think cbwx34 probably answered most of your question, especially with respect to comparisons.

My most used sharpening tool is a two surface 17" charged leather strop by HandAmerican. The top smooth leather has aluminum oxide (10,000 grit). The inside, rough layer is charged with coarser grit, around 800. Lately I have been more impatient and dumped on some 200 grit. This works fine with most of my edges, including convex. For major convex work, including an axe head I have resorted to sandpaper on a mouse pad. I also made myself set of "Hoodoo" hones, which are small blocks of wood with the mouse pad and sandpaper mounted on them. I wish I had had those when I was doing the axe head! ;) A search would probably turn up some references to those. After that it varies, Sharpmaker, ceramic stones, , diamond hones, and the two combined, Gatco triceps (portable), etc. I recently had a Scandi edge that needed a lot of work, and I just laid the edge flat on a diamond hone, then eventually went to a ceramic stone, and perhaps a little at the end on the strop.

:D
 
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