Edible knife oils?

i ues miltec, it will leak from the knife for a day or so and then work its way in/out and I'm good. I dont think I have ever had miltec get to the blade of my calypso, just on the kick.
 
I believe Ballistol can be used to lubricate food-processing equipment, so that says something about it's safety. It's also used for veterinary medicine in Europe. It smells at first but the smell will go away.

Edited to add: That doesn't necessarily mean it's good to eat. I'd keep it off the blade and use it to lube the parts that will receive friction. Mineral oil is always a good bet too.

Militec? I wouldn't use that anywhere near food until I hear that it is safe.
 
I'll put in another vote for Mineral Oil. It is also good for removing tape adhesive from blades. Unlike vegetable based oils, mineral oil will not go rancid. This may come in handy if you let your knife sit for a long period.
 
nuts to oils/lubes.

knives shouldn't require lubrication in the first place.



i use my knives to cut food all the time but i don't use any lubrication so i don't have to think about any toxicity or bad tastes.

so far, my folders (well, the ones worth a damn) are still going strong.

just a thought.
 
Midget said:
nuts to oils/lubes.

knives shouldn't require lubrication in the first place.



i use my knives to cut food all the time but i don't use any lubrication so i don't have to think about any toxicity or bad tastes.

so far, my folders (well, the ones worth a damn) are still going strong.

just a thought.
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I've been lubing less frequently.
Autos that use the button as a lock need it or the soft metal of the button will wear prematurely and the knife will develop some play when it's locked open. OTF autos often need lube in the right places until they break-in and become reliable.
I've found that locking bars on linerlocks and framelocks get sticky when wet with lube and it's better to keep them free from oil.

Sometimes lube just FEELS better on the open, especially with lockbacks like the Spydercos.
 
Where many use mineral oils I use pomace oil. Pomace is oil made from the residue of olives crushed for virgin olive oil. The remains are steamed and another, non-food grade, but still edible oil is the product of this process. It is relatively inexpensive, fairly high viscosity--so that a smear won't just run off, and it is still organic enough to eat without complaint though it doesn't taste good. It stores without refrigeration for up to a year.

It also makes an excellent reconditioner of wooden knife scales as it penetrates well, and is a natural oil. Make sure the one you buy doesn't stink though. :D
 
Ryan8 said:
Militec? I wouldn't use that anywhere near food until I hear that it is safe.
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"DANGER:Contains synthetic hydrocarbon derivatives harmful or fatal if swallowed"

Straight from a Militec bottle....I put some on a Benchmade 732 and shortly after used a toothpick and had forgotten to wash my hands. I got just the residue of Militec on my tongue and thought I was going to have to go to the E.R. the burning was so bad. Militec is a great product, but don't ever let it near a knife used for food.
 
I generally like using Tuf-Glide and Tuf-Cloth as a basic protectant for my blades. Because it dries to an intert (and non-toxic) film, you can wipe the knife clean after it dries with a soft cloth, and it should be safe enough.

However, if you're looking for a longer-term storage situation, or for increased protection, there are least three oils that I know of which are well suited to this: Clove Oil, Camellia Oil, and (food grade) Mineral Oil.

  • Clove Oil: One of the oils traditionally used in Japan for blade protection. Some people really like the smell of it, which can be a nice bonus (I'm one of them).
  • Camellia Oil: Another oil used traditionally in Japan for blade protection. It is also scented, though not as strongly as clove oil.
  • Mineral Oil: Basic, simple, inexpensive, and very easy to acquire. Clove and Camellia oil can be a little bit more difficult to find sometimes, but you can find food-grade (this is important) mineral oil in almost any drug store or grocery store, usually sold as a laxative. You can add Clove or Camellia (or other non-toxic flavor/scent oils) to it if you want a scented oil.

I've used all three, and any one of them (or all of them) should suffice nicely.
 
What about Crisco?

I don't usually lube my folders these days, but I've been thinking that Crisco shortening might work well as a light lubricant for my knives.
Also as a rust preventative on carbon blades.
 
I bought a Cold Steel Trail Guide that had been bathed in linseed oil. Several months after buying it, and using it pretty well, I was picking pears, and decided to eat one right there. I used the Trail Guide to cut off some pieces for my dog and I, and I felt fine. I'm guessing linseed oil is not toxic, but just my 2 cents.
 
I eat miltech and drink gasoline, i ain't worried about no knife oil contaminating my food :cool: Actually, even if it wasn't harmful, WD40 or RemOil really tastes bad. Maybe we should use Cod Liver Oil. Wasn't that supposed to be good for us.

I generally use mineral oil on my khuks. Its good for blade, handle and sheath so no cross contamination worries.
 
Oops, thought you meant as protectant for some reason. FP-10, Militec, whatever is fine, you only need the lube in the pivot, and if you lubricate properly you'll never have any on the blade itself. Any that does get on the blade can be wiped off and shouldn't pose any heath hazards. Instead of using any sort of protective film on the blade I reccomend polishing it with flitz reguarly to remove any surface haze or light rust and to enhance its rust resistance.
 
Check out MD Labs XF-7. It's food-safe and has excellent staying power because it's a grease. A little goes a long way, so you won't have much on your knife to rub off and ingest.
 
silenthunterstudios said:
I bought a Cold Steel Trail Guide that had been bathed in linseed oil. Several months after buying it, and using it pretty well, I was picking pears, and decided to eat one right there. I used the Trail Guide to cut off some pieces for my dog and I, and I felt fine. I'm guessing linseed oil is not toxic, but just my 2 cents.
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Linseed oil is perfectly edible (iirc), it only produces cancer causing stuff when being burned.
But don't take my word on it, I'm studying exams right now, and I'm confusing things regularly.
 
Olive, veg, cirsco, etc will go rancid after a while. Cast iron seasoning uses crisco but it's baked on to form a film...I say stick with mineral etc. Safe for consumption and won't get "Funky" I've also used Rem and WD in the past and never had anything bad come of it...
 
My 30+ year old "Old Timer" just got a bath in WD40, two nights ago it received a miltec coating and a few days before that olive oil. It really doesn't matter what oil you use. Just rinse,wipe and use then oil it after.
 
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