Educate me a bit more on etching solutions

Fletch Helical

Fletch Helical

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Sep 29, 2009
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So I'm getting around to cleaning up a piece of stainless to test etching my mark on before I try it on an actual knife. Here's what I know and it will be followed by a brief (hopefully) question and answer period, where I ask the questions and seek answers :D.

I know I can use salt water to etch and I need to make sure the salt is fully dissolved. (This btw concludes the "what I know" portion of this post).


QUESTION TIME!!!

1. Is there a specific ratio of salt/water that should be used? I mean I'm sure there can be such a thing as too little salt in the water, but can there also be too much?

2. Can I mix up a small bottle of the stuff and keep it on hand? Or is it necessary to mix a new batch before every use?

3. Neutralizing afterward? Do I need to do it all the time? Certain steels only? Regardless either way, what do I use and how do I use it?

4. Haloing I've heard you can get halos sometimes when etching. What are the usual causes of it happening and how does one go about avoiding it?

I think that's it for now, chances are more will arise as this thread develops. As usual thanks in advance to all participants.
 
1. 4 oz water 1 tsp salt, If you want a more aggressive etch use vinegar instead of water.

2. Its so cheap why would you want to keep it, But yes you can keep it in an old jar just try to use a plastic lid.

3. Yes you should neutralize it every time

4. It happens when you get too much solution under the stencil, it will leave a faint ring that will get bolder over time if you don't take care of it first
I use 1500g sandpaper to go over the mark after it is neutralized
 
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Rusty has it nailed, I keep the solution in a small bottle so I dont have to mix each time, I also have a tiny bit of TSP in the solution. I rinse with a soap solution right after the etch to prevent any marks on the blade from the solution, it is caustic.

Stainless is a tough place to practice I would start with some carbon steel, it etches faster and darker, but you need to practice with stainless as well.

One point, the solution is just trying to pass the electicity to the blade, so you dont need a puddle (halo) the pad just needs to be damp. I wet the pad and then touch to a paper towle to remove excess.

Only hold the pad to the blade for one or two seconds and then up for one or two seconds, this will prevent gas build up. Look closely at the etch and see if there are any light dots which show that it has not been etched. I started using a Q tip and get better results but a pad works fine, just a little less control.

BTW if you tape the stensil all the way around you can carefully pick up one corner to see how you are doing, once you have your process down you will not need to do this.
 
So essentially just washing the area with soap and water will neutralize it?

I will do some practice on carbon first. I just want to get a feel for stainless because I made a knife out of stainless and wanted to mark it.
 
Fletch Helical said:
And I would do this how?
Click to expand...

Windex or any other window cleaner with ammonia in it is best, second would be a saturated solution of TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate)
Both work well but Windex is a bit simpler to use, spray on let it set a second or two and wipe off and repeat a time or two.
 
Really windex? Alright seems simple enough. Now I just have to get a few pieces of steel sanded to 400. I haven't even been in my shop for any length of time for easily 2 weeks :(.
 
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