Educate me on Tanto survival blades please

Honstely, I have not found the Tanto to be any worse at anything, then other knives. (Skinning, I don't know)

If having a Tanto instead of a drop point (Or any other) is whats going to make the diffrence, in you not surviving, I'll put my money on you not making it any way.

Its has more to do with the guy using it, then what shape the knife blade has.
 
What kind of fine, bush crafting work are other tips better for? This is a 12.5" knife w/a 7.5" blade. What what kind of fine work would something like a bk-7 be better for? Still trying real hard to justify my knife purchase since a 4.1" mora is also going with. :-)
 
What kind of fine, bush crafting work are other tips better for? This is a 12.5" knife w/a 7.5" blade. What what kind of fine work would something like a bk-7 be better for? Still trying real hard to justify my knife purchase since a 4.1" mora is also going with. :-)

Why try? Use what you have and see if it works for you. Some use a hand axe and pocket knife and are perfectly happy.
 
If you look at it, true survival knives in tropics have really no point: golock, parang & bolo. The tip is a just a thick 'corner' that can be used for 'drilling' holes.
In colder climates the traditional shapes are drop and clip points, and that must be for a reason.
If you check the 'american tanto' tip is a baby in knife terms and somehow for a few thousand years no one was missing it that much, until the modern tacticool times...
 
Well shoot. Those are great reasons. I was hoping to take a recently purchased cold steel Warcraft tanto on a camping trip planned for March. I guess I'll just wait for some GSO knives to become available.

Why try? Use what you have and see if it works for you. Some use a hand axe and pocket knife and are perfectly happy.

Bring it, use it and find out for yourself.
:)
 
On one of the late Ron Hood's videos he describes his Anaconda design which has the tanto tip. He shows how he can choke up on the blade and use the point for fine work. He also said it was easier to maintain the two straight edges in the field over other designs.

Anaconda pictured third down.

marksknives001.jpg
 
Have you sharpened the 'two straight' planes of the 'Anaconda' to verify that it is indeed easier than a single, smooth transition from the tip to the heel of a knife? Ron Hood may have said that it was easier, and it may have been easier for him, but I feel confident in saying that when it comes down to actually sharpening, 9 out of 10 people are going to prefer to sharpen any of the other knives you show in your picture before sharpening that tanto blade. Even instinctively you feel that it is a more exotic and difficult edge to sharpen.
 
Really? I had heard of that knife but didn't know there was a tanto iteration. I would have gone traditional point on the knife but the cold steel was $163 after tax and shipping and it's a sub zero quenched cpm-3v blade design that's 1/5" thick. I'm glad there are merits to the design and am going to investigate it more when I go camping.
 
Have you sharpened the 'two straight' planes of the 'Anaconda' to verify that it is indeed easier than a single, smooth transition from the tip to the heel of a knife? Ron Hood may have said that it was easier, and it may have been easier for him, but I feel confident in saying that when it comes down to actually sharpening, 9 out of 10 people are going to prefer to sharpen any of the other knives you show in your picture before sharpening that tanto blade. Even instinctively you feel that it is a more exotic and difficult edge to sharpen.
I'm not a sharpening pro by any means but on bench stone I found the straight sections easier to control. The curve at the tip it where I have more trouble so I see why he said it. On other systems though I agree with you. I ended up selling all of them except the Fehrman Hoodhunter and the Trailmaster so I can't really give a long term review of it. I found the handle ergos a pain to get much woods time with it.
 
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