Educate me on the EDC

Haha... a hornets rear end? I didn't say it was over rated at all. I get hung up on stupid things regardless of how good the knife is. My Vex is 8-1/4" and the Meaner is roughly 8-3/4" right? It might be the direction I go in. I thought the warden would be good but didn't realize its more than an inch shorter than the Vex... which I really like. I just dont want anything approaching RMD length... thats not an EDC in my book.

If you like your vex, why not stick with it. It has a great warranty just like Busse. On a smaller thinner knife, I dont think INFI will make much of a difference.

I edc a custm shop active duty on weekends and find it perfect. very comfortable little guy :thumbup:

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Make no mistake SR-101 is just as addictive as INFI so be careful, your home may be infested with rats before you know it. ;) I like coated blades so I find the 2 pretty close to eachother in all performing area's, and I am rough on steel. YMMV of course, but most find similar results.
 
The hornets... um... end is easily fixed on the meaner. This one has been my hunting blade for years. It would be a great EDC.

Call it a meaner duty... it has the critical extra 1/2 inch. I know it doesn't seem like much, but it makes a big difference...

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Don't discount the Cultie as EDC... INFI toughness in a lightweight blade. It may be the best of both worlds since it is much lighter than the Active Duty.

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Well, maybe you guys are right and I already have the perfect EDC knife. A D2 Vex is no slouch. I should probably allow it more fitting tasks than onion and tomato duty.
 
I edc a BAD, MS, High Street or a SRKW HC every day. Occasionally, I'll throw in a Nuclear EDC or a GW.
 
I EDC my fatty Game Warden in my front pocket. I wish I had gotten an active duty instead. Don't get me wrong it is the sweetest knife I own. It would be nice though to have a little longer blade, and the Fatty is to thick. You see all the measurements here on the forum, and you don't realize just how thick .27 in. is on such a "small" knife. Well I guess I don't ever have to worry about snapping the blade in half. :)
 
I think LVC managed to find some posts by Jerry where he commented on the suitability of other steels for certain tasks .... Jerry was if I remember correctly saying that D2 steel would take a better edge on a thinner blade and be able to take a higher heat treatment .... so for the design of the Vex the use of D2 may actually be because it works the best :)

In smaller blades I am happy with other steels .... I see the main benefits of Infi in a larger knife.
 
I gotta tell you guys, I'm definitely confused by all the streets. Is a Mean Street different than a meanER street? How about a Boss Street? Different still?
 
I think LVC managed to find some posts by Jerry where he commented on the suitability of other steels for certain tasks .... Jerry was if I remember correctly saying that D2 steel would take a better edge on a thinner blade and be able to take a higher heat treatment .... so for the design of the Vex the use of D2 may actually be because it works the best :)

In smaller blades I am happy with other steels .... I see the main benefits of Infi in a larger knife.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258583&highlight=JENNIFER

Why D-2?

Jerry is a big fan of D-2 blades when everything is done right on the knife. We have taken his advice on design, heat-treat, edge geometry, etc… and, in concert, with our superior Resiprene C handles will bring the finest, highest performance D-2 Tool Steel blades to the market. I asked Jerry to answer some questions about D-2 and here are his responses.

Why not stick with SR-101? And how does D-2 compare to SR-101?




Jerry:

“In the performance arena, it is nearly impossible to match what Swamp Rat is getting out of SR-101 in certain areas. The combination of incredible edge holding and toughness are unparalleled in the industry (except for INFI . . Sorry, I had to throw that in ;) ) . D-2 has a much better resistance to the elements in an uncoated or satin finished format than does SR-101. D-2 rivals ATS-34 for stain resistance and in fact proves to be nearly identical in this area in our accelerated salt spray corrosion tests. Surprisingly, or maybe not so surprisingly, the heat treatment and finish of D-2 can have a major impact on its corrosion resistance. When done properly, a D-2 blade requires minimal maintenance. Cleaning and oiling are a good idea but simply wiping the blade off and keeping it fairly dry will usually be all that is required for proper care.

In edge holding D-2 is an excellent steel and easily surpasses SR-101 when cutting harder materials such as steel banding, bone, etc. . . In soft to medium materials they are very similar in edge holding. In chopping and high impact applications, SR-101 easily surpasses D-2. Because of this, I do not recommend that any D-2 blades be longer than 5”.

In extremely thin edges, such as are planned for the Hunter/Utility line, D-2 will prove to be a superior choice. The same qualities that make SR-101 a great steel for abuse, play against the house when it comes to extremely thin cross sections. Under contact (cutting not chopping) with harder materials such as metal banding, bone, rock, etc. . . SR-101 will roll whereas D-2 will prove to be the clear winner in these applications. However, if you do any heavy lateral stressing on a thin cross sectioned D-2 blade, you may be glad that your Swamp Rat D-2 blade is backed by the best no BS warranty in the industry! ;)

D-2 also has a much greater resistance to high heat applications. What does that mean to you? Well, for us, as manufacturers that means that very fine edges can be satin finished with little worry of affecting the temper along the edge. This is not the case with SR-101, or any other simple “high carbon” steels, where extremely thin sections along the edge can be greatly affected by the heat generated from polishing.

So, in summary, for an uncoated blade with extremely thin cross sections, where cutting is the only intended application and hard materials such as bone, metal banding, etc…will be in contact with the edge, D-2 will prove to be a superior steel in edge holding and resistance to the elements.

In more abusive applications where cutting is to be coupled with prying, lateral stressing, high impact, and overall toughness, SR-101 will prove to be far superior to D-2.” --- Jerry Busse
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I gotta tell you guys, I'm definitely confused by all the streets. Is a Mean Street different than a meanER street? How about a Boss Street? Different still?


mean street, from the original days of straight handles. in the beginning they were made alongside the sh1's original shba's. the earliest models were a2 with smooth micarta and smooth bolts. when the newer ergo line started coming into being, the handles transitioned into the tube fastened machined scales with the quilt pattern.:
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meaner street and leaner meaner streets, from a production run in the recent production line. the meaner street was full height grind and the lms was saber ground but on thinner stock (I think)
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the boss street, the "busse old school series" rendition of the original straight handled design. it's larger and with a slightly different shape. currently in production.

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http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258583&highlight=JENNIFER


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mean street, from the original days of straight handles. in the beginning they were made alongside the sh1's original shba's. the earliest models were a2 with smooth micarta and smooth bolts. when the newer ergo line started coming into being, the handles transitioned into the tube fastened machined scales with the quilt pattern.:
ms01.jpg


meaner street and leaner meaner streets, from a production run in the recent production line. the meaner street was full height grind and the lms was saber ground but on thinner stock (I think)
picts2044.jpg



the boss street, the "busse old school series" rendition of the original straight handled design. it's larger and with a slightly different shape. currently in production.

zP1010713.jpg

Wow! Perfect. So are the mean streets rare? I know most busses are "out of production" but can still be found. And can I get some specs on the boss street? Blade length, OAL. Both of those are closer to what I'm looking for. I'm just not a fan of the leaner & meaner handles...
 
I gotta tell you guys, I'm definitely confused by all the streets. Is a Mean Street different than a meanER street? How about a Boss Street? Different still?

Yes, and yes

Find Bad Mojo and look up the old school knives. or Hog cult or Busse Collector.

The Mean Street ( and later the Lean Mean Street ) were the original small Busse knife.

Several years later, that slot in the line-up was filled by the Meaner Street and the Leaner Meaner Street. More recently we have seen many knives in the Meaner profile, but at a thickness between the original Meaner and Leaner, so some wags have dubbed them the 'Tweener' or 'Tweaner'. Not an official name.

Now we have the Busse Old School Series, and the first in this new (old) series is the BOSS Street, a scaled up version of the old Mean Street.



There will be a quiz on all this at the Induction Dinner at Blade. Best start studying.
 
Here is my GW HACK with a penetrator tip that I EDC. I just slide it into my pocket. Crappy pics, but you get the idea.

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While I have tried EDCing several Busse knives (Culti, Active Duty, BAD) the one I carry most often day-to-day in town and around the office is one of the thinner GWs (a .140 LE or the .140 Green Linen) because of its 3-inch blade. On weekends around the house and garden and on day hikes, I EDC something a bit larger - a BAD or, more recently, the new Boss Street which I find a perfect weekender, but a little too much for city carry.
 
Here is my GW HACK with a penetrator tip that I EDC. I just slide it into my pocket. Crappy pics, but you get the idea.

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Yes, that's the knife I was saying would be a great EDC! As for meaners, yea, I see my pict in this thread.
There are no such thing as a leaner meaner, so if you think you have one, send it to me and I'll take a look at it=) Ok, I'm just messing around, I can't get a hold of one and looking for a leaner, but they are so very very hard to get.
 
Here is my GW HACK with a penetrator tip that I EDC. I just slide it into my pocket. Crappy pics, but you get the idea.

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I had one of those, but it was just too darn FAT! If it was made at 0.14" or less, it would be an outstanding EDC.
 
My favaorite edc is a DC/Blk g-10 LMS I have. I carry it IWB and what really makes this knife perfect is the way the end of the handle rests on the top of my belt. The knife just disappears into my belt and I forget it is there. The BAD's are not too shabby either :thumbup:
 
I had one of those, but it was just too darn FAT! If it was made at 0.14" or less, it would be an outstanding EDC.

Normally I'm not a huge fan of the super fat knives, but for me it works on this one. It's still small enough that weight isn't an issue, and I like that I can use it as a prying tool also if needed. With the full height grind it still cuts plenty well.
 
Over here EDC is limited to sub 3 inch slip joints .... or you have to have a lawful reason for carrying whatever else you have chosen .... I therefore carry a Spyderco UKPK or a SAK of some description for compliance to this legality .... but if I had the option to carry a fixed blade as a general EDC knife .... then from the Bussekin options I like the spec's/style of the Vex best .... even if they offered it in Infi I think I prefer the D2 steel for this size and thickness .... especially with a Bussekin heat treatment ....
 
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