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Brock Cutlery

Brock Cutlery

Joined
Jan 10, 2015
Messages
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As I give away my knives I find that I am putting together a little blurb that explains what I am giving them, and how to care for it?
Do you have a blurb that you send along with gift knives for the uneducated? Will you share it? :)
 
I actually have directions inside the gift box it comes with.
Stating the care for the steel, 01 in my case.
Telling them to keep a light film of oil on the blade and parts.
Also stating the fact that acidic foods will stain the blade.
And over time it will have a natural patina.

Also cleaning instructions wash good. Hand dry or forced air in folder.
Than light oil.

That about sums it up
 
Mine is:
Don't put it in the dishwasher
Use it only on a soft cutting board " I will charge to repair chips from stone or gladd cutting boards"
Treat the knife with respect, it's a tool and art
Do not try to sharpen it yourself. I just offer free sharpening on my own blades and people bring gin others too. Too many fine knives have been lost to carbide pull sharpers.
 
I appreciate the responses so far. I should have posted this to start, but here is what I have used on my first few gift knives:

It is AEB-L stainless steel hardened to 62 Rockwell. The grind
is a full flat grind. The finish is a hand rubbed 1000 grit using
wet paper and oil.
Because of the higher hardness it should not be used to cut bone
or other dense items. Bone may chip or bend the edge.
It should not stain easily, but cutting acidic items like
tomatoes could cause staining of the blade after a while if not cleaned off. A
quick rinse should do.
The handle is desert ironwood with a Macassar ebony ferule.
The knife would best be stored in a wood knife block if
possible. It should not be touched by other utensils which will scratch the
blade and possibly dent the edge.
It should not be thrown in a dish drainer or drawer with other
metal utensils.
It is NOT dishwasher safe.
The handle is sanded to 1000 grit and has a rubbed oil finish,
which should be touched up every few months or so with Boos Block
Board cream. This comes in a tube and is used to condition cutting
boards. A mix of beeswax and food grade mineral oil.
One tube will last forever and it is very cheap.

I have sharpened this up to 1000 grit Japanese water stone,
which isn't overly refined. It could go much higher. I would not recommend
sharpening steels or grooved or automatic sharpeners. The best
way to care for the edge long term is a good stone.
You can learn the right sharpening techniques here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dW_sAqpVmug
I use a 1000 Shapton water stone. You can find this on ebay for
about 60 bucks.

It has a lifetime warranty. If you ever have issues due to
craftsmanship or accident just send it back to me for repair
 
I have one specific to blade steel and hane material...so I have a few I just save on google docs:)
 
Here are my thoughts on your write up.

The first thing I notice is you have a lot of technical details that we all understand but most end users are not going comprehend. I would wager very few of your average knife buyers know what 62 rockwell, 1000 grit or full flat grind mean. I think it could deter them from reading the whole thing and ultimately miss your intended message.

That message, I'm guessing, is don't cut bone or hard stuff, don't put it in the dishwasher, don't sharpen on concrete, oil a non stainless blade, etc. With a care and maintenance insert I would keep it simple and short and to the point.

I personally would not recommend brand name products or others youtube videos unless you are reimbursed for promoting them.

I have sharpened this up to 1000 grit Japanese water stone, which isn't overly refined.
Click to expand...

I would omit that or reword it to something explaining why it is not refined. To me it reads as if you could have done more.

Last thing I notice and am curious about is why you do not recommend a chef's steel? If I am a novice user how am I going to hone my edge? Stones are for sharpening.

This is just my opinion so don't take it the wrong way.

-Clint
 
Here's one I've sent out with applicable knives:

Hi! I am a hand forged custom kitchen knife. With the proper care and precautions, I should provide you with many years of cutting excellence and enjoyment in the kitchen. Here are some things to know:

Be careful opening the package. I am probably sharper than any knife you have used.
I am made of 52100 alloy carbon steel. This means that I am not stainless steel. So, please do not put me in the dishwasher. Hand wash me, and then wipe me dry. Please do not leave me out with food particles on my blade.
It is inevitable that I will discolor with use. This is normal, and eventually I will develop a dark blue/gray patina all over- typical of carbon steel knives. If a rust problem develops, contact my maker.

I should remain very sharp for some time. If you do not use me on glass or stone cutting boards, but only on wood or plastic, I will stay sharp much longer. If you do not put me in a drawer with other knives or utensils, I will stay sharp much longer. At the very least, protect my edge from contacting other hard materials.
Be careful when cutting with me. Again, I am probably sharper than any knife you have used. A quick education or brush-up on your kitchen knife skills would help greatly if you’ve never been shown some basic techniques. I recommend “Knife Skills Illustrated” by Peter Hertzmann, or taking a local class if possible.

If any questions arise about my construction, use or maintenance, or for sharpening instructions, please call 509-486-0196 or visit www.prometheanknives.com and click “contact me.” I am under full lifetime warranty, and the maker will always sharpen me for free provided postage is paid.

I send an email when the knife goes out, and advise them to open the shipping tube from the end marked "H" for handle. I leave this note under the "H" end cap, above the shipping paper and bundled knife. Of course, any alloy designation can be cut and pasted in instead of "52100" as shown here.
 
I have several sheets I include with a knife. Here is one for suminagashi knives. It is several pages long, so click the tab to open the PDF.
 

Attachments

These are all good suggestions and examples. I really appreciate the input and have got some great ideas for changes I want to make.
Many thanks all who posted!
 
Augus7us said:
Here are my thoughts on your write up.

The first thing I notice is you have a lot of technical details that we all understand but most end users are not going comprehend. I would wager very few of your average knife buyers know what 62 rockwell, 1000 grit or full flat grind mean. I think it could deter them from reading the whole thing and ultimately miss your intended message.

That message, I'm guessing, is don't cut bone or hard stuff, don't put it in the dishwasher, don't sharpen on concrete, oil a non stainless blade, etc. With a care and maintenance insert I would keep it simple and short and to the point.

I personally would not recommend brand name products or others youtube videos unless you are reimbursed for promoting them.
I would omit that or reword it to something explaining why it is not refined. To me it reads as if you could have done more.
Last thing I notice and am curious about is why you do not recommend a chef's steel? If I am a novice user how am I going to hone my edge? Stones are for sharpening.

This is just my opinion so don't take it the wrong way.

-Clint
Click to expand...

It sounds like you have a good marketing mind Clint. I'll certainly take these points into consideration.
 
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