Brian.Evans
Registered Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2011
- Messages
- 3,267
Now cut out five more spacers and two more end plates and make it a double arm. Look at the GIB website for what I'm talking about.
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Eerf grinder build-a-long
- Thread starter Sandeggo
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2013
- Messages
- 1,180
I agree. You can make one pocket on the grinder to hold your rest or... you can make one to put on every attachment arm. I will say that if you put a second pocket on your grinder frame, it would be better to put it lower than on the GIB. I'm actually thinking about adding another pocket to lower my rest on my GIB's.
Bob
I ordered aluminum wheels on the big auction site last night, 112$ for drive, tracking, and platen wheels. In the description it said to check out his YouTube. I went on YouTube and saw his 2x72 being driven by a variable speed bench grinder. So then it got me thinking as money is tight and I have 4 orders for friends and family to fill. I have an orange buffer/grinder that has a 5/8" shaft. I might try to rig it up as I really don't want to use my 1x30 anymore. The rpm of the buffer is 3500 on the label. I took the grinding wheel off of it years ago as the extra load made the buffer stall out rather easily and run slow. Pretty interesting but I'm not surprised that there's no grinding in the video. And yes, I am aware it would be less than ideal and it would be a very short term solution. Think it would be better than the 1x30?
http://youtu.be/buGjNeQngsY
http://youtu.be/buGjNeQngsY
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2012
- Messages
- 315
I have that same bench grinder I think its 3/4 HP, probably not ideal but it is significantly more powerful than a 1x30
Well I have been making some progress, I got the wheels on and tried to rig up the buffer motor last night, it didn't work at all. So now I'm shopping and researching motors and vfd's. I was able to find a surplus stick of 1.5"x1.5"x6' of 6061 for $30. Plenty of stuff to make a few tool arms. I got it all mocked up last night and the tracking setup works nicely spinning the belt by hand, also the 40# strut is nice. I think this pic was before I got shoulder bolts for the wheels.
I found a local surplus yard and found a 3 phase 5/8" shaft 1hp leeson that tested good and I watched it run for $75. They had some lenze vfd's as well but they were all .5hp. I got the motor mounted by the face. How much of the wheel has to be on the shaft?
Yeah I get that, that's why I am asking how much of the drive wheel needs to be on the shaft. The shaft on this motor isn't long enough to go through the whole drive wheel.
Ok so I ordered a VFD, I decided to go with this one because it was cheap and I like that you can remote mount the keypad and speed knob.
The unit is 230 in which is fine by me but the outlet in my garage is about 25' away. Will 12/3 be heavy enough or should I step it up to 10/3? My breaker is 30a and according to the spec sheet this thing draws 11amps max.
What are you guys using to align the contact and tracking wheels? I remember seeing laminated washer type rolls that you can peel off for your needed length, looked like a roll of quarters. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
The unit is 230 in which is fine by me but the outlet in my garage is about 25' away. Will 12/3 be heavy enough or should I step it up to 10/3? My breaker is 30a and according to the spec sheet this thing draws 11amps max.
What are you guys using to align the contact and tracking wheels? I remember seeing laminated washer type rolls that you can peel off for your needed length, looked like a roll of quarters. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
12/3 cord will be just fine for that 1 hp motor since you run is less than 25 ft, heck, it'd even work just fine for 30 ft or so. Don't short yourself on cord length.
I would think at least half drive wheel should be on shaft - at least enough for the set screw to clamp good.
until you decide to mount the second arm, you can always bolt your tool rest to bottom of existing 1.5" arm - that's how I do it, and works just fine.
Your build is progressing nicely, and you're going to be PROUD of that grinder.
Ken H>
I would think at least half drive wheel should be on shaft - at least enough for the set screw to clamp good.
until you decide to mount the second arm, you can always bolt your tool rest to bottom of existing 1.5" arm - that's how I do it, and works just fine.
Your build is progressing nicely, and you're going to be PROUD of that grinder.
Ken H>
Thanks ken. When I build my next one there will be a ton of things I do differently. I plan to mount a rest under on next to the tooling arm at first. I hate the multiple plate design to get the tool arm to fit. Absolutely hate it. I will probably redo a lot of things on this but as of right now I just want to get it running ASAP. I guess I can't complain as I'm into this grinder a total of about $300 including the motor and vfd.
My father in law gave me a 50' 12/3 cord. I plan to use some of it to get to the vfd,then off the vfd to a twist lock plug. I plan to use the vfd to power my mill as well so it will have a twist lock on it too.
$300 total? You da man! I've got around $400 in my new grinder including 2hp motor and VFD. For the 1.5" "box" to hold the tooling arm I used 2.5" and 1.5" X 1/2" thick aluminum bar stock to built it. Works like a champ, and I like working with aluminum.. I saw somewhere a guy was using his milling machine to turn a pulley. With the hole drilled in center of round stock, then an arbor holding the round stock and chucked in mill, a lathe tool clamped to bed of mill, he turned the pulley slick as a whistle. I don't remember all the details.
Ken H>
Ken H>
wheels were $100
motor was $75
Vfd $100
aluminum bar $30
bolts $15
Spray paint $5
okay I lied, $325
Jesse Latham
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2010
- Messages
- 837
My 3 phase motor uses a 4 wire cord from the variable drive to the motor. I am sure yours will also. From the drive to the wall is a 3 wire. Jess
cab tire (soow, sjoow) lists the ground as a conductor, 12/3 will have 3 wires in there. Every other type of wire (teck, NMD, BX, etc) a 12/3 will have 4. This is probably because in the cab tire the ground is insulated, and the same gauge wire as the conductors. In regular wire its uninsulated and one size smaller. 12/3 teck will have a 14 gauge ground, for a total of 4 wires.
The wire you would probably use for the motor is cab tire, its the rubbery stuff that you use for extension cords. So you should get a 12/4 cab tire from vfd to motor so you can ground the motor.
I am probably answering an unasked question, but there it is anyways.
The wire you would probably use for the motor is cab tire, its the rubbery stuff that you use for extension cords. So you should get a 12/4 cab tire from vfd to motor so you can ground the motor.
I am probably answering an unasked question, but there it is anyways.
Hey I don't mind one bit. I hate electrical, and by hate I mean deathly afraid and/or respect it. I've never connected a vfd before so I'm sure there will be questions when the time comes. Atleast the guy left the proper colors connected on the motor after he tested it so it should be fairly easy to connect, I hope. I know the 12/4 cord you're talking about as it comes on all our welders with the thick black rubbery insulation.
4 conductors are understood from VFD to motor. From reading his question I assumed (yea, I know "ass-u-me"), he was asking about from recept to VFD. In a pinch, you could use 3/C from VFD to motor, AND use a 1/C from motor to VFD for ground. BUT - YOU DO NEED the ground for safety.
Ken H>
Ken H>
Yes I am using a 4 cord with plugs so I can switch between my mill and grinder. I don't want to deal with switches or disconnects. A fail safe way for me to ensure theyr'e never on at the same time is with a twist lock