By the way. I was thinking about mu set up Here is some element stuff. If you run 2 elements in series (one end of each element ties to the other) on the 220 at 15 amps you will have this 110v x 15a = 1650 per element. Total of 3300w. As 1/2 the voltage will drop across each element. I ran 2 elements in series at I think 17 amps. If you run both ends of each element tied together and to the 220 you would need to make the elements twice as long to only use 15 amps per element. They would be way to long. I just fit mine in using one long loop per element and one element on each side. The coils were not very far apart. You can not crowd the spirals tp much or have them touch. If you want more power you need to go to 14 gauge wire and figure out how much to use to. If you put to much on the wire it will burn out way faster. Without 4 elements you are not going to beat the 3300w with 16 gauge and keep wire in it. If you used 2 normal length elements of 16 at 220 you would actually hit 60 amps and 13200 watts till it burned out. If I ever change out my elements I am going to go with size 14 wire. But, not to much more amp3rage. Might kick it up over 20 amps a bit, but, 1500 in 12 minutes is plenty fast. I am going to do some D2 soon so I will know how fast to 1850. I will mostly go with heavier wire to get longivety.
By the way. I put my connections to the elements in the rear. I drilled 3 holes thru the bricks in line with 3 larger holes in the steel housing. then I mounted a piece of insulation board from an old transformer an inch or so away from the steel housing. It had 3 holes that matched those in the bricks. I then ran pieces of 5/16 stainless allthread thru the holes and had a nut on both sides of the insulation board with an inch sticking free to the outside. Each piece of all thread stuck thru the oven and tru the bricks where I had a ss washer and 2 nuts against each other. I then connected my elements to these "terminals posts" with a third nut and 2 washers. The center post had both elements and each outside post had the other end of one element. On the outside board I connected on leg of the 220 to each outside post. I covered this with a metal junction box I drilled a bunch of holes in to let any heat out. I grounded the outside of the oven box by the way. I mounted my pid and SSR in another junction box and mounted it on stilts about 2" above the top of the oven. The pid face sticks out of the box for reading and setting. I also mounted a momentary on switch (push switch) on the box and when the door is closed a adjustable bolt heat presses the switch. This switch is on one of the wires that goes from the pid to turn on the SSR. That way when the door is opened it cuts power to the elements so if I hit one with a piece of steel I am not shorting out myself, the steel or the element. I made the lid of my oven removable so that if my elements burn out I can remove it, the Koawool, top bricks and replace the elements. Trying to do that thru a 4.5" x 4.5" hole 24" deep didn't seem like it would be a good job
. 16 AWG wire is .051" DI and .3388 ohms a foot. i want 15 amps so, 240v/15a = 16 ohms. then to get total wire length, 16 ohms/.3388 = 47.2255 Feet. now winding a 1/2" coil gives, (.5-.051) x pie(3.14) = 1.41 inches in each loop. so, 1"/.051= 19.6078 wraps in each inch. thats, 19.6078 x 1.41 = 27.658 inches of wire used to wrap 1 inch long coil. now, 47.2255 feet of wire = 566.7 inches. thats, 566.7 / 27.658 = 20.49 inch long coil. now there will be one coil on each side connected in parallel.
And he's one lucky cat too !