elk antler

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gatorforge

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Jul 2, 2010
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I have piece of elk antler that is of course porous on the elk antler. It is split so that I can hollow out a space for the tang, and I have two questions. 1. How do i get the end of the butt end to be solid rather than porous, 2. even with it being hollowed out perfectly, there is still a slight gap between the two antler pieces how can i fill that gap to make the handle seem seamless?
 
Got a pic of the antler? I think you'll get better responses if you post pics that help visualize what you have and what you're hoping to achieve... Just my $0.02!
 
I just finished a blade with elk and the pours part of the butt adsorbed enough Teak oil to pretty much fill the gaps, I had considered super glue if needed. to get your slabs flat, tape 100 grit paper to a ceramic tile and sand slowly while rotating the slab to prevent oversanding the leading edge.
 
Thanks Patrick and here are the pictures of the antler
elk3.jpg

elk2.jpg
 
I can see your dilema, I guess the idea is to hollow out for the tang and glue the whole thing back together. To make the two fit together and sand along the curve, fold a piece of 220 grit in half, place between the slabs and rub gently with just a slight back and forth motion. This should get you pretty close, If there are some high spots you can use a file to smooth them over first. I am not sure you will be able to get a seamless match but should be pretty close.

I would plan on two pins going through everything, the pins will transfer shear forces from the blade to the handles reducing the chance of spitting.
 
I'd try a styrafoam press and bondo fiberglass resin-the styrafoam should contour to the shape of the scales and force the resin into the pores.
 
Do you plan on tapering the front and back a bit or are you going to keep round?, I think you can seal that butt pretty easy and have a good look to it. I have completed some knives and place in a jar or Teak Oil (or what ever finish oil you like) and let it soak for an hour or so.
 
Thanks again patrick. Payette, I dont know much about using bondo, so if you could describe the process you mentioned a little better, i would really appreciate it.
 
I wet sand the antler dust into the butt of the handle with super glue...works 100% of the time and turns out beautiful. After I get the butt shaped like I want, I start pouring the super glue into the pith in the butt. While it is still wet, I "wet sand" it in with 220 grit till it sticks or grabs my sandpaper...ie: the super glue is drying. I may spend 3-4 cycles at 220 grit to ensure the pith is filled with the slurry mixture. Then...on to 320 grit and super glue for 2-3 more cycles. On to 400 grit and 600 grit wet sanding. By then you are dizzy headed from the fumes and the butt of the knife handle is filled. Smooth it on out and get it like you want it and then buff to your satisfaction. You might have to go back and sand some more dust in with a larger grit, say go back to 320 after you have finished up with your 400 cycle, etc.

If you can, go with the super glue that takes a little longer to set...then you will be able to sand more antler dust into the pith if you know what I mean.

Best of luck!
 
FWIW - the old timers boiled their antler - done right the pith will generally turn solid. On old knives with stick tangs they often used no pins or anything else - a hole somewhat smaller than the tang was drilled into the pith and then the piece was boiled. While still the antler was till hot the tang was forced into the hole and once cooled it locked the blade into place. The suspenders/belt types often then added a pin, but I've made some one without pins and you have to destroy the antler to remove it from the tang.
 
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