Elk Horn Sealant ???

don't know if this is what everyone does ,but i mix a little resin with some of the hardener and spread it all over the pores side till it wont take any more.
the next day it is sealed off and hard. same way on moose.making sure none get on the finished side.
works for me
vern
 
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I sand it in with thick crazy glue.....120-220-400-600 grits and then buff....it does fine if you use the glue at each grit.....
 
Since you asked-
Stag with a pithy center should not be used on a quality knife. Use only the outer layer, or get better stag. The exception to this is if a customer wants a particular piece of stag used.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Since you asked-
Stag with a pithy center should not be used on a quality knife. Use only the outer layer, or get better stag. The exception to this is if a customer wants a particular piece of stag used.
Click to expand...

I know that Bill , it was the customers Elk rack and only a small portion of the porous part is exposed . You did not answer the question .
 
Hi Jack! :)

Like was mentioned, of course you'll try to avoid it if possible. I know YOU know that though :) I had a customer give me a shed.... I laid into it with the saw only to find it had a horrible, nasty, pithy center with nearly no enamel. I told him about it, and he provided me with another set.

That was the best outcome ;)

On one order the guy insisted I use a certain piece... and did NOT want a butt cap.

I put the knife in a vise, point down, then made a "dam" around the end of the handle with scotch tape. I mixed up AcraGlas and got it nice and hot (makes it flow really well)... then poured it over the end.

Once set, the end of the handle polished out really easily. :thumbup: :)
 
OK-just wanted to make sure you knew.
I have had great success using casting epoxy from the hobby stores. This is the stuff you see used to encase bugs, flowers, etc in acrylic. It dries clear and hard enough to polish. When first mixed, it is thin enough that the air bubbles will rise to the surface. It can be dyed pretty easily. You can reasonably control drying time by varying the amount of hardener. It is the only epoxy that I use in my shop. It sure stinks, though!
You could use it to cast entire handles if you wanted.
Did I answer the question? Will we be tested later? ;^)
 
Thank you Nick and Bill . I guess I owe you an explanation of my OOPS . I cut and shaved thin sections out of the stag until there was very little pith left just in the center and the handles were the right thickness for a good feel in the hand . Here is the OOPS . If I had traced out the tang on the scales and cut to almost finished shape I would have seen that some was going to be expose and I could have changed my flat sanding angle to remove it to the enamel . Well I did not and when I finished shaping the handle I had to remove to much material on the bottom of the tang . So I have about 1/32 showing on each side of the tang on the bottom . Obviously a full tang knife . I will get it sealed and we shall see what the customer thinks when he gets home from Alaska .
 
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