end of summer projects

Really nice work KM, don't know any knife nut that doesn't aspire to have a couple of "as forged" blades in the collection. Have to agree with Yvsa, the two larger ones look straight out of LOTR. Good stuff. :D

Sarge
 
Howard Wallace said:
Would you give some details on the stabilization process and how it worked?

I used a chemical called "Nelsonite 15B02" which I ordered from Nelsonite Chemical Products inc. in Grand Rapids, MI. You can order from various people online, but I found that it was cheapest and easiest to call the company and order a gallon of the stuff directly. It cost ~$18 plus $10 shipping for the gallon. Thier telephone number is (816) 456-7098.

I poured the Nelsonite into a 1-gallon glass jar with a wide mouth. You take the piece of wood that you want to stabilize, dip it in the Nelsonite, and let it soak for 30 seconds. Then take it out and let it dry - usually takes about 5-30 mins to get dry to the touch, about 12 hrs before further finishing/sanding operations are suggested, and a week before full waterproofing capabilities are reached. This is according the data sheet that the company sent me.

Some people say that you have to use a vaccum pump for proper stabilization. I don't know if this is necessarily true. The company says that dipping is all that is necessary.

The Nelsonite seems to do a good job of waterproofing the wood and also bringing out the grain. Lately I've been trying wet sanding with Nelsonite. It seems to work pretty well in this regard.

As for the other effects, here's what the documentation claims:
"STABILIZATION & DIMENSIONAL CONTROL"
1. Reduces shrinking of wood in dry areas which results in end splits and surface checks. This trouble arises during hte fall and winter when heat is turned on in the factory, and at all times in such areas as West Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico.
2. Reduces swelling of wood in humid areas which results in sticking, warping, and splitting. This trouble arises during the spring and summer when heat is turned off and the windows opened in the factory and at all times in the coastal and large river valley areas.
3. Reduces end splits and surface checks in wet lumber."

Okay, I'm tired of typing verbatim... this stuff is also supposed to help uniform penetration of stains, producing a more uniform color, prevents darkening of the end grain, forms a moisture barrier and protects the finish from water (this product was designed for use on furniture like table tops), gives the finish more depth, and you can mix it with oil based stains.

So even if half the claims are true, this is real good stuff for khuk handles. Since you don't need a vacuum setup, just dipping, it's very convienient to use. It's a whole lot easier than multiple coats of tru-oil too, and you get a great finish if you wet sand to 2000 grit and buff with some caranuba wax. It looks better than the tru oil finish that I did once, and that took me weeks.

I have heard claims from others that it works well on antler and bone. I tried it on my buffalo horn handle but it didn't seem to penetrate very well. Horn is probably much less porous than the antler. Bufallo horn is pretty well waterproof already, but stabilization features might help all the people who have problems with cracking and the like.

If you can't tell, I really like the stuff. It looks like the gallon that I got ought to be good for several years of use.
 
hollowdweller said:
So can you use a blacksmiths style forge to heat a blade to temper it??

I was over at my friends house Sat. and he has an old forge. Froze up but might be able to get it to work by taking it apart. Doesn't appear severely rusted.

Thought I might ask if I could take it home and see if I could get it to work.

Put up some pictures of it and maybe I can help out. I have an old forge that I'm trying to restore too.

You really can use any heat source that you can control well. I use a propane forge. Some people use an oxy/acetylene torch. If you really want to go high-tech, you can use salt baths or electic kilns.

If you have a coal forge, that will work great too. Some knifemakers like them better than the propane forges for heat treating.

Just make sure you aren't burning the coal directly, this will add many impurities to the steel and weaken it. You have to make coke first, which will burn much cleaner. Or use charcoal. Others can give you more advice here since I don't know much about these sort of forges.

Thanks for the leatherworking advice everyone, I wasn't planning on trying to make this sheath lighter, I just wanted to know for future use. I figured that there would be no way to lighten it up after I've dyed it. The dark color doesn't look too bad anyways.
 
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