Endura 4 Super Blue Sprint Run?

Whatever works for Spyderco. They know the ins and outs of working with those vendors and the foundries. It might be limited to a thickness that rules out the endura. I don't know, but Sal and Spyderco does and I'll get whatever they come up with.

Joe
 
I'd be interested in Aogami Super endura too. ZDP-189 worked fine, as long as the steel is hard enough, it's gonna be a very good performer based on others I have.
 
Wow! Thanks for the reply Sal. This is why I love Spyderco, so many options!

Hey Steel, can you comment on the impact resistance of Super Blue? My limited research has shown that it's apparently not very tough, and I happen to have terrible luck with my edges accidentally hitting hard surfaces.
 
FFG or Saber ground ? I'd prefer a FFG ground blade, but that's just me. I'm gonna try and buy one either way.
 
Hey Steel, can you comment on the impact resistance of Super Blue? My limited research has shown that it's apparently not very tough, and I happen to have terrible luck with my edges accidentally hitting hard surfaces.
Depends on the knife. I have a Takeda kuro uchi ryodeba knife in Aogami Super and the edge is about around 35-40 inclusive, never had a problem chopping through chicken bones, lamb ribs, etc... That one is about 62HRC, but blade is 7mm thick at the spine.
Although, IMHO, Aogami super is better at 64-65HRC, as a light use or a kitchen knife. Sharpening is fairly easy and edge holding even on abrasive stuff very high. Moritaka chukabocho lasts forever.
 
I'm in for a Super Blue Delica, hopefully FFG. This would be the next best thing to a PM2 in 52100 which will never happen.
 
Depends on the knife. I have a Takeda kuro uchi ryodeba knife in Aogami Super and the edge is about around 35-40 inclusive, never had a problem chopping through chicken bones, lamb ribs, etc... That one is about 62HRC, but blade is 7mm thick at the spine.
Although, IMHO, Aogami super is better at 64-65HRC, as a light use or a kitchen knife. Sharpening is fairly easy and edge holding even on abrasive stuff very high. Moritaka chukabocho lasts forever.
Is super blue a unique carbon steel because it can hit such a high rockwell hardness? I guess I just don't hear of alot of non stainless, or perhaps I should say low alloy steels, being hardened so high. And does having a thicker spine help with overall toughness even if the blade is ground pretty thin? Just curious.
 
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I am down for an endura super blue. Love the endura platform, would buy one in super blue for sure !
 
Is super blue a unique carbon steel because it can hit such a high rockwell hardness? I guess I just don't hear of alot of non stainless, or perhaps I should say low alloy steels, being hardened so high. And does having a thicker spine help with overall toughness even if the blade is ground pretty thin? Just curious.

any carbon/tool steel with the same or approaching carbon level will get as high, keep in mind AS is almost 1.5% carbon with few alloys to use it. the steels are not very common though, C130 and 145SC comes to mind, there are a few others. but honestly, even if the geek in me doesn't agree, i don't want AS at 65hrc for an EDC knife, that's pretty much the limit for the steel and using it with 15-20°/side bevel would clearly be a waste, it would make a very specialised slicer. it's pure bliss in the kitchen though but already some care is needed (end grain wood boards and a light hand )
 
any carbon/tool steel with the same or approaching carbon level will get as high, keep in mind AS is almost 1.5% carbon with few alloys to use it. the steels are not very common though, C130 and 145SC comes to mind, there are a few others. but honestly, even if the geek in me doesn't agree, i don't want AS at 65hrc for an EDC knife, that's pretty much the limit for the steel and using it with 15-20°/side bevel would clearly be a waste, it would make a very specialised slicer. it's pure bliss in the kitchen though but already some care is needed (end grain wood boards and a light hand )
Very cool, thanks for the reply.
 
Is super blue a unique carbon steel because it can hit such a high rockwell hardness? I guess I just don't hear of alot of non stainless, or perhaps I should say low alloy steels, being hardened so high. And does having a thicker spine help with overall toughness even if the blade is ground pretty thin? Just curious.
Like Pwet said, plenty of simple carbon and alloy(non stainless) can go to 65HRC, good old 1095 can do it, just not done often. Aogami Super is still unique, for other reasons(designed for knives and cutting tools, ultra pure, etc). It was designed for high hardness, and unlike 1095 and other plain steels it has few alloying elements to form actual carbides - W, Mo, V.

Thicker edge helps with sheer strength, since there is more metal supporting that edge. Again, that deba which is used for chopping, is about 62HRC, although I've seen debas up to 64HRC too.
For the edc, I dunno, I guess depends on the EDC use. I have never had problems with 67HRC William Henry ZDP-189 folder including wire and aluminum can cutting tests. If I was too concerned with chipping, I'd still grind 10 per side primary bevel and add 15 secondary, or whatever depending on the intended use. IMHO, folders are folders, and I have no real need to have thick edges on them, or ask for extra toughness.
 
Like Pwet said, plenty of simple carbon and alloy(non stainless) can go to 65HRC, good old 1095 can do it, just not done often. Aogami Super is still unique, for other reasons(designed for knives and cutting tools, ultra pure, etc). It was designed for high hardness, and unlike 1095 and other plain steels it has few alloying elements to form actual carbides - W, Mo, V.

Thicker edge helps with sheer strength, since there is more metal supporting that edge. Again, that deba which is used for chopping, is about 62HRC, although I've seen debas up to 64HRC too.
For the edc, I dunno, I guess depends on the EDC use. I have never had problems with 67HRC William Henry ZDP-189 folder including wire and aluminum can cutting tests. If I was too concerned with chipping, I'd still grind 10 per side primary bevel and add 15 secondary, or whatever depending on the intended use. IMHO, folders are folders, and I have no real need to have thick edges on them, or ask for extra toughness.
Thanks for the info. I too prefer really thin edges and blades for edc. I am not really on the the trend of 1/2" blades haha.
 
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