Well put it this way. I don't flip for hundreds of reps to "break in " any of my knives. In the old days they said you needed to break in an auto engine before driving it hard or running long distance at constant engine speed. Now due to BETTER MORE PRECISE MACHINING AND MANUFACTURING and better materials this is unnecessary you just drive it.
I personally feel a machine if made and adjusted well can just be used. That it shouldn't work like crap when you first get it in the hopes that one day it might perform as advertised.
I have heard there are air guns where that is the exception.
I don't know anything about air guns.
Good (well made) knives should just work. I know it can happen. My Spyderco Endura 4 was one of them. My Ritter Grip from Benchmade was another, my Spyderco Gayle Bradley One.
there are others.
Let me give you a comparison though. This is a knife that I have a lot of respect for and really enjoy. The Cold Steel Voyager; the little one.
The lock back was so difficult to use when I got it. I finally took one of those handy trigger clamps, I don't know what you call them . . . looks like this
https://www.zoro.com/irwin-industrial-tool-co-bar-clamp-12-cap-3-14-throat-depth-1964718/i/G5478490/
I took one of those clamps and a round rubber coated thing and clamped the lock release down past where one could possibly squeeze it using ones thumb. I did this repeatedly over a few days and finally got the lock release to work with less force required.
Is that break in ? ? ? I think I just bent the spring down to lessen the spring rate.
I didn't have to do that on the Endura 4, it just worked right out of the box.
If I have a knife that doesn't drop, I don't flip it hundreds of times I loosen the pivot a skosh and or lube it and or other wise adjust the knife. If the pivot gets too lose I tighten the pivot.