engraving the janese tang

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artcreek

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Does any one have any experience in doing kanji signatures on blade tang. I have done some in wood but a tang is a little harder literally. I usually use the edge of a sharp chisel tilted so only one point penatrates the wood .It does a beautiful job , but what kind of chisel can make a good impression into hardened steel It would have to be in the high 70s most tangs are 40s .Any one have any experience with this technique JIM
 
Thanks sam, I assumed it would be easier than I thought. somtimes the tangs get a little hard .No harm in asking better to ask than ruin good laminated chisel! As Confuscious would say . domo JIM
 
AHH FOR SURE! I think often times they were wrought iron or very low carbon steel, as the tang is where the handle is welded onto when they forge the billet and sword.
 
Jim, I don't think it's the best idea to use a good woodworking chisel on metal. Consider checking on the various engraving forums for more help.

Best of luck, Craig
 
Please use the proper tool !!! A graver's chisel is designed to cut steel. They come in a large assortment of shapes and for harder steels they also are available in carbide .You might also want a graver's hammer.
 
If I am cutting into steel I first make sure that the steel is annealed, or at least as soft as I can get it, and use a jewelers graver with the tang cut off flat and torch drawn tapped gently with my repousse hammer (1.5 ounce with a big flat face) sometimes I make engraving tools out of square or round drillrod (W-1 I think) with the contact end torch hardened and lightly tempered. Three important things, make sure your cutting edge is harder than the steel you are cutting, make sure that your cutting point geometry supports what you are doing (30-45 degree included angle) and take shallow passes. Of course wear your safety glasses, emergency room visits for steel in the eye suck.

-Page
 
I have a little experience doing this (meigiri - or brnd cutting) on other types of japanese tools: woodworking chisels, knives, planes etc.

The little tool you want is called a "tegane". If you are right handed you usually hold it in your left hand and tap with a hammer in your right. Sounds backwards, but that's how most folks do it - I have heard that some do it the other way. Takes some practice as you might imagine. Really helps if you understand japanese kanji stroke order and do a little calligraphy (I don't do either so my future is bleak :( ).

You could use a cold chisel, but I make my own from W1 drill rod or square stock. One key is that you need to be able to smoothly rotate the tool between your fingers so the top part should be a fairly small diameter. Another key is the cutting angle - which depends on the material you're working on. Really blunt for saw hard material, 120deg or more, 90-100 deg for unhardened steel or iron. You also need a little anvil/clamp setup to hold your work steady - mine would not work for swords.

Here's a picture of my setup, based on a small saw-tuning hammer. You can see two tegane perched on top of the anvil.

Picture #4
 
All the above.
The burin (steel chisel) is held in the left hand (for right handed people) and tilted slightly. It is struck with a small hammer or mallet.The tang is either marked prior to hardening, or is drawn to a soft temper after hardening.The burin is hardened and tempered as any normal engraving tool.W-1, 1095, or HHS will all work. You don't want it too hard or it will chip too easily. A little practice and trial and error will give you what works in your hands.Most kanji are made with simple strokes, and should not require great engraving skill.
Stacy
 
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