enlighten me on the edge pro and mirror edges

zyhano

zyhano

Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
1,593
Jojo,

so recently I started reading a littlebit more about the edgepro and it seems that a lot of posts talk about the mirror finish on the edge.

I strop to get a mirror edge and I can get a pretty decent shining edge on waterstones too and I am curious on how you guys achieve a mirror edge on the EP.

Is it easier to get a mirror edge with less fine stones than normal because you're not freehanding and therefore getting a better scratch pattern and reflective surface?

Can you get a mirror edge with the EP stones only? Or do you need other stuff?

From what grit and upwards do you get it to a mirror edge, and what stuff is it that you use for the mirror edge?

thanks in advance guys!:thumbup:
 
There are all degrees of a 'mirror' finish...

While you can get a nice reflection from the 600 grit stone, you get a much clearer one from the 2000 grit polishing tape, and an even deeper, more perfect reflection after a 10,000 grit tape and stropping. These latter differences are more easily discernible using a jeweler's lupe. They aren't difficult to get using any guided system. No 'trick' involved, just care. Just as easy to do with a DMT Aligner or GATCO clamp and a succession of grits and polishes. Getting an accurate (read: able to read print clearly in the reflection) mirror finish freehand would be a real skill!

Stitchawl
 
After going up thru the stones I finish off with Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish. I apply some onto a piece of 3M medical tape affixed to a glass-backed strop I made for my EP. Works very, very nice. :thumbup:
 
Thanks guys!
stitchawl said:
There are all degrees of a 'mirror' finish...

While you can get a nice reflection from the 600 grit stone, you get a much clearer one from the 2000 grit polishing tape, and an even deeper, more perfect reflection after a 10,000 grit tape and stropping. These latter differences are more easily discernible using a jeweler's lupe. They aren't difficult to get using any guided system. No 'trick' involved, just care. Just as easy to do with a DMT Aligner or GATCO clamp and a succession of grits and polishes. Getting an accurate (read: able to read print clearly in the reflection) mirror finish freehand would be a real skill!

Stitchawl
Click to expand...
Good info, I'll keep working on the freehand edges, there is still room for improvement. :thumbup:
 
If I take several hours to freehand sharpen a blade using waterstones up to 12000 and a series of strops I can get a nice mirror finish. Not an 'accurate' mirror finish as there will still be some distortion in spots, but you'd only notice them if you used a jeweler's lupe to look at the reflection of printed words.

I can get an 'accurate' mirror finish in less than 30 minutes using an EdgePro. It might not really be any sharper than the edge I get when free handing, but I will get it in minutes rather than hours, and it will be 'prettier.' :D

Stitchawl
 
zyhano said:
Jojo,

so recently I started reading a littlebit more about the edgepro and it seems that a lot of posts talk about the mirror finish on the edge.

I strop to get a mirror edge and I can get a pretty decent shining edge on waterstones too and I am curious on how you guys achieve a mirror edge on the EP.

Is it easier to get a mirror edge with less fine stones than normal because you're not freehanding and therefore getting a better scratch pattern and reflective surface?

Can you get a mirror edge with the EP stones only? Or do you need other stuff?

From what grit and upwards do you get it to a mirror edge, and what stuff is it that you use for the mirror edge?

thanks in advance guys!:thumbup:
Click to expand...


Depending on the steel one can get a really nice finish with just the 1000 grit stone, but the Polishing tapes are the real key to getting a mirror finish with the Edge Pro.

Attention to detail when going up though the stones is critical when wanting a perfect polished edge. :thumbup:
 
singularity35 said:
What does this entail Jim?
Click to expand...

Basically make sure the edge is even at the current grit stone as in smoothed to the current grit before flipping the blade, same thing on the other side and make sure you raise a burr along the whole edge before flipping and changing stones.

Don't remove the bur before changing stones, the next stone will do that for you.

Keep repeating until after you are done with all the stones, leaving the bur change to the tapes.

I can't stress it enough, the edge has to be even and smooth or once you start with the tapes you will have dull spots.

The more you use it the quicker you will become and more consistent.

A note before using the tapes, clean the blade completely before starting with the tapes.

Also change the tapes out once they start to either fill up or they start to get bumpy and loud or you will have scratches in the edge.

If you want the best looking polished edge everything matters.

It all sounds like a lot, but it's really not.
 
Ankerson said:
Basically make sure the edge is even at the current grit stone as in smoothed to the current grit before flipping the blade, same thing on the other side and make sure you raise a burr along the whole edge before flipping and changing stones.

Don't remove the bur before changing stones, the next stone will do that for you.

Keep repeating until after you are done with all the stones, leaving the bur change to the tapes.

I can't stress it enough, the edge has to be even and smooth or once you start with the tapes you will have dull spots.

The more you use it the quicker you will become and more consistent.

A note before using the tapes, clean the blade completely before starting with the tapes.

Also change the tapes out once they start to either fill up or they start to get bumpy and loud or you will have scratches in the edge.

If you want the best looking polished edge everything matters.

It all sounds like a lot, but it's really not.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Jim, I just knew there was a lot more I wasn't getting from your videos. I just copied and saved these tips. :D

cziv said:
Check his video

I just found it. Here it is guys: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymJydg8k_AA
Click to expand...

Thanks, I've been watching Jim's videos a lot since there's nothing else I can do except twiddle my thumbs. I have to wait a long time for priority mail here. ;)


I'm thinking the more I learn before my edge pro gets here the faster I'll know how to get those magic edges. ;) :D
 
ricklee4570 said:
Do you use the polishing tapes dry or do you wet them with water?
Click to expand...

I use them with a LOT of water, sloshing more on with every stroke or two. Ben Dale says to use them dry, but I have a feeling he says this to protect the adhesive rather than for sharpening reasons.

Stitchawl
 
Hi Guys,
I know this thread is about the Edge Pro but I think the Wicked Sharp System should be mentioned here also ! After all there sort of both the same type of systems. The only difference is you sharpen both sides of the blade with the Wicked Edge. The Wicked Edge also has diamond hones for it , wich Ben doesn't like.

I myself own an Edge Pro Apex and find it difficult to use because I find it hard to hold the knife right on the blade table.
The Wicked Sharp system holds the blade for you while you sharpen and polish away.

I know there is at least one member here that posts who ones one. Lets hear from the competition on the same subject. I also know that you can get the same results with just about any system, except the Lansky System. I own one of those also and didn't like it.

If the author of this thread doesn't mind me sort of [ High Jacking] his thread I'd like to see some comparison of the two systems ! Remember with the Wicked Sharp System you sharpen both sides at the same time, cuts down time spent to get to Sharpening Nervana. Also I am thinking of buying one.


Thanks All.
Electric
 
electric said:
.... I also know that you can get the same results with just about any system, except the Lansky System.
Click to expand...

With care and the correct grits of stone or sandpaper, combined with good stropping, virtually every clamp or guide system can produce mirror finishes. It only takes care and attention to the details. EdgePro isn't magic. It just works very well. GATCO or Lansky can produce the same quality edges (if you use the better stones,) but limits the choice of angles. You can produce beautiful mirror finished edges with a DMT Aligner clamp and a succession of wet/dry sandpaper and good strops, not even bothering to use the stones with their guide rods. It isn't magic. It's care and attention to detail.


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
If I take several hours to freehand sharpen a blade using waterstones up to 12000 and a series of strops I can get a nice mirror finish. Not an 'accurate' mirror finish as there will still be some distortion in spots, but you'd only notice them if you used a jeweler's lupe to look at the reflection of printed words.

I can get an 'accurate' mirror finish in less than 30 minutes using an EdgePro. It might not really be any sharper than the edge I get when free handing, but I will get it in minutes rather than hours, and it will be 'prettier.' :D

Stitchawl
Click to expand...
Good point, time is a factor

Ankerson said:
Depending on the steel one can get a really nice finish with just the 1000 grit stone, but the Polishing tapes are the real key to getting a mirror finish with the Edge Pro.

Attention to detail when going up though the stones is critical when wanting a perfect polished edge. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
As in all sharpening jobs of course
Ankerson said:
Basically make sure the edge is even at the current grit stone as in smoothed to the current grit before flipping the blade, same thing on the other side and make sure you raise a burr along the whole edge before flipping and changing stones.

Don't remove the bur before changing stones, the next stone will do that for you.

Keep repeating until after you are done with all the stones, leaving the bur change to the tapes.

I can't stress it enough, the edge has to be even and smooth or once you start with the tapes you will have dull spots.

The more you use it the quicker you will become and more consistent.

A note before using the tapes, clean the blade completely before starting with the tapes.

Also change the tapes out once they start to either fill up or they start to get bumpy and loud or you will have scratches in the edge.

If you want the best looking polished edge everything matters.

It all sounds like a lot, but it's really not.
Click to expand...
Thanks, good info
electric said:
If the author of this thread doesn't mind me sort of [ High Jacking] his thread I'd like to see some comparison of the two systems ! Remember with the Wicked Sharp System you sharpen both sides at the same time, cuts down time spent to get to Sharpening Nervana. Also I am thinking of buying one.


Thanks All.
Electric
Click to expand...

No problem
 
Jim,

When my EP tapes "fill up" I clean them thoroughly with Mother's Mag polish and save them for "final" polishing. :thumbup:
 
Let's say we go beyond the 6000 grit tape on the Pro. Have any of you used the glass insert, and if so, what polish do you use on it? I wonder if the spray on diamond polish would work simply rubbed onto the glass plate? Ultra mirror finish /edge due to the fineness of the diamond and the highly flat surface of the glass?
 
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