entire axe budget blown on scrap metal

E

evildeadedd

Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Messages
83
Like the title says, I have spent all my money for axes on Junk. Everything I buy, the steel is bad and it needs a new handle. I give up trying to pick something useable from eBay, for what I have spent on this scrap, plus the cost of shipping and new handles, I could have saved a couple bucks more and just bought a GFB.
But I still need an axe, so what's the best boys axe I can get for around 50 bucks? I know at that price it is not going to be fantastic, but it is better than the scrap I have now.
 
What where you typing in the search bar? I find that if you type in the name of a good company and the word "old" or "antique",you can get some good heads. Some great companies both in my experience, and from whAT I have heard here on the forums are companies like:
-Plumb
-Collins
-True temper Kelly perfect ( I think that's how you sat it!)
-Sager chemical
-Norlund axe co.
This is just a few of them but you get the point. Also, don't be afraid of a little rust or a dark patina. In act, I would be more sceptical if it DIDN'T have It....

But to answer your question, I think council tools puts out some okay hatchets. Also check out flea markets!
 
I've seen at least a couple of the axes you have picked up recently. They certainly don't appear to be scrap, or junk and you likely won't do better for $50.

Taking a handle off of an axe can be a royal pain. I tend to buy mostly lose axe heads because of this. Vise grip pliers, drilling out the wooden wedge, and drifts can help immensity. A drift can be a simple pease of wood that is roughly the size of the eye of the Axe used to push the handle out from the top. Very useful for removing a handle. I've gone as far as drilling through a metal wedge, looping a section of coat hanger through it, tying it to a tree and yanking the wedge out with brute force. Point being don't give up and be creative.

For sharpening, is the bit profiled? It should have a relatively smooth transition from the edge to the cheeks shaped somewhat like a football, or convexed (hate the sport but its a good example). Use a file by hand to accomplish this if need be. Once that is done get a burr formed, the edge should feel like crap that is normal. Then move on to sandpaper backed with leather to finish off the edge and that should remove the burr leaving you with a nice working edge. Don't go crazy as its an axe not a scalpel. Yes it is cool to have an axe that clean shaves your face as smooth as a babies bottom but it is not needed.

If you run into an issue ask the forum, chances are we have run into a figured out the same issue at some point. Finally try to enjoy this part of the hobby, for many of us it is a lot of the fun. Focus on getting one axe done so you have what you need and then move on slowly from there. Pick an axe and post about the issues it is presenting you with pictures, we'll walk you through it.
 
What do you mean by the steel is bad?
The ones of yours I've seen look like they should have plenty of life left in them.
 
It seems unlikely you got 4 bad heads. Maybe post them all in the same thread so people can see what you mean. Rehandling is not a big deal...in fact I expect to have to rehandle all my old heads...either from rot or from someone else's terrible hang job. Like I said post them up and note the issues you're having in this thread. Maybe someone can help you out.

However, if you're buying new, a Council Tool boys axe or a Husqvarna would be my choices in the $50 range. Either should be great.
 
They ar not all necessarily scrap. was being rather overly dramatic I guess. just very frustrated. the first. couple I bought were just too heavy for what I am looking for, and were the result of not understanding how eBay works. this boy's axes the perfect size as far as weight, but the steel just doesn't feel right. I've had sharpened all my pocket knives for 30 years, so I would think that I would be able to put a serviceable edge on an axe, unless the skills are completely foreign to one another. but I can't seem to get any type of edge on the steel. I did expect to have to at least rehang the head on the handle, was just hoping that I would be able to save the old one.
 
Want a descent, basic American made axe with good steel? I'd say look at Counsel Tool. Their basic Boys Axe will do a good job for you.

Tom
 
Double Ott said:
Want a descent, basic American made axe with good steel? I'd say look at Counsel Tool. Their basic Boys Axe will do a good job for you.

Tom
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Yes. It may need a little work on the wedge, but they are good axes out of box, esp. If you get them from a place that sharpens. My sons Hudson bay limbed several cedars and a couple of black locusts, and it still shaves thanks to edge Omaha knife put on it. I rarely make one that sharp, but it was interesting to see it hold up like that.

I've had good luck even with cheap/junk axes, but profiling and sharpening or reprofiling and sharpening can take hours even with good files if the steel is hard.
 
I don't know what it's like there but I can pick up a nice vintage axe at just about any flea market for less than $20. I picked up a 3 1/2 lb. True Temper head last weekend for $5 and a made in the USA Craftsman hatchet in excellent condition for $10. I have had friends who do well at yard sales but I lack the patience or luck for them.
 
What exactly are you looking for in the steel? How are you determining that it is junk? I don't understand what you mean by it doesn't feel right. What wood are you cutting?
 
Evildeadedd- mind if I ask what you are using to sharpen your axes? Just curious as I have files that remove a lot of metal at once (leaves marks deeply) some that I use to remove the marks from the first, then finer ones that remove very little after that for a final edge.

The big Perds I have will strip steel but I'd never expect to put an edge on something with them.
 
I have a 12 inch mil bastard file, and a lansky puck. Clamp the axe in vice, run the file on it until the nicks are out and there a bur on the edge. Then I take the puck to it to try and finish the edge, but if I try to put a cutting edge on it, the blade just starts chipping. I can put an edge about like a butter knife on it, any sharper and it starts to chip. This could for sure be user error, as I said i have never sharpened a n axe before, but the n 30 years of knife sharpening, the only thing I can compare this to is trying to put an edge on one of those decorative knives. You know the katana you can get online for like 10 bucks, or the fancy looking China knives they sell in gas station gift shops for a fiver.
 
evildeadedd said:
... the only thing I can compare this to is trying to put an edge on one of those decorative knives. You know the katana you can get online for like 10 bucks, or the fancy looking China knives they sell in gas station gift shops for a fiver.
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That is an apt description. I'm not sure as far as help atm but your analogy is super clear - trying to sharpen decorative knives made from junk. I understand your frustration now Evildeadedd. Disappointing for sure.
 
Just bums me out, am having hell finding a decent looking 2 to 2.5 pound axe out there. Really liked the feel of this axe, I think it would have made a perfect pack axe for me.
 
evildeadedd said:
Like the title says, I have spent all my money for axes on Junk. Everything I buy, the steel is bad and it needs a new handle. I give up trying to pick something useable from eBay, for what I have spent on this scrap, plus the cost of shipping and new handles, I could have saved a couple bucks more and just bought a GFB.
But I still need an axe, so what's the best boys axe I can get for around 50 bucks? I know at that price it is not going to be fantastic, but it is better than the scrap I have now.
Click to expand...

Something's not right here! It's fairly typical for a buyer to have to (or want to) put a new handle on and clean up/sharpen the blade but that's about it. And from what I hear about all the $5 and $10 prizes folks on here seem to be scoring from estate auctions/garage sales/flea markets/scrap dealers I'd say you weren't looking quite hard enough. Any new GB involves a hefty outlay of moolah and first time you leave it out unattended somewhere it'll disappear faster than a twenty dollar bill on a sidewalk.
 
ED- Have you printed and used an Axe To Grind profile guide for these?
Are your primary grinds flat or convex?

No offense meant, just wanted to make sure these are not stumbling points. Usually I end up thinning back behind the edge on a used axe with a flat grind, then blend over in lines to the edge, switch down through finer files, then carborundum stone, then paper to polish. This creates a smooth convex roll that is sharp but has meat behind the edge.

Bill
 
Question, have you been able to put a sharp edge on one of your other axes using the same tools and techniques? Can you post a picture of the bit as it sits now? The pictures of the boys axe in you other thread show that the axe came with a poor profile. I still prefer using leather backed sandpaper to finish the edges on my axes over a stone, either way one could muck up a fresh edge pretty easily. You can also revert to using the marker trick to see where you are actually removing material.

For the crap in the eye I would start by using a small pry bar to lift up on the head of the screw while using a driver to back it out. Then use thin drill bits to drill the selections of wooden wedge behind the metal ones and larger bits for the wedge inbetween. Then make a drift out of some scrap wood and use that to push the handle out of the eye using the drift against the handle and hiting the other end with a mallet, hammer, or baton. Once the handle is removed the rest of the crap should come out relatively easily. If that all fails as you said the head will slide about halfway off. This should allow you to work just under where the head rest now so that the head can be seated lower without ever removing it. Once it is lower that should make accessing the wedges in the kerf a little easier. If need be you can even cut about a .25" section off the top of the handle leaving the top of the wedges exposed. Just be sure not to cut through the wooden wedge as you will want purchase on it as well.

Sand down the handle and save the dust. Mix the dust with wood glue and use that to fill in the really bad nicks that you mentioned on the handle. Hope that helps.
 
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