entire axe budget blown on scrap metal

Are there pics somewhere that I am just missing? I saw the one in your other thread but that's it.

My thought is this; you're going to get a burr of some kind before you actually get the two bevels to meet. The chipping you describe sounds like you are grinding off the "false" burr (so to speak) and finding underneath that the bevels haven't yet been brought together. So you start in with the stone and it takes even more work and time than the file, when in fact you aren't ready for the stone yet.

I believe the pucks are pretty much the same as any other coarse/fine stone you might find in a hardware store, but I wouldn't use one unless the axe is already pretty sharp. I just use a flat rectangular stone as long as possible (and coarse too), lay the axe on the bench with the edge hanging over, and get into it. The stone is longer and I can get more work done per stroke, but this is only after I've actually got the two bevels to meet (belt sander for me).

As for the handle from your other thread. You'll never get it out without removing the wedges. The eye is tapered so when the handle moves down, with wedges installed, it will get tighter, and the harder you fight it, the tighter it will get. Fighting losing battles is a great way to get frustrated.
 
evildeadedd said:
I've had sharpened all my pocket knives for 30 years, so I would think that I would be able to put a serviceable edge on an axe, unless the skills are completely foreign to one another. but I can't seem to get any type of edge on the steel.
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You've got to be doing something wrong. Virtually any vintage axe head will take a good edge. Perhaps you should have one of the guys on the forum here sharpen one for you.
 
evildeadedd said:
I have a 12 inch mil bastard file, and a lansky puck. Clamp the axe in vice, run the file on it until the nicks are out and there a bur on the edge. Then I take the puck to it to try and finish the edge, but if I try to put a cutting edge on it, the blade just starts chipping. I can put an edge about like a butter knife on it, any sharper and it starts to chip.
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That sounds like a bad heat treat or lousy steel. Rare to find one like that in my experience.
 
I'm having a hard time following this thread. Over the last 15 years I've purchased a LOT of axe heads at antique stores and on Ebay. Almost all needed to be re-handled including the ones that came with handles, as those were poorly hung to begin with. Mostly TT and Plumb, but plenty of others. NONE had bad steel and none were wall hangers. They went into the woods and went to work. Their steel didn't chip and their edges didn't fold. None have ever come back to me with a complaint (though a few were brought back dull or with minor nicks from going into the ground after missing their target).
 
I for one would like to know the brands of these axes that have such bad heat treats. I'm always looking for a cheap axe when I go to flea markets and such, so it would be good to know which brands you are finding to be so bad, so I can avoid them! I have a few old axes that have no discernible markings on them and they all sharpen fine, all I use is a belt sander for profiling and either a stone or Lansky puck for finishing the edge. That gets them well past any sharpness I'd expect from a cheap old axe. My grandpa gave me a very old Plumb BSA hatchet when I joined scouts and it still serves me very well so I'd say start with them for finding a good axe brand.
 
I've not used a belt sander on axes so I can't comment on that. Haven't used a puck on my axes. Will try it out - seems like finishing work? I'm hoping someone has words there.

Evildeadedd, sounds like you get your knives sharper than I do for the most part. I wonder if the difference in sharpening style/tools for each is a factor? The tools I use aren't anything special but they seem to work on every axe head I've come into. You mentioned a 12" bastard file?

Are you pushing from bit to cheek/poll as perpendicular as possible? Different files do have different cutting attributes. Maybe you need a finer, shorter even (for control), file than the one you mentioned?

Here are two pics of what I currently use just for reference in my rambling:



For large metal removal such as bad mushrooming or on unhardened spots I use a vixen cut with a full-length handle. Removing a lot of hardened steel, I use a big Pferd - it strips it off like a cheese grater, leaves cut marks though. It's helpful for larger reprofiling of a bit.



That is when I hit it with the bastard file, smooth out the marks/finer removal, then a smaller file of the same cut.

You're results may vary. :)

That is the process I used for this unmarked head. Initially thought the steel was mediocre but my friend has split a lot of fit and juniper with it and it's holding an edge well:


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The questions posed are just something to cross off as issues. There are a lot of people who know more than me, probably only need one file, and can sharpen an axe to shaving sharp.

There are posts/threads here that really get into the process/technique of sharpening axes. Some really good ones in fact.

I hope your axe heads turn out to be of decent quality and usable for you. If they are the ones you posted pictures of in other threads then they looked in good shape and of nice pattern.

If they are actually poor quality or prove to have bad tempering, then you should tell yourself that getting two bad ones just means you're statistically sure to get a good one!

I know, axe forum blah blah :D
 
Omaha Knife may still have some forest service boys axes. They put a little extra love on them for a few dollars extra. Can't see where you could do better on a new axe.
 
Walk into a Husqvarna dealership and handle their axes. The heads are contracted out to a famous Swedish manufacturer and the prices are good.
 
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