Eooxy Failure-Help Please

amoretti said:
Thanks for all the help with my question re. epoxy.

I have decided to go with Locktite E-120HP. The irony is I had some on hand but thought it was only good for non-porous material. There seems to be a date on the stuff I have which I bought 3 +/- years ago. The date is 2008/08. I wonder if this is an expiration date?? Anyone know?? Just to be safe I will order frersh stuff from McMaster Carr.

Again-Thanks for the help I will visit often.

John in Wyoming
Click to expand...

John,
I think we've met. Is your last name Anderson?
 
amoretti said:
Thanks for all the help with my question re. epoxy.

I have decided to go with Locktite E-120HP. The irony is I had some on hand but thought it was only good for non-porous material. There seems to be a date on the stuff I have which I bought 3 +/- years ago. The date is 2008/08. I wonder if this is an expiration date?? Anyone know?? Just to be safe I will order frersh stuff from McMaster Carr.

Again-Thanks for the help I will visit often.

John in Wyoming
Click to expand...

Yup, it's the expiration date...Aug '08. Good call on ordering the fresh stuff.:thumbup:
 
Resurrecting an older thread, sorry:

I think I should have read this thread before my recent trip to Walmart for epoxy. :) Oh well, back to the big box.
 
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One further note. The pin holes should be drilled through the tang before heat treat. The pin holes in the liners and scales should be drilled before glue up. Part of the glue up is to coat all surfaces including the pin holes and pins. I believe this procedure could be considered the standard. I have yet to have any problems with scales shearing or even leaking after 15 or more years of field use. I also use the slow curing epoxy and leave it over night. I don't trust the quick stuff. My 2 cents.
 
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