Epic Lock Stick

M

mobilerd

Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
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I have at least a dozen frame lock knives and a few have had minor lock stick out of the box. All went away for the most part with use. Well this mourning I got my new K2 in the mail and as stated in post title the lock stick is EPIC! My thumb is strong from opening folders for years, but not strong enough to disingauge the lock! Never had a frame lock that I had to use two hands to close. I've worked the lock probably a hundred times in the last couple of hours with no noticeable improvement. Would love to hear from K2 owners on lock stick. Can this be resolved by me or should it being taking a trip to Golden Colorado USA Earth.
 
I have experienced pretty bad titanium lock stick, but never that epic.

In my experience, it just takes time and pencil lead (graphite). Time mostly.
 
On a happier note I just sliced some squash and onions and the K2 (as I've heard) is a slicing machine. May take it camping for food prep, more compact than a fixed blade chefs knife.
 
Wolverine666 said:
What exactly is the cause of lock stick on titanium frame locks ?
Click to expand...

It usually is galling, titanium is noted for that issue.
CRK does a heat treat on their lock bar face to prevent galling or sticking.

I suggest some lube like Nano-Oil,,, that may help.

Regards,
FK
 
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I have found that coloring the face of the lock tang with a sharpee marker virtually eliminates the lock stick and then allows the lck to break in. If it starts to stick again just recolor it with the marker again.
 
The k2 I got today is stuck beyond belief as well. Only worked it like 10 times. And it's not the reassurance type of stick like on an Emerson. It's full blown 2 handed. I used sharpie on Emersons before maybe I'll try it here. For less than $150 I'll try to work with it. It's a beast
 
That's why I haven't bought one at the reduced price. With my luck I would probably get one like that.
I was going to buy, but then when I searched for reviews there where way to many out there with the same lock problem. Way more than with any other RIL I've ever searched for.
Looks like they would be awesome slicers though, for sure. I'm sure most are good, and those that gets a good one has gotten a very good deal at the new price.
 
I'd try using a q-tip soaked in nail polish remover to clean the lock face and the end of the lock bar, in my experience a little oil on the lock face can cause such epic lock stick.

Pencil lead will help but oil can make it worse.
 
I've had lock-stick on various framelocks. Using pencil or Sharpee has never worked for me. I know that the K2 is available now at a blow-out price, and I would buy one IF it were smaller overall. However, I have no use for a knife this large, although I'm sure it's well built, and the blade-steel is just AMAZING.
 
It was a super discounted price. I will see how it works out. If the stick remains I can use it as basically a fixed blade for food prep. From all I've researched the 10 V is the bomb. Ultimately would Sal chime in on this?
 
I've had 2 knives with mad 2 handed lockstick. A medford and a strider. Both turned into some of the sweetest operators after the break in. Well worth the week of pain.
 
Mine was epic.
It has loosened over time to where it can closed with one hand...but it still sticks.
The good thing is that it sure won't close on your fingers. :)
 
I just wander why Spyderco didnt carbidize it?
When done with Tungsten, virtually eliminates lock stick.
Correct?
 
Does the K2's "zig-zag" cutout of the lock bar have anything to do with its lock sticking ?

Of the two Nirvanas I have , one has just a little lock stick and the other has none at all. The one with lock stick has just a slight case of it. The lock is still easily disengaged with one hand.

Question : if the RIL handle of a knife was made of a different material such as aluminum or stainless steel , would lock stick still be a problem ? Or does this condition pertain to mainly titanium ?

And what is "galling" ?
 
Galling is when a metal (ti in this case) gets marred and distorted since it is up against a dissimilar metal of different hardness. Generally speaking, ti is a soft metal. This is why knives like the Domino have a steel insert on the lock bar. I remember seeing a video of Eric explaining why they use the insert on smaller models but not larger models but I forget the explanation.
 
I applied ParkTool Polylube 1000 for bike parts. All problems on multiple knives are gone.
 
The K2, like Spyderco's other Ti framelocks that don't have inserts, is actually carburized to harden the lock face. However, I do remember reading in a thread on this same issue that Farid intentionally introduced a tighter fit on the lockbar (as well as a long travel) in order to ensure a strong lock up. I'll have to see if I can dig up the thread where he talked about the design intention behind the lock stick.
 
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