epoxy alternatives

Huntsman Knife Co. LLC.

Huntsman Knife Co. LLC.

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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Hey guys,

I use mechanical fasteners on almost all my blades and only use epoxy to prevent water and grime from getting under the tang and causing rust.

Epoxy is such a pain to use and is very toxic so I'm trying to find an alternative product to basically put between the scale and tang to prevent rust.

Has anyone found any products that could possibly fit this bill?
 
Thin rubber gasket material.
Silicone RTV uses acetic acid to cure, and it will cause corrosion.
 
Other than switching to stainless steel, I don't think you'll find to many options more effective/efficient, or longer lasting than epoxy, other than perhaps other similar non-water soluble adhesives.

I suppose you could try Parkerizing or cerakoting the blades, or maybe spray them with a clear coat or maybe some other kind of laquer before the handles? I know there are one or two laquers marketed as rust inhibitors. Maybe dip the tangs, let dry, then apply your handle and finish as normal?
 
Cyanoacrylate or some of the good locktite products makers are using

Get some of the good stuff
 
Keep in mind it's not just moisture that you're trying to keep away from the steel it's oxygen. Oxygen is what oxidizes metal. Anything that is fairly gas permeable isn't going to stop the rust.

With that said a coating of the types already mentioned are probably your best bet but most of them are no less toxic or easier to apply than epoxy. The upside to them is they make it easier to take off scales with mechanical fasteners if that is important to you.

I believe I remember a thread a ways back where someone tried a neoprene based material but I don't remember the results.

On another note, thank you Bill Deshivs for that nugget about RTV. I've seen it recommended a few times in past threads like this but didn't know about the acetic acid content.
 
Not all rtv products contain vinegar. If you can smell it, don't use it on metal. We used rtv on aircraft quite a bit but for corrosion prevention we did not use vinegar based rtvs.
 
AVigil said:
Cyanoacrylate or some of the good locktite products makers are using

Get some of the good stuff
Click to expand...

Robert L Sr said:
Not all rtv products contain vinegar. If you can smell it, don't use it on metal. We used rtv on aircraft quite a bit but for corrosion prevention we did not use vinegar based rtvs.
Click to expand...
Ok, hopefully this isn't too much of a thread necro.

I use flared tube rivets to hold on slab handles. They aren't going anywhere, so I need to seal out moisture more so than bonding the tang to the handle material. I've been on the lookout for something that I could squeeze out of a tube or cartridge and lay down a small bead, that wouldn't require mixing like epoxy. I've used Loctite Stik N Seal outdoor adhesive and have been reasonably pleased with the results, but am, of course, open to better solutions. I picked up some JB Weld Black RTV sealant on a whim, then did a search and found this thread. Obviously, I need to check and see if it uses acetal acid before I try it.

AVigil - Do you know which in particular Loctite products are the "good stuff"?

Robert L Sr - Do you have specific RTVs you can point me toward?
 
James,

Loctite 324 is used by a lot of guys. Very strong like epoxy but bonds in minutes
 
Thanks, Adam! I'm looking at the 324, and it mentions "when used with Loctite Primer 7075 is ideal for large gap applications". Does that mean that you need to lay down a base of the primer first, or is that just if you want to fill a large gap? Basically, if I want to try this would I just need to get the 324, or also buy the 7075 primer?
 
I've never actually used it but from what I understand the primer goes on one surface and the adhesive goes on the other surface. It doesn't fully cure for 24 hours but can be worked in just a few minutes.
I know Mike Stewart uses it exclusively so you can contact him for more details.
 
Storm Crow said:
Thanks, Adam! I'm looking at the 324, and it mentions "when used with Loctite Primer 7075 is ideal for large gap applications". Does that mean that you need to lay down a base of the primer first, or is that just if you want to fill a large gap? Basically, if I want to try this would I just need to get the 324, or also buy the 7075 primer?
Click to expand...


i use the 324 and have only used it with the 7075

I think their wording is confusing - ". Loctite 324 is solvent resistant and, when used in conjunction with Loctite Primer 7075™, is ideal for large gap applications. Loctite 324 offers the strength of an epoxy and the speed of an instant, fixturing in 5 minutes."

I believe the activator is required. https://tds.us.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNA...339F34ACD882571870000D65C/$File/AA 324-EN.pdf
 
OP,
In my less than Humble opinion I use G-Flex Epoxy and nothing else to seal my handles & Loveless bolt connectors!

I want something that has a work time of 20-25 and a harding of 30-45 minutes just in case the gremlins are around or I do something brainless like put the scale on upside down etc.. Full hardening is 24h.

G-Flex is for putting together Boats & Airplanes so it has a bit of give to it once hardened so it works great for hard use knives and ones around moisture from water & food like culinary knives are.

J-Flex Epoxy is most likely less toxic that CA and many of the other things Suggested here.

I use disposal gloves, Short paper cups for mixing and Bamboo Chopsticks from our favorite Sushi Restaurant. Which can all be disposed of. Then any clean up needed on my Parallel Pliers/ screw driver etc or the front of the scales can be done with just a little Acetone and old T-shirt rags. PS, I Wear a clean set of the gloves when handling the Acetone and I wear my respirator at All times in my shop included Epoxy & Clean up work!
 
3M 5200 should work. It is a flexible sealant and adhesive. Be sure to tape up everything you don't want the 5200 on, as it is unbeliveably messy. It gets on and sticks to everything. It is used to seal underwater thru hulls on boats.
 
I hadn't thought of 5200 - don't put that stuff on anything you might wish to take apart!! Good stuff.
 
From Rhinoknives:
OP,
In my less than Humble opinion I use G-Flex Epoxy and nothing else to seal my handles & Loveless bolt connectors!

I want something that has a work time of 20-25 and a harding of 30-45 minutes just in case the gremlins are around or I do something brainless like put the scale on upside down etc.. Full hardening is 24h.

G-Flex is for putting together Boats & Airplanes so it has a bit of give to it once hardened so it works great for hard use knives and ones around moisture from water & food like culinary knives are.

J-Flex Epoxy is most likely less toxic that CA and many of the other things Suggested here.

I use disposal gloves, Short paper cups for mixing and Bamboo Chopsticks from our favorite Sushi Restaurant. Which can all be disposed of. Then any clean up needed on my Parallel Pliers/ screw driver etc or the front of the scales can be done with just a little Acetone and old T-shirt rags. PS, I Wear a clean set of the gloves when handling the Acetone and I wear my respirator at All times in my shop included Epoxy & Clean up work!


I agree with this. Epoxy is not "highly toxic". It is a common chemical adhesive. It is very inert once cured, and the peroxides in it are probably the most active chemicals uncured. Wear rubber gloves, use denatured alcohol to clean up uncured resin, dispose of all paper towels and discarded resin properly. It is as simple as that.

There probably isn't a better general use hobby grade adhesive anywhere than epoxy. I recommend T-88 or G-flex for knife work
 
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