epoxy alternatives

Silicone - that's along list ! sealers , adhesives ,one or two part, special types like those for electronics [will not corrode anything on a circuit board]
Loctite - there are TWO lists ! Hardware types and industrial types .Most don't know the industrial one but there are some interesting materials .My friend made a gear from one , still working after years !!
 
Wondering if anyone's ever tried this...

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For me it's not a matter of fearing toxicity or necessarily wanting a faster set time. It's that the mechanical fasteners are absolutely solid, so all I need is something to seal off moisture. I want to be able to squeeze out an appropriately-sized bead without having to mix a batch of epoxy and spread it on, so will hopefully make cleanup minimal.
 
I'm new to all this stuff but isn't acetic acid just going to etch the metal and cause it to adhere better. Any thought to powder coating.
 
Storm Crow said:
For me it's not a matter of fearing toxicity or necessarily wanting a faster set time. It's that the mechanical fasteners are absolutely solid, so all I need is something to seal off moisture. I want to be able to squeeze out an appropriately-sized bead without having to mix a batch of epoxy and spread it on, so will hopefully make cleanup minimal.
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Well ,You make me thinking...and that is bad ;) Maybe this is solution ..................I don't know how you call this glue , but it is for leather, rubber , plastic ................And I just made quick test with it ............... Hm .............. most likely it better hold then epoxy on metal :eek: It took 3 kg to unstick this little piece of walnut , and I even didn't prepared surface and wait to dry properly ..........It's waterproof , so easy to apply , no mess ...............??????

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Hm...........thread break , glue hold ??

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This handle is glued with same glue .....two years ago I think , and they hold great ...

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On this one I decide to change this rubber cork with wood .It was not easy to take of....I cut with a knife to the metal and part of cork still remains on the metal . On epoxy glued wood handle , if pins are removed with little knock on wood , scale will fall ...........and almost no trace of epoxy on steel ?

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Huntsman Knife Co. said:
Epoxy is such a pain to use and is very toxic so I'm trying to find an alternative product to basically put between the scale and tang to prevent rust.
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you might try a different brand of epoxy. the brands I have using lately have no smell or odor. this is from their MSDS http://www.raka.com/raka 127 900 tabletop superfast.html
6. HEALTH HAZARD DATA:
EYE: Minor transient irritation, No corneal injury is likely.
SKIN CONTACT: May cause allergic skin reaction in susceptible individuals. Prolonged exposure not likely to cause significant skin irritation. Repeated exposure may cause skin irritation.
SKIN ABSORPTION: A single prolonged exposure is not likely to result in the material being absorbed through skin in harmful amounts. The LD50 for skin absorption in rabbits is 20,000 mg/kg.
INGESTION: Low acute oral toxicity; LD50 (rat) greater than 400 mg/kg. No hazards anticipated from ingestion incidental to industrial exposure.
INHALATION: Vapors are unlikely due to physical properties. Not a problem unless healed to high temperature.
 
When I mentioned 3M 5200, I was only thinking about it's sealant ability. It is also an excellent adhesive. However, Stacy is correct. For an adhesive/sealant with some flexibility (needed because the scales and blade will expand and contract at different rates with temperature changes), G-flex is the best.
 
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