epoxy or solder?

Z

ZSilver

Joined
Dec 31, 2007
Messages
25
i soldered my 1st blade but i was just want to know if anyone uses epoxy on the hilt instead of solder?
 
You mean the gaurd for a hidden or stick tange knife? I do just about all my hidden tange knife gaurds the solderless way. I like JB weld, and if done rite there won't be any of the epoxy showing, just a nice tight fit and the epoxy acts as a seal. For the end cap or but cap I silver braze a nut on the inside to atach to a threaded stub tange.

I still solder split gaurds, I haven't managed to get zero gap on them yet.
 
The fast setting JB weld is not as strong as the original slow set stuff. I have used it on projects and regretted it.

Look on the package, it lists the strength.

I wouldn't use it in areas where strength is an issue
 
While Nathan is right about all epoxy not being equal in strength, the solder/epoxy on a guard should not be about strength at all. It is there to seal the guard and tang from moisture creeping up from the blade. Epoxy (JB Weld) works as well as solder if applied to a properly fitted guard. The guard should be slotted to a near perfect fit with a few thousandths clearance.At this clearance, solder works perfectly (assuming the surfaces are clean and smooth). Since most folks don't get the fit that close, JB Weld does a good job of filling the gaps and uneven spaces.

The thing you want to strive for is a snug fitting guard that is solid BEFORE you apply any solder or glue. In cases where the guard can't be soldered and polished after assembly JB Weld is often the only practical solution.
Stacy
 
I use the method of guard fitting that I saw on Terry Primos' tutorial. fit the guard until it slides up to less than 1/2 inch from the shoulders and drive it on. I then drive it off, apply the JB Weld and drive it back in place. Clean up wih JB Weld is MCH easier than with solder. You just use a sharpened popsicle stick or other thin piece of wood and then some WD40 and toilet paper or a painters shop rag.
 
jdm61 said:
I use the method of guard fitting that I saw on Terry Primos' tutorial. fit the guard until it slides up to less than 1/2 inch from the shoulders and drive it on. I then drive it off, apply the JB Weld and drive it back in place. Clean up wih JB Weld is MCH easier than with solder. You just use a sharpened popsicle stick or other thin piece of wood and then some WD40 and toilet paper or a painters shop rag.
Click to expand...

This is exactly how I do it also. I love Terrys old tutorial.
A toothpick will take off the excess epoxy. The joint is very close and there is no damage from scaping or buffing to the blade finish and the front of the guard.
 
where is this tutorial at ? i just fitted my first guard, i tried to solder it but after 3 trys i jb welded. cause i kept getting a big mess.
 
I pre drill holes in the tang and guard of the knife and make sure that everything fits and lines up. Then apply epoxy to the surfaces, fit up the guard and drive in the pins. Then set it in a vice and let the epoxy start hardening.

After the epoxy is starting to set up, I scrape away the excess to clean up the guard/tang area and to see that everything has a nice airtight fit. After that I leave it alone for the epoxy to finish setting before doing further work on the handle.
 
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