epoxy paint

T

takao

Joined
Jul 1, 1999
Messages
406
My old hunting pack frame (aluminum) is in need of some new paint, I would like to know what people are using to recondition their old frames.

Thanks Mike
 
Don't know about back pack frames, but where I live I know of several ( powder coat ) shops that do bicycles, etc... Thinking about redoing my bike frame hence this line of thought.
Cost? Haven't a clue, but no clean up on your end.:thumbup:
I've been watching too many chopper and car rebuild shows lately.:rolleyes::D
 
If you're going with spraypaint from the hardware store I might suggest some rustoleum hammered paints. They've proven pretty tough on the projects I've used them on.
 
On aluminum boats (where my experience is), about the most durable to use seems to be an etching primer and something like Endura or Awlgrip. Aluminum boats are bad for corrosion under the paint - that's why so many manufacturers don't paint them at all.

The aluminum oxide that forms on the surface of exposed aluminum is a pretty tough coating in ts own right...
I'm buying a 64 pattern ruck frame (CF surplus) to build up a pack from. They're made of similar tubing and I'm thinking I'll just sand it and leave it unpainted after seeing so many 're-dos' on the boats' hull paint.
 
I'd steer clear of Epoxy paints for this usage. They degrade in direct sunlight due to the UV.

An acryllic enamel should work nicely.
Rustoleum makes a line of industrial enamels that I think well of for such applications. They also make a line of farm implement enamels that work just as well.

You may have to go to a paint store rather than a hardware megastore to get the good stuff.
 
I would look up a powder coat outfit in the area. Have the frame stripped or sand blasted and have them coat it with a custom color
 
Thank you for the Ideas, I don't think we have a powder coat shop on Maui but I'll try to look for one tommorrow.
 
Marine epoxies have to be UV-stabilized because they don't usually get topcoated.
This is a boat I worked on a few years ago, epoxy-over-epoxy. It's been tied up in a saltwater marina since completion in 2003 and still looks brand new (Awlgrip IIRC).
 
takao, take a look at a product from Brownells.com called ALUMA-HYDE and ALUMA-HYDE II. The first is more of a replacement for anodizing on aluminum and the second is a epoxy based finish. Both I've had real good luck with on refinishing old, inexpensive guns instead of sending them in to have them parkerized or blued. It makes for a cheap and durable finish that is easy to repair if needed and works on a variety of metals. The ALUMA-HYDE II comes in more colors and I think it is more durable, but it is a little more of a pain in curing process. Regardless, both are very easy to apply and looks very professional. The only issue I see is that it might not be able to be shipped in the aerosol form outside of the CONUS, so if you have access to a spray gun or airbrush, they do offer an all liquid can.
 
DeadeyeLefty said:
Marine epoxies have to be UV-stabilized because they don't usually get topcoated.
This is a boat I worked on a few years ago, epoxy-over-epoxy. It's been tied up in a saltwater marina since completion in 2003 and still looks brand new (Awlgrip IIRC).
Click to expand...

We tried formulating epoxy paints using UV stabilizers and found they have only limited effect. Most epoxy paint has no UV stabilizers at all.

Awlgrip primers are epoxy. The Awlgrip topcoats are polyurethane. Aliphatic polyurethanes are quite UV stable.
 
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