epoxy rivets

koyote

koyote

Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Messages
5,846
So, sometimes I do them, sometimes I don't. Truth is, I've never tested, nor figred out how to test, what they actually do for a blade.

I like brass, bronze, and steel pins, but all of those materials are a lot less brittle than epoxy, it seems.

So, what's your take on epoxy rivets (the internal kind) and do you use them?
 
The only time I have epoxy rivets is when I drill holes in a tang to lighten it. Epoxy that thick isn't adding any strength to the knife, all epoxies have minimum and maximum bond thicknesses and the thickness of any tang is going to go beyond that specification with most epoxies.
 
I do the same as Acrid. For knives that I've balanced by drilling holes in the tang to lighten it, I put some extra epoxy in the holes of the tang so that it grabs the handle scales on both sides. I don't completely fill the holes, just add enough so that it will be able to reach both sides. After I get the knife all clamped together, I position it on edge to set up. This lets the extra epoxy flow and collect so that it's in the middle and not just all on one side.

For what its worth, I had to remove a set of handle scales from a knife the other day (because of a DOPE!! on my part). I heated the knife until the epoxy let go, but after I pressed the pins out, I still had to use a razor to get through a bit of stubborn remaining epoxy. The toughest part of taking the scales off was where I had dumped the extra epoxy "rivets" into the balancing holes.

--nathan
 
always have and always will . Cannot hurt to give the handle scales more bonding strength . You are epoxying the handles together as well as to the knife tang .
 
I removed a set of G10 handles from my heavy use knife I use for work and camping yesterday. I used 3M 50,000 lb 2 part self mixing clue on them originally. I used 3 aluminum pins for lateral strength, and no extra holes for glue, just 36 grit finish on the tang.

It was not to horrible to pull them off but not easy by any means. They have never came loose from use though. I was hoping it would have been harder to remove them but I just beat the holy ever living crap out of them with a hammer and they popped off. I had to pound out the pins with a punch though.

I wonder if it would have held better if I would have drilled holes in the tang to get the handles to hold on more? The new handles I put on I used grade 8 counter sunk allen heads into 1/4" stainless threaded inserts Seems really strong now.
 
apply the principle of rock bolting in mining. the 3-foot bolt can grab the sides of the hole in the rock throughout its length either by a cement set or by an expanding bolt. the second method (applicable to knife tangs) is to anchor just the end of the bolt using either cement or epoxy. it works just as effectively. so your cured epoxy pin should be at the end of the tang.
 
hank_rearden said:
apply the principle of rock bolting in mining. the 3-foot bolt can grab the sides of the hole in the rock throughout its length either by a cement set or by an expanding bolt. the second method (applicable to knife tangs) is to anchor just the end of the bolt using either cement or epoxy. it works just as effectively. so your cured epoxy pin should be at the end of the tang.
Click to expand...

Do you mean on a hidden tang knife?
 
So the rock bolting comment adds a new question- If we do get a benefit from epoxy rivets, given the maximum bond thickness of a given epoxy, are a few 1/8 holes going to work better, say, than a few large holes?
 
koyote said:
So the rock bolting comment adds a new question- If we do get a benefit from epoxy rivets, given the maximum bond thickness of a given epoxy, are a few 1/8 holes going to work better, say, than a few large holes?
Click to expand...

I don't know that answer but I think a bunch of small ones would be better . I usually drill about 8 1/8 holes and then contersink them all . It maybe overkill but does not take that much time and cannot hurt .
 
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