epoxy then shape or shape and then epoxy?

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Mar 6, 2007
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I used to epoxy my handles before shaping them. I ran into issues like hitting the blade while shaping and have since started pinning the handles on and then shaping them to about 90% before epoxying, that way if I slip up I can make fixes.

Now, I'm running into clamping issues. Since the handles are contured when I epoxy them my clamps slip and slide up, down and around the handle and it takes a while to get a good hold.

What method do you use?

With my limited experience I have run into issues either way.
 
Sandwich your scales together and sand the front portion of the scales and then epoxy. You can finish the rest once attached.
 
I shape first then epoxy too.Most of the time I'll keep the scales together with a drop or 2 of cheap crazy glue.when your ready just tap them or give em a twist to pop the glue.I have also ruined un-stabilized wood like this so be careful :foot:
 
The way I've been doing it is to epoxy one scale onto one side of the tang, let it cure, drill the pin holes out and cut it to shape roughly with the bandsaw. Then I epoxy the other scale on and drill the holes through and roughly cut it out around the tang with the bandsaw. After that, I take the 1x42 and sand the scales flush with the tang. I shape out the handle, put the pins in and start putting the finish on it and the blade. Maybe this isn't the typical way of doing it, but it works for me.
 
You may want to use less clamping pressure. Try some spring clamps, they'll give you a fine bond and will clamp your contoured surfaces better.

I shape handles both ways.
 
You could try using rubber bands to clamp the handles. As AcridSaint says, epoxy doesn't need much pressure. Put plastic wrap under the bands to keep them from sticking.
 
The way I've been doing it is to epoxy one scale onto one side of the tang, let it cure, drill the pin holes out and cut it to shape roughly with the bandsaw. Then I epoxy the other scale on and drill the holes through and roughly cut it out around the tang with the bandsaw. After that, I take the 1x42 and sand the scales flush with the tang. I shape out the handle, put the pins in and start putting the finish on it and the blade. Maybe this isn't the typical way of doing it, but it works for me.

I've been meaning to try this method but at this point I still do it the other way....with both sides epoxied at once. What I do, is get a really rough profile on the scales about 1/8"-1/4" from the profile of the blade handle. Once I've gotten them this far, I drill one side....all three holes. Then with the top and bottom pin still in the one side (I usually use three), I drill the middle hole of the opposite scale. I then put the middle pin in through through all three layers (handle,tang,handle) and remove the top pin and drill that one through all the way. Repeat for bottom hole as well. Once I have all three holes drilled, I remove the handles and put the pins through just the two handle slabs. This is when I shape the top of the handles (the side that will be on the ricasso) since doing anything in this area after epoxy is a pain. Keeping the pins in the two slabs will also keep them perfectly even on both sides. For a tapered tang, this works too you just have to make sure that when you put the pins in, that you account for the tang taper....another words, when pinned together, there should be a gap between the slabs at the top towards the ricasso. (a shim of some kind sometimes helps this) Then, once the top is nice and even and where I want it, I glue the scales on. The scales are still bigger in profile than the handle but this is OK since we can grind off that area after the epoxy sets. BTW, at this point, only the inside surface of the scales has been sanded....to aid in bonding with the tang. The outside suface still is flat too. (or semi flat if you did a decent job of flattening the scales in the first place) This way the clamps hold well and I have an even surface to start cleaning them up after cure. This is a good time to check for any gaps. (shouldn't be any if the scales and the tang are flat) After cure, sand the scales to fit the profile of the tang...then you can round them and shape them as much as you want. Kind of long winded but that is my method.

Garrett
 
yup ditto, 4X
I tape the blade good near the handle and small bumps dont make it through the tape.
 
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