epoxy

[boneonbone]

I've read that a good epoxy will hold a wood handle on the steel without pins. I want to try putting my black palm wood on the ss blade without rivets does anyone know if this will be a problem? I plan on using JB Weld 50165 epoxy.

 

[Ken H>]

If you're wanting scales that don't show pins, I'd at least use a few hidden pins. Epoxy will hold the scales on for a while, but how long? Hard to tell for sure. I wouldn't chance it.

 

[Sharp & Fiery]

^
This is the way.

 

[Crag the Brewer]

Even using pins isn't good enough (depending on what you want to do with the knife)

fasteners of some sort are best!
*threaded/clamped
*flared tubing
*peened pin heads

 

[Seedy Lot]

My mom has a kitchen knife I made her probaly 4 years ago. I wanted to see how well Gflex epoxy held on scales with no pins or fasteners. The scales are some exotic oily hardwood from a cutting board. The epoxy is still holding but I don't know for how much longer as the scales are looking like they are starting to want to separate from the tang.

I personally am a firm believer in mechanical fastners and quality epoxy.

 

[Michael Black]

Depends on what you're doing with the knife. I make plenty of knives with only epoxy for a hidden tang construction. But most of them I use a pin. If it's a particularly hard use knife I'd recommend some sort of mechanical fastener in addition to the epoxy, like chicago screws, corby bolts, or loveless bolts.

 

[Lorien]

hidden pins is the bare minimum imo

 

[fitzo]

The best way to test the theory is to take the knife and put it in a black zip case. Then toss it on the dashboard on a very sunny day with the windows up. About the time you can see the little heat lines rising off the case, open it and see how well the handle is stuck.

 

[A.McPherson]

With something like black palm, you might want to use a g10 or micarta backing too. My experience with palm is that it really likes to split.

 

[REK Knives]

The best way to test the theory is to take the knife and put it in a black zip case. Then toss it on the dashboard on a very sunny day with the windows up. About the time you can see the little heat lines rising off the case, open it and see how well the handle is stuck.

I've heated system three blade pro epoxy up to 350f for hours in an oven and it won't budge, period. Seems to hold better than gflex in my tests. I actually am trying to use CA glue more because it will at least release with heat and allow blade refinishing lol

 

[weo]

I've read that a good epoxy will hold a wood handle on the steel without pins. I want to try putting my black palm wood on the ss blade without rivets does anyone know if this will be a problem? I plan on using JB Weld 50165 epoxy.

are you talking about scales or a hidden tang / Wa handle type?

 

[Alex Topfer]

Pins also help line everything up when assembling full tang knives.

What is the design of the knife, it's intended use, ect?
I've seen wood turning tools mounted in handles with hidden tangs without any glue, just hammered in there. That works because of how and where they are used

 

[fitzo]

I've heated system three blade pro epoxy up to 350f for hours in an oven and it won't budge, period. Seems to hold better than gflex in my tests. I actually am trying to use CA glue more because it will at least release with heat and allow blade refinishing lol

Dang, that’s some tough stuff. Reason I mentioned the dashboard is the old timers taught me it was about the hottest a carry knife was going to be exposed to, and one of the reasons the epoxies of the day mandated good fasteners. Hunters get sloppy with knives after a hunt…

 

[Oldnretired]

With something like black palm, you might want to use a g10 or micarta backing too. My experience with palm is that it really likes to split.

I agree with a backing of some sort. I've used brass and nickel silver backing epoxied to various materials with good success. Especially oily woods, bone and antler. Palm I don't know but it has seemed to keep bone/antler from separating/shrinking away from wood . A good 24 hr.cure exoxy. I have knife scales and handles as well as thick single action pistol grips decades old that I did myself and haven't had any separating problems. Of course I don't leave them on the dash of my truck or let them sit out in the weather either.

 

[boneonbone]

If you're wanting scales that don't show pins, I'd at least use a few hidden pins. Epoxy will hold the scales on for a while, but how long? Hard to tell for sure. I wouldn't chance it.

Thanks for your feedback.

 

[boneonbone]

I agree with a backing of some sort. I've used brass and nickel silver backing epoxied to various materials with good success. Especially oily woods, bone and antler. Palm I don't know but it has seemed to keep bone/antler from separating/shrinking away from wood . A good 24 hr.cure exoxy. I have knife scales and handles as well as thick single action pistol grips decades old that I did myself and haven't had any separating problems. Of course I don't leave them on the dash of my truck or let them sit out in the weather either.

Black Palm is very splintery so I'm in the process of building a vacuum chamber to stabilize the wood before I go any farther. I have read there are several very good epoxy on the market for bonding wood to metal that are waterproof and not affected by heat. This will be my first attempt at making my scales. I would love to avoid having to use any rivets, time will tell. Thanks for the input.

 

[Ken H>]

What resin are you using to stabilize with? I've used Cactus Juice with decent results. Pull vacuum to >28" Hg for 2 to 3 hrs, then release vacuum and soak for 12+ hrs. The wood usually sinks in water then due to the resin soaked in (after curing in oven and grinding blocks smooth to remove excess resin)

 

[boneonbone]

What resin are you using to stabilize with? I've used Cactus Juice with decent results. Pull vacuum to >28" Hg for 2 to 3 hrs, then release vacuum and soak for 12+ hrs. The wood usually sinks in water then due to the resin soaked in (after curing in oven and grinding blocks smooth to remove excess resin)

I will be using Cactus Juice, I've already dried out the wood and vacuum-packed the pieces until I have my chamber up and running.

 

[Oldnretired]

Black Palm is very splintery so I'm in the process of building a vacuum chamber to stabilize the wood before I go any farther. I have read there are several very good epoxy on the market for bonding wood to metal that are waterproof and not affected by heat. This will be my first attempt at making my scales. I would love to avoid having to use any rivets, time will tell. Thanks for the input.

Stabilization is good to do. Once stabilized you should have no problems with adhesion. I don't know how it reacts to heat but I use expoxy from K&G and I believe it's the same as is used to put together golf clubs which are exposed to warm/hot conditions and alot of stress. They are nice folks there. If heat is a worry, maybe send them an Email and ask. I used their epoxy to assemble a knife handle (hidden tang) with stabilized leather spacers with thin brass spacers on either side as bolsters on a couple of antler knives I put together and I have no worries as to the durability of the finished product. I did a couple of test bolsters first and did manage to finally damage one when I set it on edge on concrete and hit it with a framing hammer. It distorted but didn't de-laminate.

 

[Britt_Askew]

I did some testing back when I first started and if I made sure the steel was real clean before applying the epoxy I could beat the shit out of it with a hammer and it would hold up fine but if the steel was not perfectly clean ( scale, decarb) it didnt take much to knock it loose. That said I would still use some kind of pin / mechanical fastener and not depend on just epoxy.