epoxy

Jack O'Neill

Jack O'Neill

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Nov 15, 2007
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Any recommendations on the best epoxy to use to set handles ? would prefer a slow set .
thanks for any and all suggestions .
 
I really like the K&G two part jars of epoxy. It takes about 3-4 hours to set and 24 hours to cure. The dyes they sell work perfectly with it. BTW, it only takes a tiny bit of the dye powder to tint the epoxy. The color when untinted is a sort of ivory cream color. Using the tan ,white,and black dyes, you can match most woods close. They have the spectral colors,too, if you use liner material. The epoxy is hard and tough. I have never had a problem with it. Use a small scale to mix it by weight for best results.

Stacy
 
I like devcon 2 ton (30 min set time). It gives you enough time to clean up any mess on the handle before it dries, and to get the fit just right before it sets completely. When it sets it seems to be harder than the 5 min version, just an observation of the stuff that has dripped on my bench, no big test or anything.


SHOP TIP: Use a zip lock bag to mix your epoxy in, just put an equil part of hardner and resin in the bag, close it and mix it as if you were kneading dough. when it heats and starts to set, clip a bit off the corner and squese it out on your work piece
Works great for blocks to keep the bubbles out of the mix when putting it in the hole of the block or in stag. It will keep for a whiie in the bag if you need more and when your done throw it away.
 
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I'm pretty sure there was a long thread on this about 18 months ago where one of the forumites did some extensive testing and came up with some interesting results. I don't remember them all. Seems like it was J-B weld for metal to metal, and for wood to metal Acraglas, K & G and Golfworks Club expoxies all came out well. Since then I have used K & G and the Golfworks Club epoxies and been very satisfied. Both have about a 3-5 hour set and 18-24 hour full cure depending on the temperature. Try the search option or maybe someone can remember who did the thread.
 
I use the 15 or 30 minute from Pop's Knife Supply. Takes dye well and great holding. I've had to remove scales before and it's not an easy task...
 
I normally use either Loctite or Devcon epoxy in either 40 minute of one hour forms. Never had a bit of problem I've used E-6000 also on a couple where I was using Recon stone spacers and that worked well also..It give a strong, flexible bond with a bit of " give" to it. Used Elmer's fiberglas marine resin also and that works great, but it's a bit "runny". I remember that thread, there was some great stuff in it and also some total BS.
 
Metal to metal was the Loctite speedbonder 324.

Here is a cut and paste from the thread, I believe it was entitled Glue Wars 2? Two diferent guys were testing, and one of em even made an excel spreadsheet.

Adhesives
For wood handle scales to metal:
Recommended:
Gorilla Glue beat out every other adhesive in every test
Loctite E-120hp
K&G epoxy
Golf shafting epoxy by Golfsmith
Acraglass

Avoid:
Anaerobic curing adhesives
JB Weld

Full tang handles:
Acraglass which was designed almost exactly for this kind of application.

Avoid:
Gorilla Glue or any other polyurethane expanding type glue.

For metal to metal
Recommended:
Loctite Speedbonder 324
JB Weld
PC7

Avoid:
Any CA’s, ie superglues. These have no place in knife making anywhere except to fill flaws in handle material.

For metal to man made materials (ie, G10, micarta, etc)
Recommended:
Loctite 324 Speedbonder or any of the overall use adhesives.

For overall use:
Loctite E-120hp
K&G Epoxy
Golfsmith Golf shafting epoxy
Acraglass (Acraweld is different and was not tested. Acragel was tested and failed)
 
I've been using the Loctite E-120HP ever since the glue wars thread and am very happy
with it. I get it from http://www.mcmaster.com/,
it's not available in local hardware stores. Tracy doesn't carry it because too many people
object to having to buy the plastic applicator gun. I love it because with the applicator gun
and disposable mixing nozzle it's fast and foolproof to use.

When I need color I've been mixing in enamel powders (i.e. colored glass powers). These
also provide a spacer to keep all the epoxy from being squeezed out of the joint (some
epoxy brands such as System 3, sell such filler material separately). Of course enamel
powder might not seem like such a good idea if my wife wasn't an enameler...
 
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