Equipment list for part time maker.

G

Garrett

Joined
Oct 25, 1998
Messages
44
I could use so help. So far on my list is a edge marking device. And since I cut the bevels with a file I'm having a hard time setting the shoulders. Is there a jig out there that would help me keep the shoulders even during filing? And where could I find one? I have a Sheffield's Knivfemakers Supply catalog, they have the edge marker. Also I have been using D-2, I like the edge holding abilitly(twice as good as ATS-34), but I would like to start using stainless. Is there a stainless that has edge holding abilitly near D-2 besides the expensive CPM steels?

TIA,
Garrett
 
You use a vise with hardend jaws to hold the steel while you file the plunge cut. You can also make a simple jig out of a couple of pieces of hardenable bar stock, D-2, O-1, etc. Take two pieces about 3"x1"x.25" file or machine their edges perfectly true to each other. Clamp them together while you do this. Leave them clamped together and drill two holes for bolts through them leaving space for your blade to go between the holes. Heat treat the steel, but do not temper or anneal it. Leave it as hard as possible. to use this, just put the blade blank betweent the two pieces of steel and bolt the two pieces together with the edges where you want the plunge cut. Put this jig in a vise or clamp to a work bench. Just file using the edge of this jig as a rest for the edge of your file. It should hold the line and you should have a nice shoulder.

Boy I hope that makes sense!
 
Yup thats a good one .. I have added a couple dowel pins to mine before ht to bring it back in line. I used precision ground stock and just lined it up before drilling for the bolts and dowels. As for steel. As for stainless Cpm 420v and 440v are good choices.
If you want carbon go with 52100,1084,01.
They should outcut d2 if the heat treat is right

 
As for the edge scriber i used for a long time a homemade "device". When i was finished hacksawing out the blade there was a lot of small pieces of steel. I would use a piece 1cm x6-7cm and grind or file an edge on the 1 cm place. the edge should be aprox. in the middle.Harden it but dont aneal it. Lay the bladeblank on a flat sufface an scribe the edge ones and the turn either the blade or the scriber(not both)an scribe again. Now you should have two grindinglines on the edge. When ever i would change bladethickness i made another one.
This worked allright for me for years. but now i use a scriber i got from a friend who is a toolmaker.
Hope this helps
Jens Ansø
 
For an edge scriber I use a pair of 20.00 calipers from ENCO. There adjustable to any size blade thickness. I just use a black marker on the edge then set the calipers to 1/2 the width of the blade hold one side over the edge and the other on the part I want to mark. Quick and dirty Works great...
 
Try Uncle Al's Knife Supply Catalog online at:

<a href="http://knifeart.com/uncleal.html">Uncle Al's Knife Supply</a>

There are some great filing vises and fixtures that may be of help.

Larry Connelley
KnifeArt.com
 
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