ESEE Blade Thickness -- Case Solved!

As someone who has beaten more than a few knives through more than a few objects (not all of them as dainty and forgiving as wood) I'd not be terribly upset by this one quite frankly. You can't baton through a terribly large log with just a ~6 inch blade. Also when you do exceed your limit, the thing that most frequently goes on a properly designed and heat treated knife (which ESEEs are) isn't the whole blade but rather the steel just behind the edge. The thickness of that knife is more than adequate for its length if the hardest thing you're going to do with it is just baton through reasonable wood.

If however you want to go all Busse on this knife and beat the piss out of it aiming for first particularly knotty gnarled hardwood, driving it with a hardened object like a mini-sledge or the back of an axe, and then move on to breaching via prying/hammer assisted driving and car door hinges I very much agree that you probably are holding the wrong blade for the job.

While I do very much see your argument, I'd not be displeased with the knife. So often knives are built to their warranties. ESEE's warranty is inclusive and generous, use the blade as it was intended, enjoy its superior-than-advertised geometry, and god forbid you do break it know you have another one coming. Whats to worry about?

*edit*
OP solved issue between reading and posting this. Please disregard now-inapplicable portions of this post.
 
hunterseeker5 said:
As someone who has beaten more than a few knives through more than a few objects (not all of them as dainty and forgiving as wood) I'd not be terribly upset by this one quite frankly. You can't baton through a terribly large log with just a ~6 inch blade. Also when you do exceed your limit, the thing that most frequently goes on a properly designed and heat treated knife (which ESEEs are) isn't the whole blade but rather the steel just behind the edge. The thickness of that knife is more than adequate for its length if the hardest thing you're going to do with it is just baton through reasonable wood.

If however you want to go all Busse on this knife and beat the piss out of it aiming for first particularly knotty gnarled hardwood, driving it with a hardened object like a mini-sledge or the back of an axe, and then move on to breaching via prying/hammer assisted driving and car door hinges I very much agree that you probably are holding the wrong blade for the job.

While I do very much see your argument, I'd not be displeased with the knife. So often knives are built to their warranties. ESEE's warranty is inclusive and generous, use the blade as it was intended, enjoy its superior-than-advertised geometry, and god forbid you do break it know you have another one coming. Whats to worry about?

*edit*
OP solved issue between reading and posting this. Please disregard now-inapplicable portions of this post.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input hs5. Besides the fact that I was wrong on the blade thickness, I was looking for a thicker blade not so I could abuse it, but to be a better "splitter" when batoning for kindling.
 
LightGuy said:
Ok Brasso3, you just exposed me for the idiot that I apparently am....I just measured mine at the spine in the handle area, and it is the same - .188". as it moves forward on the knife beyond the handle area, the spine does narrow to 5/32". I would still prefer the full thickness across most of the spine for botonning, but it is what it is - and it is most definitely NOT mis-stated specs.

Case solved, closed. Thanks for enlightening me!

Let the thrashing ensue.....[and updating thread title]
Click to expand...

Understandable mistake, LightGuy, no harm, no foul.
 
LightGuy said:
Thanks for the input hs5. Besides the fact that I was wrong on the blade thickness, I was looking for a thicker blade not so I could abuse it, but to be a better "splitter" when batoning for kindling.
Click to expand...

Should have gone for the ESEE 5 then..... or a Busse some of which come in .32" stock.
 
ESEE does the whole full flat grind and distal taper thing very well. The primary flat bevel goes all the way to the spine. In my 3s, 4s, and my 6 there is a "step" down at the beginning of the grind and it tapers narrower and narrower for the length of the blade although the real serious tapering starts in the last inch or so. An ESEE-5 with that sabre grind or the Laser strike with sort of a semi-sabre and the Junglas are full thickness much farther down the spine.

You should be commended for keeping an open mind during this thread...too many people fly off the handle. This is really the beauty of the ESEE designs. Their geometry is complex and designed for use. They are not afraid to use all different thicknesses. The 3 for example is very thin stock with wide blade...a wicked slicer and very handy.

Yes, if only the ESEE forum where here still you would have gotten an even better explanation. That was one of the most active sub-forums on here and my favorite. Fun, packed with information and knowledge...a real sub-community. That's only gone because the thing was moderated by Jeff Randall the owner of ESEE knives and he was just to busy to keep making knives and do the web work.
 
Its a Full Flat grind, so when ground, the spine got thinner

Im surprised no one realized this

The handle section is the advertiser thickness
 
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