ESEE/ H1 Salt>>>

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Feb 23, 2010
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I'm looking into my crystal ball and what do I see??

And ESEE/SALT H1 (or similar) version divers knife.........

Last week I was out in the ocean with my Izula (go figure) although I didn't take it in the water I put it up against a few simple chores and It rusted bigtime, or course I know its no super steel just had it with me that's all..

The night before we watched 'Shark Week' so naturally you cant help but think of sharks while you're in the water, I was thinking (although I wasn't diving) how nice it would be to have a divers knife with me, in case I was struck by lightning and bit by a shark at the same time I'd be prepared:D.

I went out also deep sea fishing and this time left the Izula and carried a folder, although I must say IF ESEE had a quality Salt knife that's what I'd have..

What say YOU>.??
 
Buy the proper tool for the task. If you are going to be carrying it on water or in an insanely humid environment, of course buy the H1 blade. But I think you know this and you are just asking if you should try and fill the ESEE addiction. Sounds to me like you need a Salt H1 or whatever other H1 knife. Just my take on things. Thanks
 
no, not trying to be mean. if you want H1 you should buy a spydie, which i am gonna do when they come with screw together construction. ESEE also wont because it would create a lot of extra SKUs.
 
I could be wrong, most likely am, but I do believe that H1 and whatever Benchmade calls it (it's the same steel) is proprietary now to Spyderco.

I had a knife made of H1, it was a good steel but I've been in and around saltwater all my life and with even minimal care (rinsing the knife with freshwater when possible) I've had very little issue with even the cheapest of stainless steels rusting on me.

But yea, 1095 is not a good choice for saltwater applications.
 
gundude don't go and ruin it for me,:D I'm dreaming of a crazy looking all around carrying ESEE/H1.. the total WATER knife, take it fishing, diving, boating, ski/tubing.. you name it.......

I obviously have other brands and can never expect one company to provide everything..but you think for what ESEE stands for there would be a rust proof option .. I just like options even within branding..
 
i think you will be lucky to see an ESEE in 440C let alone a "rustproof" steel. would it be cool? sure. will it happen? doubtful.
 
ATS-34 would be cool. 4XX series? meh. not so impressive.

Based on what? A blanket statement like that does little to add to the discussion. I've had several knives in 440C that perform excellent, have good edge retention and re-sharpen easily. My Griptilian 550 is one example. The fact that ESEE will eventually offer another steel choice for their knives other than 1095, that's pretty cool:thumbup: Staying on topic, I have a Salt I and its a great little knife, perfect for boating, fishing etc. It lives in a pocket on my pdf during the summer months.
 
Based on what? A blanket statement like that does little to add to the discussion. I've had several knives in 440C that perform excellent, have good edge retention and re-sharpen easily. My Griptilian 550 is one example.

based on my personal experience to date. (not based on "something i read" or saw a video about) all i can say is that i've been VERY disappointed with the edge retention on any 440C knives i've had in the past. various brands... but perhaps they were all crap. however i don't usually buy stuff that i expect to be crap.

i think the only 440C blades i have now are a pair of Blackjack AWACs.... but i've never really used them enough to see how well they perform.

however my ATS-34 knives have held an edge very well.

no experience yet with S30V or other new wonder steels.

i also know one maker who made multiple identical blades from various steels and then did edge retention testing. i don't remember all the details but he told me the difference in the number of cuts it took to dull each blade. i'll have to get the numbers from him next time we talk.
 
I could be wrong, most likely am, but I do believe that H1 and whatever Benchmade calls it (it's the same steel) is proprietary now to Spyderco.

I had a knife made of H1, it was a good steel but I've been in and around saltwater all my life and with even minimal care (rinsing the knife with freshwater when possible) I've had very little issue with even the cheapest of stainless steels rusting on me.

But yea, 1095 is not a good choice for saltwater applications.

Which BM steel is the same as H1? The Bohler N680 and the X15 are not even close in composition?
 
Apparently it is extremely difficult to put a full flat grind on H1 steel. That is why Spyderco puts hollow grinds on all of the "salt" knives.
 
I carry a RC3 when fishing on our boat out on the Island Sound (Atlantic Ocean). I have to say the RC3 holds up very well to salt water exposure. Using common sense and minimal maintenance I have experienced a few small spots of rust on the blades edge. I did not remove the factory coating & I don’t leave the blade immersed in salt water. I use the blade to cut up bait and clean fish, then rinse in salt water. I wipe the blade off with each use & sharpen/oil the blade at the end of the day. I have also heard of cutting a candle/rubbing candle wax on the exposed edge/steel as a way to protect from rust.
 
Well we saw a collaboration with Becker / Ka-Bar (I say Ka-Bar because they are producing the knife), so we can never rule out a collaboration with Spyderco or Benchmade. And it's a known fact that Spyderco has been trying to break on the fixed blade market for some time. Well they have had some knives, but not really anything huge that can be a legend in it's own right.
 
I have used 440C before, and I thought it performed great. I would be very satisfied with that.
 
Well let's look at probably one of the most recognizable knives that are meant for salt water usage too and doesn't have the rust-proof steel like H1, ATS-34 or what ever else is there. If you're still reading after that murder of a sentence up there, I'm talking about the SOG SEAL line.

It's made from AUS-8 stainless steel, and apparently it works. Now someone please correct me if I'm wrong but 440C should be comparable to AUS-10, i.e. better than AUS-8.
So that should be able to work. Unless I screwed up the steels.
 
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