Esee mods. Scandi grind.

A

Atkins72

Joined
Nov 6, 2012
Messages
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Anyone ever put a Scandi grind or any other edge mod to an esee? I have a 4 I am thinking about tinkering with.

I really like my other Scandi knives. Mainly using for bushcraft or camping related tasks.
 
Uhh...you can't really put a scandi grind on a knife that's already a full flat grind. Metal only comes off--it doesn't go back on. :o
 
Forgive me I don't know a lot about this. I'm still learning.

For my purposes a Scandi grind has proven more useful than a flat grind with a secondary.

My father made a custom kydex sheath for this knife so I am s little partial towards it. But as it is I have other knives that are more functional, namely a mora and a bush monkey( don't care or want to hear what you think of him or his knives.)

I want to mod this esee in a way that makes it functional for me.

Maybe a convex would be better?
 
Atkins72 said:
Forgive me I don't know a lot about this. I'm still learning.

For my purposes a Scandi grind has proven more useful than a flat grind with a secondary.

My father made a custom kydex sheath for this knife so I am s little partial towards it. But as it is I have other knives that are more functional, namely a mora and a bush monkey( don't care or want to hear what you think of him or his knives.)

I want to mod this esee in a way that makes it functional for me.

Maybe a convex would be better?
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Why is it not working for you? I imagine you probably get strong results from the scandis on account of doing lots of carving? If so, try thinning out your edge angle on the ESEE and you should be fine.
 
Yeah you can't really do the scandi on an esee. My advice is the same as 42B. Send it to a knifemaker that will charge you about 15 bucks plus shipping to thin and convex the edge. It will be a different knife when you get it back.
 
Why don't you just reduce the edge angle?

Also, what is it about the knife that isn't 'functional' enough? What problems have you run into when you're using it?
 
I just reduced the edge angle on a 3 and am very happy with it. It was never meant to be a "chop down a redwood" knife and I don't use it as such, so the reduced angle 15 degrees) doesn't bother me.
 
Gaspumps said:
I just reduced the edge angle on a 3 and am very happy with it. It was never meant to be a "chop down a redwood" knife and I don't use it as such, so the reduced angle 15 degrees) doesn't bother me.
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That's the problem I encounter with "tactical" knives. The main reason I buy customs is so that I don't have to fix the edge on a new knife. I'm tired of fixing knives.
 
The edge angle on ESEEs is usually the industry standard 20 degrees per side. I just like to keep mine down around 15. The edge holds up fine and cutting ability drastically increases.
 
Dorito Monk said:
Why don't you just reduce the edge angle?

Also, what is it about the knife that isn't 'functional' enough? What problems have you run into when you're using it?
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It's not that I had great trouble using it for bushcraft tasks, like fire prep, splitting small pcs, shelter building and so on.

It works. But not near as well as my Scandi ground knives like my bush monkey.

Right now when I am heading out to camp or run my trap line I grab the knife I am most confident in, and that is not the esee. But I want it to be.

That I'd why I'm looking at modding it.
 
If you don't enjoy your Esee, why not just sell it and keep using the ones you do enjoy? Esee knives keep their value, especially if you haven't enjoyed it and therefor haven't used it much.
 
Grease said:
If you don't enjoy your Esee, why not just sell it and keep using the ones you do enjoy? Esee knives keep their value, especially if you haven't enjoyed it and therefor haven't used it much.
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It had some sentiment attached to it and a custom kydex sheath my father made.

I don't like having gear I don't use and since I don't want to sell it I'm left with modding it.
 
The only mod that I think that is practical on an ESEE is changing handle scales. I see no reason at all to modify the blade on an ESEE.
 
thinning the edge - especially by raising the shoulders on the secondary grind, or by putting a shallow convex on the edge should do well for what you want the knife to do.
I also agree with 42B about changing the secondary bevel from 20 to 15 degrees. (typical for a scandi is 12.5 degrees)
stripping the coating will also go a long ways towards making the knife "slicier" -- and that may be all the modification tyhe knife needs to be able to do what you want.
as a suggestion, when you go to strip the blade, remove the scales and cover the handle area with painter's tape to keep the stripper off - that weill reduce the chance of rusting under the scales in the future. (or strip the whole thing then epoxy the scales back on for the same result)

good luck and don't forget to post pics.
 
Atkins72 said:
Can someone explain in detail what you mean by raising the shoulders?
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I don't really know what they meant... I thought the shoulders were the top of the grind, but the 4 is a flat grind. The shoulders are already at the top :confused:
 
Atkins72 said:
Can someone explain in detail what you mean by raising the shoulders?
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where the primary and secondary bevels meet are called shoulders.
primary grind is the wide bevel that determines full flat, saber, hollow, or scandi grind.
Scandi has no secondary bevel, flat, hollow, and saber all do -- that's the part you grind on when sharpening.
On a convex, the secondary grind blends into the primary at a curve -- in cross section it looks like an appleseed.

raising the shoulder can be done easiest by going with a shallower secondary grind (15 degrees on a side rather than the factory 20) or convexing.
 
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