Etch and Strip Threads Resource

resinguy

resinguy

Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
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Just wanted to throw this out there….

Please do not etch your strippers guys, there is evidence that it actually harms the steel. Why risk it just to keep/preserve some logo? There is a reason Busse uses laser engraving, rather than roll stamping (also harms the steel) or other methods.
 
Just etched and stripped two blades yesterday.
Actually they've been etched and I just stripped them yesterday.
What kind of damage?
 
Lance23 said:
Just etched and stripped two blades yesterday.
Actually they've been etched and I just stripped them yesterday.
What kind of damage?
Click to expand...

Hydrogen embrittlement along with other chemical reactions. You can do some research on the subject yourself, I'm not here to convince anybody mainly just putting this out there for all to decide for themselves.
 
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Maggot Brain said:
Just wanted to throw this out there….

Please do not etch your strippers guys, there is evidence that it actually harms the steel. Why risk it just to keep/preserve some logo? There is a reason Busse uses laser engraving, rather than roll stamping (also harms the steel) or other methods.
Click to expand...


Interesting, links please?

AFAIK, there are some makers who etch their logo
 
All the strippers I've done in the past were done with plain old automotive acrylic thinners. I let the knife soak in it for 10mins or so then get to it with a plastic scraper and a wire brush. An old tooth brush will work if you're precious about marking the steel, just keep in mind the thinners will probably melt it.

tumblr_nkxpp28ThM1siuc9oo3_1280.jpg


tumblr_n5dxmxrFi41siuc9oo1_1280.jpg


tumblr_n2vppf4B2i1siuc9oo5_1280.jpg
 
Maggot Brain said:
Hydrogen embrittlement along with other chemical reactions. You can do some research on the subject yourself, I'm not here to convince anybody mainly just putting this out there for all to decide for themselves.
Click to expand...
Just some additional thoughts.
I heard that hydrogen embrittlement happens only with electro etching and only close to the very surface of the etch.
Deepening the etch and thus maybe creating a stress riser could be more of an issue.
Roll stamps are also deeper than laser etch. Is this increased depth the reason for roll stamps being an issue on occasion or is it more of a grain pattern change thing or something else?
What does the heat of the laser do to the metal around the logo (I assume it's done after HT)?

If the increased depth of the etch poses no danger but one doesn't want to risk electro or chemical etching one could maybe deepen the logo by following it a few times with a vibra pen?
 
Thanks Aias. Great info on that thread. One question on sandpaper. Standard wood OK, or do we want Emery cloth?...;-)
 
Maggot Brain said:
Hydrogen embrittlement along with other chemical reactions. You can do some research on the subject yourself, I'm not here to convince anybody mainly just putting this out there for all to decide for themselves.
Click to expand...


Any follow up with links? Let's not scare the piglets without some real data. You must have something, or else you wouldn't have mentioned it.



Anyway, I bumped this thread for more chances for folks to post helpful links before this sinks to oblivion....
 
Good call... I'll happily add to it soon... I have a CG SOB on the way and plan to strip it. I stripped the blade on my GW and found the under its black coating, the decarb was ridiculously easy to remove when compared to it under the tanker grey... Does anyone know if that was an anomaly, or is one coating/decarb easier than another? Thanks--
 
And...would INFI be best smoothed out - scratches and such - with Emery cloth? Thanks...;-)
 
I use a cloth wheel on my bench grinder with green compound to finish up. It isn't perfect, but good enough for me...

wahsvm.jpg

wr2iw.jpg
 
The Tanker gray is the only coating I order new blades in and it is a B to get off, the decarb underneath as well.

My Rucki and BG ASH are both now Nekkid and the Rucki still needs a new edge.
But I'm very pleased with the results.



 
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Aias said:
nice job!
Click to expand...

Thanks!
I've found that 00 steel wool with some Mothers mag polish works great once the decarb is mostly gone.
On the Rucki that's all I've done after stripping, a long hour or two of rubbing..rubbing..rubbing, still not where I want it.

The 3M 3000 grit trizact "sandpaper" works really well at restoring the finish after use.
I've even found 5000 grit polishing cloth made similarly that gets a true mirror, with patience.

Patience is the key in the process of a good Strip&etch.
 
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