Etching a makers mark, is 180 DPI enough?

Hengelo_77

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I'm finaly getting in to etching a makers mark.
I've seen a Brother P700 label printer that can print one way etching stencils @ 180 DPI
It prints pictures and/or text

I make small to medium sized knives, so my makers mark isn't to big.

Is 180 DPI fine enough?
 
Definitely not enough! I experienced with similar label printer and results were too coarse. If You would like to make stencil Yourself try to find "screenprint" on YT. You need at least 200T mesh canvas to get good result. Or You can use "my way", try to use dry film for making PCB.
 
Or You can use "my way", try to use dry film for making PCB.
OK, how do you use dry film for etching a blade? I've done etching using toner transfer for making PCB boards. Do you iron the dry film to the blade leaving the parts to etch open, just the reverse of etching a PCB?
 
I tried one of the Brother 180 dpi stencil printers, it was an absolute disaster. The resolution wasn't the problem - it was the stencil itself; they definitely cannot handle an etch of any significant time/voltage.
 
OK, how do you use dry film for etching a blade? I've done etching using toner transfer for making PCB boards. Do you iron the dry film to the blade leaving the parts to etch open, just the reverse of etching a PCB?
I do like make stencils myself. I tried several methods including toner transfer with bad results. As a best of them I see dry film because of cost of it. Yes, I need computer, printer, UV light, etc. but PC and printer I already have and other parts are really cheap (1m of dry film cost about 5€ and can be made few hundred stencils from it). I tested several types of dry film too and according to my experience green one is better than blue one. If You use green one You don't need iron it on steel and You don't need to use sodium hydroxide too. Only chemicals You need are washing soda and saline. You need some practice for place it without water spray (what I use only on bigger stencils). Best results are on polished surfaces, starting from grit #400 are usable results. Dry film is "negative" that mean what You cover with mask that will be etched. It is good for custom logo, just make Your B/W graphic (positive) in some software, print it on foil and You are ready to etch. In this video is all You need to understand how to use it. Unfortunately, it's in Russian but You don't need understand it, just watch as I did it. If You have any other questions ask Me.

 
Has anyone tried one of the vinyl stencil cutters? They seem ideal for the task. "Silhouette" is the brand I have seen.
 
Surely. On our local knife forum few knifemakers do that. Usually they use simple logo to mark their blades. But one of them use vinyl stickers to make really nice etchings. Sometimes they are funny. Look here, here, here, here, here.
 
A friendly fellow knife maker is sending me a few stencils printed on a simular Brother printer to try out (also 180 dpi)
I'll post the results here, good or bad
 
Jesenius: That's interesting. They sure get some good looking marks. Do you use the stencil with the electro-chemical etch? OR - does the chemical make the mark? Do you have a link to some of that dry film?
 
Do you use the stencil with the electro-chemical etch?
Yes, I do. If You like to see some of them look in My profile.
OR - does the chemical make the mark?
I'm not sure if I fully understand the question. If You are asking about it can handle chemical-only etching then yes, it is made for.
Do you have a link to some of that dry film?
I bought them on eBay. First time I bought blue film from China. It was poor quality with non-consistent thickness (but still usable). Second one (green) I bought from Sweden, I think it was this one. And last time I bought one from Slovakia (I am from Slovakia too) so it was "local buy" and fast delivery. This one looks blue-ish on picture but it is green-ish. :) Both green films work great.
 
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Looks like you answered all my questions, you're using with electro-etch which is what I use, but with a different type of stencil. the link works nicely and I see exactly what you've got. Thanks. Ken H>
 
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