Etching Help

colu41

colu41

Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Messages
1,598
So I got all my etching supplies in and setup. Did a couple practice etches and seemed to be working ok. So I figured no better practice then on a knife with the correct steel so, here goes. I did everything to the T. Instantly spray with neutralizer, and still got this. Where the stencil is on the blade, it leaves a haze all around it. The etch comes out great, but these browning marks are not coming out with even scotchbrite. Any tips on preventing this? I dont even understand how its happening. I am going to have to grind the etches completely out, more than likely to get rid of that discoloring.

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Your pad was too wet. It needs to be barely damp. I blot mine on a folded paper towel until it does not show any wet spot ... then etch with it.

if it is too wet, the electrolyte gets between the stencil and the blade and makes haze and blotches as the current flows through it.

Those haze marks will usually remove with light sanding with the last grit paper used.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Your pad was too wet. It needs to be barely damp. I blot mine on a folded paper towel until it does not show any wet spot ... then etch with it.

if it is too wet, the electrolyte gets between the stencil and the blade and makes haze and blotches as the current flows through it.

Those haze marks will usually remove with light sanding with the last grit paper used.
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Damn. I thought I had everything figured out on the first try. Lol. Thanks Stacy. I'll try it out again.
 
Few more questions. How do you know when a stencil is no longer good to use?
And how do you go about cleaning it after each use?
 
Rinse well with running water and pat dry between two paper towels. Hang to dry and store in a paper envelope. A stencil is no good when it starts missing letters or making marks you don't want. They last a long time unless you burn it up with too high voltage or something.
 
To reduce hazing, I oil the steel and wipe the oil off. Then I spray windex on the steel and shake off the excess. Then I mark, and use windex again to wash off the electrolyte.

Edit - then I briefly scrub with a fine stainless steel brush, rinse in water, dunk in Rustlick "B", wipe dry, then dry in a toaster oven @ 250°F. The stainless steel brush step is critical, otherwise the hazing seems to become 'baked on'.
 
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Excellent! Appreciate the quick reasonse. Haven't had any issues that a light sanding won't take out but I'll definitely try the oil to see if it knocks the ghosting down a bit.
 
I've got the hazing nearly eliminated now. So I feel semi comfortable with it. But now the problem I'm having is the actual mark is turning to a brown almost rust color rather than black. Am I marking to long?
 
What electrolyte are you using? What voltages and times are you using for the etch and mark cycles?
 
Im using the solution that the etchomatic came with. Its 10volts I believe. I do (3) 5 second intervals when etching. And then the same when mark. It comes out nice and dark, its just dark brown, and not black. Should I just try out other etching solutions?
 
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