Etching Issues

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Jun 23, 2008
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I've got an irritating etching issue (say that fast three times:) ) When I electrically etch my blades, I get inconsistent results even though I have gotten very specific to do the same things every time. Attached is a photo of the last three I've done. The top two are 01, the bottom is 440C. The 440C, and ATS-34, Ive used all etch outstandingly, beautiful, crisp, dark etch that stays with it. I have had only a fraction of the 01 blades turn out that well. They all etch, but some loose the darkening, some get a little hazy, many, like the middle blade, are crisp lines but "gravely" inside and won't take darkening. I am using the etchant that IMG sent me that is supposed to be for blade steels. At the time, I told them I was only using carbon steel/alloys but it seems to work better on SS???

Here is my basic procedure- clean the blade with acetone/MEK, lay the stencil on with a dampening of moisture to help hold it in place, dampen the pad with etchant, do three cycles of 4 secs of each polarity, wash the blade off, polish the area with wet 2000 grit to crisp the edges. Sometimes the magic works, sometimes it don't...

Any suggestions?
 

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With my 'Personaliser' I also make sure to do everything the same each time as far as I can. The one variable that I find hardest to control is the 'wetness' of the contact pad. Perhaps it's this that's causing your problems ?
 
I've got an irritating etching issue (say that fast three times:) ) When I electrically etch my blades, I get inconsistent results even though I have gotten very specific to do the same things every time. Attached is a photo of the last three I've done. The top two are 01, the bottom is 440C. The 440C, and ATS-34, Ive used all etch outstandingly, beautiful, crisp, dark etch that stays with it. I have had only a fraction of the 01 blades turn out that well. They all etch, but some loose the darkening, some get a little hazy, many, like the middle blade, are crisp lines but "gravely" inside and won't take darkening. I am using the etchant that IMG sent me that is supposed to be for blade steels. At the time, I told them I was only using carbon steel/alloys but it seems to work better on SS???

Here is my basic procedure- clean the blade with acetone/MEK, lay the stencil on with a dampening of moisture to help hold it in place, dampen the pad with etchant, do three cycles of 4 secs of each polarity, wash the blade off, polish the area with wet 2000 grit to crisp the edges. Sometimes the magic works, sometimes it don't...

Any suggestions?

I havent done stainless, but etch in 01 with no problems. I etch deep, and probably do a good 5-10 5 second bursts before I am done....
 
Seems like 3 x 4 secs is too short a time. I etch...perhaps...10 times for 8-10 seconds and get good results on high carbon steel...O1 and 1095
 
I use the Personalizer . Be careful don't press to hard or you press the chemical under the stencil, It will etch under the stencil. I personally don't like "my etch" to stand out. I go to great pains to subdue mine. I put mine on then sand it so the black come out of the mark. I want it there. But I don't want it to take away from the knife.
 
Bubba,

Ya got to remember.... You first etch on DC (reverse polarity). You are taking metal "out through the stencil". The longer (more times you etch), the deeper the etch will be.

THEN...... when you switch to AC, you are taking a little out and putting a little back (back and forth with those little electrical things @ 60 cycles per second). What you are putting back is "oxide". That black oxide will "rub-out", depending on how much you work on it after etching (as in a scotch brite finish after etching.

Its all about how deep the etch is on DC, and how much "rubbin' " you do after you etch with AC.

R. D.
 
I am no expert at all on this but I have to agree with the fellow that said about the amount of dampness to the pad. I have found blotting the pad after wetting in come cases seems to even it out more.
Not sure where you got your stencils but, here is one man that sells the stencils and has answered a ton of questions I had when I first started using a stencil.

http://www.erniesknives.com/
 
I use an Etch-O-Matic and have for years. I see two big differences in our procedures. From your original post, you "clean the blade with acetone/MEK, lay the stencil on with a dampening of moisture to help hold it in place". I clean my blades, any type of steel, with Ivory soap, rinse and dry completely, and hold my stencil in place, dry, with a bit of scotch tape in several places, at least 2. You might try that on a test piece of steel and see if it makes a difference. Good luck.
 
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