etching logos just came in

samuraistuart

samuraistuart

Joined
Dec 21, 2006
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Just received some logo's from Ernie. WOW. I am surprised how much detail there can be in such a small image! I am a tad confused....and about to really show how ignorant I am (well....some of you KNOW that already). I thought the stencil would be "cut out", but it is a black image on a transparent (translucent) sheet, and there are a couple of brown sheets with gold logos. Am I correct to assume that the image is "eaten away" once the etching is started?
 
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The black on clear is to help you figure out how to place your logo on the actual blade. The gold on brown is the actual stencil. You'll want to make sure it lays flat and secure on the blade before etching. I tape mine down to hold them very flat and very still.

And no... nothing bad happens to the stencil when you use it. You can use it many times before it is used up.
 
Be careful though with an etcher you can burn up the stencil if you leave the pad on it for too long. What I do is just "tap the stencil working across it several times as I do it, and yeah like tryppyr said best practice it seems is to tape the edges to the blade.
 
You need to practice on some steel things in your shop first and count off the seconds you hold the etching pad on the steel like one thousand one, one thousand two and so on until by trial and error you get a good etch and a good mark. DC current etches the steel and AC current fills the etch with black junk so you can see it. I started by etching my logo on my ball peen hammer and then every other steel tool in my shop for practice. My friends thought I was paranoid or possessive when they saw my tools all etched...I just laughed because I finally got down the right etch/mark time for my etching machine. At 24 volts I can get a nice etch at about 5 seconds each for etch and mark but some guys go longer for a deep etch. Don't etch your knives until you know what will happen.
 
Thanks for the advice gentlemen! I'm used to making my own stencils, carefully cutting out a design from painter's tape, and using a DC current (from my cordless drill). When I saw that the logos themselves were not "cut out", but an actual image printed on the sheet, I thought there might be an extra step I was missing. But a suppose the design indeed becomes etched in the blade even though it isn't "cut out". I will most assuredly practice first on scrap steel. I never have switched to A/C current to darken the image. Been impressed with just how the DC turns out.
 
Do a search for Brian Fellhoelter's video on etching - he's got the best technique I've seen. Works flawlessly. If you do it right, you'll only need to tape one side of the stencil down.
Also, rather than using AC to provide a dark etch, consider using instant gun blue. After I've etched and neutralized, I apply the bluing with the tip of a q-tip, let it dry, neutralize, then go back over with sandpaper with a hard backing. Provides excellent contrast.
 
Matthew.....damn good idea using gun blue. I'll check out Brian's video right now after I search for it. Birchwood Casey used to make a gun blue pen, I think they still do.
 
Yes they still make it. it comes in a white tube. It's a blue paste like substance. We use it here at work in the check fixture shop.

Jay
 
I had the same question when mine came in. I contacted Ernie and found that there is no cut out.

After reading up on it here is what I learned: The stencil material is actually a mesh covered with a photopolymer. The developing process removes this blocking material where your logo is and leaves just the mesh, which is permeable by your etchant.

There was a thread some time ago where someone was experimenting with screen printing techniques to make their own sheets of stencils and you can see in that where he started with a screen and then spread his photopolymer on it. You can get a good idea of the mechanics behind your stencils from how he made his:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...on-Stencils-*Added-Photopolymer-and-Results!*
 
Question about the gun blue. It says it provides an excellent blue finish then says except on stainless. Has anyone used it on stainless and if so what are the results? I did an etch on ATS 34 that didn't darken for me and I'd consider using that but not sure about how it would perform on stainless
 
That's a fast etch on that video. You guys probably wouldn't believe me when I tell you how long it takes me to etch a stencil. I could easily spend a half hour doing it. I clip a Q-tip in my alligator clamp and briefly " tap" the stencil over and over to get a deep etch. Going to use the windex technique next time though.
 
Perhaps a better etcher is in your future... I would think you'll run the risk of screwing it up by having to repeat the same procedure over and over for that long.

There's tons of plans available, and it's cheap enough to do. Chris Crawford's design is what I'm using. Easy!
 
I built a Chris Crawford one, although I never put the pad on I just left the two alligator clamps I use the Q-tip as my pad, I dampen it with my home made solution (vinegar and salt) at use dab the stencil with it.
 
The biggest problem with most home brew etchers isn't the power source...it is the pad. Buy of make a proper pad with a felt cover over a carbon electrode and you will see wonders in improvement. A Q-tip isn't a conductor, so the only current flow goes through the damp cotton. This requires much more liquid tan is optimal for etching, which leads to sloppy etches. A proper etching pad is just barely damp with etchant and marks fast and crisply.
 
I'd also like to point out that the DC etching solution mentioned my Brian in his video is well worth the money - much better than the others I tried. TUS Tech is a good company to deal with, too.
 
I get my stencils from Tus Tech and they work and last very long. You have to get with the program and get a real pad as Stacy has mentioned and solution is worth its weight in gold to like Matt said . Sometimes you have to spend the money to get the right stuff. I use Brian's technique and I have never ruined a stencil or had a problem getting a great mark.
So if you want to get your moneys worth out of those stencils just follow the advice given here and you will be well on your way.
 
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