Etching makers mark induces rust

[Randy3000]

So i etched my very first mark. It's the outline of texas with my initials inside it. I did several practice pieces until i felt confortable doing a freshly ground blade. I used a 9volt battery with aluminum foil "wires" and lemon juice mixed with a little salt. The etch came out ok, not laser precise of course, but it's serviceable. I cleaned up with acetone and alcohol both, then sanded a bit with 1200 grit and then repolished the area. The next morning the area around the etching was covered in a fine dark brown rust. The steel was 1095. Did i not clean it good enough or do i have to use some oil after etching?

 

[KnuckleDownKnives]

So i etched my very first mark. It's the outline of texas with my initials inside it. I did several practice pieces until i felt confortable doing a freshly ground blade. I used a 9volt battery with aluminum foil "wires" and lemon juice mixed with a little salt. The etch came out ok, not laser precise of course, but it's serviceable. I cleaned up with acetone and alcohol both, then sanded a bit with 1200 grit and then repolished the area. The next morning the area around the etching was covered in a fine dark brown rust. The steel was 1095. Did i not clean it good enough or do i have to use some oil after etching?

I've never used lemon juice mixed with salt, I just have a jar with a cup of water in it and one teaspoon of salt. I clean liberally with windex. I get a very fine etch and never ant rust and don't always oil it right away. I suspect you didn't get the etching solution neutralized.

 

[Randy3000]

Windex! I'm such a fool i forgot to neutralize the acid

 

[kuraki]

You need amonia to neutralize the salts, Windex like Marc said, or I polish my marks with a blue cream polish that has an ammonia carrier as well as a surface protectant, so just buffing a bit of that with a cloth does everything in one step, removes the oxides, neutralize any salt or acid, leaves a corrosion resistant film.

 

[KnuckleDownKnives]

You need amonia to neutralize the salts, Windex like Marc said, or I polish my marks with a blue cream polish that has an ammonia carrier as well as a surface protectant, so just buffing a bit of that with a cloth does everything in one step, removes the oxides, neutralize any salt or acid, leaves a corrosion resistant film.

What is this blue cream you speak of? I like the sounds of this stuff..

 

[kuraki]

I found a picture. I got it when I was experimenting with hamon polishing. It's a lot like Simichrome I suppose. The only thing I always use it for is polishing etched marks. It'll clean oxides without really affecting a satin hand rubbed blade for example. Sometimes it's useful for hamon. Cheap and got it at Walmart.