Etching question

Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Messages
176
Hi all!
I have been using a dc remote control car battery charger to etch my mark into AEB-L. This works well but i am not getting the darkening from the ac. Is there an affordable ac charger that wont convert to dc? i think this is ac/ac? I wish i could afford one of the supply house etching machines but cant with Santa coming.
thanks for any help!!!!! mike
 
Many low cost power supplies have both AC and DC output. Look in Amazon and ebay. They are ofte0- 30V at up to10 amp output.

An alternative is to add a bypass switch (DPDT) to your present power supply that bypasses the bridge rectifier. This will change the output from DC to AC.
 
Thanks! if I cant find the supply you mention ill see if i can add that switch. no idea how to do that but that's what youtube is for
 
Many low cost power supplies have both AC and DC output. Look in Amazon and ebay. They are ofte0- 30V at up to10 amp output.

An alternative is to add a bypass switch (DPDT) to your present power supply that bypasses the bridge rectifier. This will change the output from DC to AC.
With the low cost power supply options? are you saying the ones you are referring to are outputs of Both AC and DC on the same unit?

I just don't see any, unless I am not looking up the right phrase?
I have logo sheets ordered, but I need to figure this part out Soon.
Thanks.
 
Making an AC etcher is way simpler than thought. 50-60Hz is best for etching so nothing has to be changed in that department. For a nice etch low A are needed. 0.3A or lower should be fine. In a 110V system all is needed is a plug, 2 wires, 300Ohm resistor and wire clamps by choice. If electricity is not something to fiddle with, don't do it. If you're cool with it, go for it. Adding a switch is per choice as it's enough to plug in and unplug. I use a variac and a variable resistor for etching and marking.
But, as always if possible go pro. Get a proper machine.
 
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Making an AC etcher is way simpler than thought. 50-60Hz is best for etching so nothing has to be changed in that department. For a nice etch low A are needed. 0.3A or lower should be fine. In a 110V system all is needed is a plug, 2 wires, 300Ohm resistor and wire clamps by choice. If electricity is not something to fiddle with, don't do it. If you're cool with it, go for it. Adding a switch is per choice as it's enough to plug in and unplug. I use a variac and a variable resistor for etching and marking.
But, as always if possible go pro. Get a proper machine.
Not simple on bladeforums.com , my friend :) I get in deep trouble when I ask why people give over 350 $ for empty box / *Personalizer Plus* / when they can buy or make one for 30 $ 🤣

 
Not simple on bladeforums.com , my friend :) I get in deep trouble when I ask why people give over 350 $ for empty box / *Personalizer Plus* / when they can buy or make one for 30 $ 🤣
It's a choice. If one has money plug and play is a way to go. Making knives is the job, not making machines for knife making. But if it's a budget thing then handymanian approach rules. DIY can be dirt cheap.
 
I thought I read about guys switching the wires (reversing polarity?) on their DC unit to blacken the etch, but I am not sure?

I made my own etcher own using a AC/DC power supply (like from a school or lab). I just swap the wires from the AC side to the DC side. I bought DPDT switches, but never bothered to use them. Model Train Transformers use DC for the train speed and often have AC outputs for the accessories for the train. I can actually etch jimping with my setup in hardened steel!

S9bAp7Q.jpg

qMWLq0u.jpg
 
Hey all I just wanted to thank everyone again. this has been really helpful and is going to save me a lot of money
I just wish I had more definitive showing of what works best....?

I want professional results. I've tried 9v batteries, heck in series. I didn't like it.
I can't find old battery chargers. I accidently bought a new and improved one (which faults out) thanks!
old train transformers only Sometimes include AC output. and are expensive antiques now.
Power supplies too are usually just DC, or just AC
So scraping something together is going to take some work and luck to find just the right stuff.


spending too much for a "pro unit"..... still spending over a hundred and totally building one yourself from a youtube video...... or lucking out with something free and magical.

Those are what we have as options.
 
I thought I read about guys switching the wires (reversing polarity?) on their DC unit to blacken the etch, but I am not sure?

I made my own etcher own using a AC/DC power supply (like from a school or lab). I just swap the wires from the AC side to the DC side. I bought DPDT switches, but never bothered to use them. Model Train Transformers use DC for the train speed and often have AC outputs for the accessories for the train. I can actually etch jimping with my setup in hardened steel!

S9bAp7Q.jpg

qMWLq0u.jpg
Like it ! How long it take to etch jimping ?
 
One handyman approach is to break an old phone charger and use it for AC and /or DC work. 5V and 1A is sufficient for it. Tho marking will work faster than etching. But we want marking more. :)
Switching polarity on DC after etaching will do also marking .I wonder would it be same durability as AC marking ? I try that /must be used same pads with what was etach done/ But I have no idea is it same quality ?
 
About 3-4 minutes of 10-15 second cycles. It gums up the felt pad pretty bad too since it is removing so much metal.
what was your screen?

I've tried nail polish, but that sucked.... for lettering at least
 
Switching polarity on DC after etaching will do also marking .I wonder would it be same durability as AC marking ? I try that /must be used same pads with what was etach done/ But I have no idea is it same quality ?
It isn't. Depositing oxidized particles is less durable than oxidizing in situ. And AC doesn't change thickness. Doesn't mean that DC will not make it good. One could consider plating if reverse polarity is a choice.
 
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