Tom Militano
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- Feb 27, 1999
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What do you etch your titanium in? I found some stuff from Reactive Metals for $28.76, but some of you must use something cheaper. Thanks.
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Etching Titanium
- Thread starter Tom Militano
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- Dec 10, 1998
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- 4,860
Tom,
I use a mixture of TSP and distilled water. Some have also tried coke soda with mixed results.
I use a mixture of TSP and distilled water. Some have also tried coke soda with mixed results.
Tom Militano
BANNED
- Joined
- Feb 27, 1999
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- 1,160
I use the same thing to anodize. I didn't really make myself clear when I posted the question. What I was trying to ask is what do you use to prepare your titanium for anodizing? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 1998
- Messages
- 4,860
Tom,
The stuff that reactive metals sells is a cleaner that also helps get brighter colors. From what I hear it helps you get colors like green that are at a higher voltage. I don't use it. The better the finish that you have on your TI the better colors you will get. I mirror polish the edges, filework or not and I make sure that it is clean, no fingerprints or buffing compound. Just wipe it down with gloves on before you anodize and it should be fine. I also find that the colors that I see as soon as it comes out of the bath are not the colors I end up with. If it looks dark blue coming out, after it is rinsed and dried it looks like a bright blue, a little lighter. Just experiment. I guess that you could wipe it down with acetone, but that would also remove the nail polish that covers the detent ball.
The stuff that reactive metals sells is a cleaner that also helps get brighter colors. From what I hear it helps you get colors like green that are at a higher voltage. I don't use it. The better the finish that you have on your TI the better colors you will get. I mirror polish the edges, filework or not and I make sure that it is clean, no fingerprints or buffing compound. Just wipe it down with gloves on before you anodize and it should be fine. I also find that the colors that I see as soon as it comes out of the bath are not the colors I end up with. If it looks dark blue coming out, after it is rinsed and dried it looks like a bright blue, a little lighter. Just experiment. I guess that you could wipe it down with acetone, but that would also remove the nail polish that covers the detent ball.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 1999
- Messages
- 716
Tom, I use the multi-etch from reactive metals. The price is a little steep but the results are worth it.
It comes as a powder that you dissolve in distilled water. Directions read that you have to mix the whole gallon, as the powder ingredients may not be evenly distributed. I didn't want to mess with this so I mixed the whole thing and use only a few ounces heated in a shallow glass dish. The used portion gets discarded after a few uses. I heat it to 140 F and dip parts for 5 seconds. Longer and it starts to mildly etch the surface. This can be good for a matte finish but it dulls jewelling and more polished finishes.
The good news is that my solution is a couple of years old and still works fine when the shelf life is rated at one year if memory serves. So in the end $30 isn't bad for a couple of years of product.
It comes as a powder that you dissolve in distilled water. Directions read that you have to mix the whole gallon, as the powder ingredients may not be evenly distributed. I didn't want to mess with this so I mixed the whole thing and use only a few ounces heated in a shallow glass dish. The used portion gets discarded after a few uses. I heat it to 140 F and dip parts for 5 seconds. Longer and it starts to mildly etch the surface. This can be good for a matte finish but it dulls jewelling and more polished finishes.
The good news is that my solution is a couple of years old and still works fine when the shelf life is rated at one year if memory serves. So in the end $30 isn't bad for a couple of years of product.