- Joined
- Oct 2, 2010
- Messages
- 221
forge is not always better than stock removal. forging can offer some advantage if doing right on right type of steel. however by forging it also means you have to give up the fine annealled quality coming out from steel mill. blade manufacturer usually do not have the technique level of the steel mill in both men(women) and equiptment.
and if you want a heirloom quality blade, i strongly suggest you get a custom ordered blade. the thickness of european swords keep me concerned for a long time.TOO THIN!!! a lot of modern day european sword are directly copyed from the museum pieces. for example, many viking blades i have seen have the thickness of 5~2.5mm from hilt to tip. but this thickness is the result of repeat sharpening, polishing and years of oxidizing. i personally assume the historical thickness of the sword would be a little bit higher when she was acctrully wielded in a shield wall. 6~3.5mm from hilt to tip for a norman/viking swords is more acceptable imo.
and if you want a heirloom quality blade, i strongly suggest you get a custom ordered blade. the thickness of european swords keep me concerned for a long time.TOO THIN!!! a lot of modern day european sword are directly copyed from the museum pieces. for example, many viking blades i have seen have the thickness of 5~2.5mm from hilt to tip. but this thickness is the result of repeat sharpening, polishing and years of oxidizing. i personally assume the historical thickness of the sword would be a little bit higher when she was acctrully wielded in a shield wall. 6~3.5mm from hilt to tip for a norman/viking swords is more acceptable imo.